Chassis Grounds. You're doing it wrong. (+ Giveaway!!)

And you think the difference in surface area between these and a standard lug is going to be that drastic? I don't normally disagree with you but I have to here. The only benefit I see is like you said, the fact that the terminal can't rotate but I've never had any of my single screw ground's come loose so that's never been a factor for me.
The benefit of a direct run of 1/0 is exactly as you said fewer connections which in turn means fewer weak links and fewer points where the circuit can be corroded and deteriorated.
I didn't argue surface area is better between lugs, I said the restance of floor metal is comperable to wire and difference between them is negligible.

The advantage of these is to improve otherwise sub-par installs.

 
lol, new chassis grounds ftw =) (btw, @keep_hope_alive, I have read through several of your argumentative articles.. great stuff. Nice to read the opinions of a well educated individual. With that being said I would like to touch base with you at some point about your thoughts on an enclosure build in reference to port/multi-sub placement).
 
[quote name='Durango03']lol, new chassis grounds ftw =) (btw, @keep_hope_alive, I have read through several of your argumentative articles.. great stuff. Nice to read the opinions of a well educated individual. With that being said I would like to touch base with you at some point about your thoughts on an enclosure build in reference to port/multi-sub placement).[/QUOTE]

Thanks.

PM at will
 
these actually wouldnt be bad if theyre the right cost for a shop like mine. if i have to do a body ground, i usually tap three screws anyway, one into the center of the ring, and then one through the base of the ring and possible one more for safe keeping. i almost always find frame somewhere, but thats what i do when forced.

 
all single hole lugs can and will rotate if you want them to. all metals expand and contract with temperature. all DIY grounds will eventually loosen.
if you review NEC, conductor ampacity is rated based on wire terminal surface area. we recognize that connections ARE the source of heat, resistance, and failure.

the best part of the design is more than one mounting hole. using self-tapping screws saves time but we all know those screws are easily stripped if too much force is applied.

i personally prefer bolts that can be tightened substantially.

it is still a great idea. i have seen people use two self tapping screws on single lug terminals for decades. i don't, but many do.

the resistance in a large hunk of continuous floor metal is as negligible as a run of 1/0 to the front. the only thing you gain with a run of 1/0 is halving the number of connections. the specific vehicle chosen should be evaluated for the placement of welds.

i think these ground rings will improve installations for most of the installers out there.

street wires has a similar concept in a mounting block:

263-623_sii.jpg

TBH, I don't really see these being that beneficial when many of the vehicles they are going to be used on (newer cars) are made of composites, not metal. So there will actually be a considerable decrease in capability over a dedicated run back to the battery.

Now for the 1980 caprice sure....the car is solid 18 gauge sheetmetal....and can be a great conductor....as long the the batt ground is proper. Then these would be the cats meow, but as you said....not really any different than a normal ring terminal with an extra screw to prevent rotation.

 
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