charging 2nd batt question

while i was running the wire i thought.....shouldnt i run the neg wire to the engine instead of the front batt?? the juice would have to go though alot just to get back to the power. if the alt gets grounded str8 from the engine, then the wire should b coming from the alt both ways power and grouund. am i right or wrong....input?

 
I don't think you HAVE to connect battery negatives imo seems like a lot of money for wiring you don't really need. Grounding to your chassis in the rear should be just as good.(Do you send you amps ground back to the front battery? No) As for an Isolator a lot of people told me you don't really needed, but you CAN use it if you want it will slightly increase the life of both your batteries(Assuming they are different if they are the same Wear/Brand/Specs then isolator won't make any difference unless you want it so it doesn't drain your starter while engine is off) To reduce dimming Increase Alt to Battery, Battery to chassis, Engine to Chassis. I just did Engine to Chassis today and noticed a slight reduce in the drop-age in my Voltage meter. Tomorrow I think I shall Do the other 2 and see how much better it gets.

 
I don't think you HAVE to connect battery negatives imo seems like a lot of money for wiring you don't really need. Grounding to your chassis in the rear should be just as good.(Do you send you amps ground back to the front battery? No) As for an Isolator a lot of people told me you don't really needed, but you CAN use it if you want it will slightly increase the life of both your batteries(Assuming they are different if they are the same Wear/Brand/Specs then isolator won't make any difference unless you want it so it doesn't drain your starter while engine is off) To reduce dimming Increase Alt to Battery, Battery to chassis, Engine to Chassis. I just did Engine to Chassis today and noticed a slight reduce in the drop-age in my Voltage meter. Tomorrow I think I shall Do the other 2 and see how much better it gets.
my big 3 is in 1/0

140 amp alt

100Ah battery

30FT of 2AWG wire

my amp is 2krms

sub 2krms

i was still getting dimming wen i had my other amp so i thought that i would take very step to stop it....an my batts are not the same in back an front an they will not b connected at night

 
2k Is quite high, I don't have much experience in higher wattage stereo, but I think dimming is going to happen that high. Don't forget your alternator isn't always putting out 140 Amps(and it still has to run all your vehicle electrical too.), maybe when your engine is like 4000revs it would put out a decent amount of amps. Are you having dimming problems while driving? If you are talking about idleling try putting it in neutral you will get a bit more amps out of your alternator and the more you rev it up the more your alternator will put you.

Another thing that MIGHT help is making all wires as short as possible to minimize voltage drop.

 
try putting it in neutral you will get a bit more amps out of your alternator and the more you rev it up the more your alternator will put you.
not correct. your alt is going to put out it's max amperage around 2,000 rpms. I got a kick when I went to an spl comp and some people would rev and hold it in the 4-5k range.

 
Depending on the back batt, an isolator is not needed. Batt's such as Kinetik, batcap and other AGM's are made knowing their use will quickly drain and recharge them. They work as more of a giant cap than an additional stock battery. So i do not see the need to add an isolator in that case. Though, it cant hurt.

 
i have not hooked this amp up to the car with it on....ive only had the back batt disconnected from the the entire car. my other amp was connected an i was dimming. but it was an a/b so im sure ill have less current draw but im just covering all angles an yes at 2k rpms its almost at full output. and i read somewhere that grounding near the rear is ok for systems that are around 1k but above that its best to ground to the front

 
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