Chassis Grounds. You're doing it wrong. (+ Giveaway!!)

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

3) Say something positive about the person who posted above you.

Pretty sure I'm the only person that did this...

 

[TaylorFade 10+ year member]

Decided to double up the A4's on some 2/0 so you guys can see what it looks like. I may do this way anyway when I get some A1's.

Next to a standard 1/0 ring terminal and a 2/0 copper welding lug. Surface area ftw.

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

Lol. I knew I shold have gotten a pic of the carnage the other bolt left in my trunk. I'll take 3 small, secure ones over one big ugly one any day.
Edit: and since he's already been approached by two HUGE car audio companies about exclusive rights, I think you might be wrong on the "boom" part. but.. I have exactly zero stake in this comapny other than he's a friedn of mine and I agreed to do a review and giveout some samples. So, whatevs.

Just because some company bigwig thinks it's a good idea, doesn't mean the masses will go out and buy them //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 

[CHEMMINS 10+ year member]

In reality, you should be grounding back to the battery. The chassis and bodies of today's vehicles don't carry enough metal to be of actual use to be a ground. I bet if Taylor went direct back to the batt he would gain another 0.2v or better above and beyond these...and have 0 holes from bolts and self tapping screws.....and have no need for "surface area ftw".

 

[TaylorFade 10+ year member]

Just because some company bigwig thinks it's a good idea, doesn't mean the masses will go out and buy them //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

You're right. Some will think they're unecessary. Some will think it's a great idea. I happen to think they're pretty awesome. If you're unconcerned with your grounds, don't use them. People will continue to wrap bare wire around seatbelt bolts or use sheetrock screws with WalMart ring terminals on painted metal. Doesn't mean it can't be done better.

Your ground is such an important link in the chain. Maybe the most important. I don't know why you wouldn't want to spend 5 bucks on a better way to do it instead of 2 bucks for the same old way. Or you can spend 50 bucks for a negative run, but there sure is a whole lot of metal in the circuit for that run of 1/0 to compete with.

 

[TaylorFade 10+ year member]

In reality, you should be grounding back to the battery. The chassis and bodies of today's vehicles don't carry enough metal to be of actual use to be a ground. I bet if Taylor went direct back to the batt he would gain another 0.2v or better above and beyond these...and have 0 holes from bolts and self tapping screws.....and have no need for "surface area ftw".

I can test that if you like. But the reality is, we a re a VERY SMALL portion of the car audio world. The masses aren't going to use a negative run. We aren't the masses, but I still use chassis grounds because I've seen gains with them. Maybe not in my brand new car, but in my others.

I'll do a negative run and see if I gain vs. these.

 

[CHEMMINS 10+ year member]

.... I don't know why you wouldn't want to spend 5 bucks on a better way to do it instead of 2 bucks for the same old way. Or you can spend 50 bucks for a negative run, but there sure is a whole lot of metal in the circuit for that run of 1/0 to compete with.

Yer right....spend the $50 and do it right.

Your whole selling point is about getting rid of the weakest part of the circuit. Now tell me that your buddies terminals have as much metal as a run of 1/0.......

And you are saying the body of a vehicle has a lot of metal in it? Maybe if you own something that is pre 1990.

 

[chillin 10+ year member]

You're right. Some will think they're unecessary. Some will think it's a great idea. I happen to think they're pretty awesome. If you're unconcerned with your grounds, don't use them. People will continue to wrap bare wire around seatbelt bolts or use sheetrock screws with WalMart ring terminals on painted metal. Doesn't mean it can't be done better.
Your ground is such an important link in the chain. Maybe the most important. I don't know why you wouldn't want to spend 5 bucks on a better way to do it instead of 2 bucks for the same old way. Or you can spend 50 bucks for a negative run, but there sure is a whole lot of metal in the circuit for that run of 1/0 to compete with.

Please explain. I was planning on doing a negative run on my next build. Where is the problem? And I do like the look of these grounds.

