Chevy Cruze Pioneer Sound System

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

i have the rockford pbr300x4 right now and its great. if you pull the drivers side console floor panel there is a block of foam i cut out and the amp just sits there ever so nicely. the amp retails for like 270 and is nice but its not 2ohm stable and im swapping it for something else here shortly.

im not sure what happens to the upper screen when u install a new deck mine isnt in yet but if you found some literature on that please do share

and i wouldnt run more than 1500w on the stock alt which is 130amp mainly cause of the cars voltage controls. i did find out the ea alt will make a 200amp upgrade for 525 though and a voltage regulator for 130.

and i manged to fit a 36x17x10 box back there and maintain the majority of my trunk and thats roughly 2.5 cubes of space which is plenty for 2 tens of 2 space hungry twelve

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

I vote for the alpine mrpf300 for the 4ch, I've had one for 2.5yrs with 0 issues so far, mounted under my driver's seat. It runs a little warm, but that's typical of ab class amps.

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

the alpine is nice and prolly better than this rockford i have really good for the money imo

 

[Wingman0121 10+ year member]

I haven't run into any premium factory sound system that can beat a typical aftermarket system that's set up correctly.

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

Trick is setting it up right. Some of the new jbl systems are hard to beat for the time and money invested but I still have to agree with u. I at the very least amp my factory highs to get them a bit louder and cut anything below 80hz.

 

[ljcool_17 10+ year member]

I'm a lil disappointed after finding out the MRP-F300 is Class AB, means it'll heat up a bit. But oh well it seems to be a very good amp as a lot of people like it. Just not sure if it's a good idea to place it under the floor. If it was Class-D I wouldn't mind.

I'm also considering getting the MRP-M1000 instead of the MRP-M500 for the two sa10's, as you were right to suggest that the MRP-M500 might not be enough to push the two subs.

I've yet to find someone who has installed the Metra kit and harness to find out how it's gonna look and how the upper screen would function after installation.

So far I'm trying to do the math as how much power I'll be needing :\. Probly gonna need to hook another battery.

Here is the setup so far:

INA-W910 -headunit

SPX-17REF -front component

SPR-60 -fullrange

SA-10 x2 -sub

MRP-M1000 -mono amp

MRP-F300 -4ch amp

Do you think I still need to purchase Alpine's IMPRINT audio processor?

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

I honestly like your picks and I have yet to see another cruze with a system in it but metra has a vid on YouTube giving you a glance of the kit.

Personally I don't like alpines speakers. They won't produce much bass especially if u haven't deadened the doors and sealed the doors. But the again I'm still rocking stock so idk how they will sound in the cruze.

I would still get the imprint if you like to tweak things but otherwise it's just an extra inexperienced ears won't miss it's a big must for me. I'm waiting in the new h800 to come out from alpine

I'd ditch the back door speakers to save some coin as you don't ride their so why pay extra. Leave them stock.

And definitely put at least 1000w two 2 sa subs u don't have to have all alpine

And to be on the safe side I recommend a knukonceptz 1/0 gauge dual amp kit and s small batt lik the xspower d1200 and u should be good.

P.s. Your voltage won't go up pass 13.8 unless you are hitting the brakes so watch ur voltage drop anything below 12v is dangerous to your equip. You can get a regulator to fix this though.

 

[ljcool_17 10+ year member]

Thanks, I'll be watching that youtube vid of the Metra kit. I have a pic of a showcar Cruze with an aftermarket headunit. Only there are no clear pic of the dash.

The Alpine speakers are a temporary choice for now. I'm still searching for better speakers without breaking the bank.

The IMPRINT would be awesome for me, as I like to tweak things too.

That's a good point. Maybe I'll leave them stock for a while, as I'm not sure of my pick for the rear door speakers.

Thanks for the recommendation. This car has been a headache to find and fit aftermarket parts. Why can't it just be like those cars back in the 90's-early 2000's

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

this car really isnt that bad, it takes a while to get used to the new car tech, but its really easy to work around it

 

[ljcool_17 10+ year member]

That Cruze has got all Pioneer TS-D1720C front components, 3 12" Champion Pro Subs, and 2 PRS-series amps in the trunk.

I researched the H800 last night and I can't wait to get my hands on one. I'm gonna run it on an active connection with the tweeter and mid-range. Just a lil pissed Alpine have it already in UK but not here in the US.

What do you think of Boston's PRO60SE component speakers? It's a lil expensive than the original ones I wanted. But I was told it's well worth the price.

Just been to a dealer yesterday and found out the 2012 Cruze's are coming. There was an ECO and 1LT that has arrived. They now have standard 6 speed manual tranny with triple overdrive except for the LTZ. USB and AUX-in come in standard, and what I like the most is it's navi is now a touch-screen but still can be controlled using the rotary control. Not only that but it's price is slashed to just $900+. So if it looks good and feels good then I might not purchase a different HU anymore. Good thing I held off and didn't purchase one right away.

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

yea the auto in the 2011 *****, and those pioneer comps and the bostons are nice. i think imma go with some focal polyglass or the diy route and piece my comp set together. problem with the stock radio is the stock eq's but with a good processor that wouldnt matter so it would all be a matter of choice

 

[ljcool_17 10+ year member]

I'm still deciding whether the stock touchscnreen navi would be a good route so I can purchase those bostons. If I end up going with the Alpine HU I wanted then I might settle for either Pioneer or Alpine component speakers. Either I'd still want to get the H800 no matter what. That sounds like a lot work what you want to do with your comps. Hope that works out well.

Offtopic: How would you wire two 3 ohm subs to a mono amp that puts out 1200W at 2 and 4 ohms? Would it be safe to do so?

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

im prolly gonna glass my tweets in the a pillars for imaging purposes. im gonna try to keep my mids in my doors but if they dont sound right ill make some kick pods for them. the h800 will be processing it all with t-a and the eq functions, unless i get the pioneer stage 4 deck which them i wont need another processor. and piecing the set together isnt hard u just have to know what to look for.

and let me guess u are looking at jl subs and an alpine amp. well wired in parallel you would get a 1.5 ohm load in series 6 ohm so it wouldnt be optimal for the amp you are talking bout but with box rise you could prolly run it at 1.5 ohm but thats a big maybe.

i also dont recommend jl subs. just my opinion

 

[ljcool_17 10+ year member]

The stage 4 deck is quite awesome. Where do you plan on fitting that? I know it's not quite hard. The real issue with me is here to place them. Like the H800 and if ever the optional commander controller.

My friend and I were looking at JL subs and first thing I noticed was the impedance. I told him it's not gonna go well with the M1000. As wiring it in either series or parallel would result to either 1.5 or 6 ohms which the amp doesn't support and would be harmful for the subs. I'm still sticking with the sa-10s as the JL subs just aren't my type.

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

well if i were to go with the stage 4 deck i wouldnt be using the clarion and i wouldnt need the h800. but if i stick with the clarion ill stick the h800 in the passenger side kick as there is quite alot of home behind that panel. and i would mount the controller on the over head console hump in the headliner. should work perfectly as the depth on that controller shouldnt be more than 2.5 inches. plus it would just look fn amazing up there.

and ohm loads dont hurt subs, too low of an ohm load can and will hurt the amp though and too high of an ohm load just doesnt give u much power. the reason jl does that wierd ohm load is so they can push there amp on the buyer, since it makes power at 1.5-4ohm.