 

[chillin 10+ year member]

You're right. Some will think they're unecessary. Some will think it's a great idea. I happen to think they're pretty awesome. If you're unconcerned with your grounds, don't use them. People will continue to wrap bare wire around seatbelt bolts or use sheetrock screws with WalMart ring terminals on painted metal. Doesn't mean it can't be done better.
Your ground is such an important link in the chain. Maybe the most important. I don't know why you wouldn't want to spend 5 bucks on a better way to do it instead of 2 bucks for the same old way. Or you can spend 50 bucks for a negative run, but there sure is a whole lot of metal in the circuit for that run of 1/0 to compete with.

Please explain. I was planning on doing a negative run on my next build. Where is the problem? And I do like the look of these grounds.

 

[TaylorFade 10+ year member]

Another thing is... we all use chassis grounds. Lol. Well, unles you did the "Big 2."

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

Lol its a gimmick bro, I don't care how many tenths you think you gained, a proper lug secured PROPERLY would be just as good of a connection.

 

[TaylorFade 10+ year member]

Lol its a gimmick bro, I don't care how many tenths you think you gained, a proper lug secured PROPERLY would be just as good of a connection.

I'm not going to argue with you, man. But the fact is, you have absolutely ZERO evidence to back that claim up. Whereas I have real world testing.

In my CA world, everything is measured, tested, poked and prodded. That's why I have good meters, O-Scopes, a TermLab, an RTA and clamps. So I don't have to guess or wonder about anything.

Bottom line is, you have your opinion. I have my results. If you don't like the product, don't use it. And I suspect you won't. I mean, I giving the things away. Lol.

 

[Falcons 5,000+ posts]

guys if you dont like it dont buy it lol. i probably wont buy them to be honest, but im sure to some people, these will work wonders. i like how they already come with the self tapping screws.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

Lol its a gimmick bro, I don't care how many tenths you think you gained, a proper lug secured PROPERLY would be just as good of a connection.

all single hole lugs can and will rotate if you want them to. all metals expand and contract with temperature. all DIY grounds will eventually loosen.

if you review NEC, conductor ampacity is rated based on wire terminal surface area. we recognize that connections ARE the source of heat, resistance, and failure.

the best part of the design is more than one mounting hole. using self-tapping screws saves time but we all know those screws are easily stripped if too much force is applied.

i personally prefer bolts that can be tightened substantially.

it is still a great idea. i have seen people use two self tapping screws on single lug terminals for decades. i don't, but many do.

the resistance in a large hunk of continuous floor metal is as negligible as a run of 1/0 to the front. the only thing you gain with a run of 1/0 is halving the number of connections. the specific vehicle chosen should be evaluated for the placement of welds.

i think these ground rings will improve installations for most of the installers out there.

street wires has a similar concept in a mounting block:

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

all single hole lugs can and will rotate if you want them to. all metals expand and contract with temperature. all DIY grounds will eventually loosen.
if you review NEC, conductor ampacity is rated based on wire terminal surface area. we recognize that connections ARE the source of heat, resistance, and failure.

the best part of the design is more than one mounting hole. using self-tapping screws saves time but we all know those screws are easily stripped if too much force is applied.

i personally prefer bolts that can be tightened substantially.

it is still a great idea. i have seen people use two self tapping screws on single lug terminals for decades. i don't, but many do.

the resistance in a large hunk of continuous floor metal is as negligible as a run of 1/0 to the front. the only thing you gain with a run of 1/0 is halving the number of connections. the specific vehicle chosen should be evaluated for the placement of welds.

i think these ground rings will improve installations for most of the installers out there.

street wires has a similar concept in a mounting block:

And you think the difference in surface area between these and a standard lug is going to be that drastic? I don't normally disagree with you but I have to here. The only benefit I see is like you said, the fact that the terminal can't rotate but I've never had any of my single screw ground's come loose so that's never been a factor for me.

The benefit of a direct run of 1/0 is exactly as you said fewer connections which in turn means fewer weak links and fewer points where the circuit can be corroded and deteriorated.