CCA vs Amp hours for Application

bgowdy
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Im just curious about this aspect, ive tried searching but cant really find alot.

In my system, i am never playing it with the vehicle not running, and when demoing i tack the RPMs to 2k rmps when playing 1/2 power or more(thats just me). Below 1/2 power ill play at idle.

When looking for batteries which is more important to look at cca(cranking amps) or Amp hours? I was told that higher CCA is more important to look at when playing with the vehicle running, and higher AH is a better for playing with the vehicle not running.

Ive tried to find threads to kind of explain it, but the responses seems to not make sense to me.

So in short, for the way i run mine what would better to look at?

Thanks,

 
I just keep adding agm batteries until amps keeps cool so idk.
lol i i have couple now but are old and time for some new ones lol..... i currently have my amp wired to .5 with a 80-90 amp alt(im smart with it, ihave a voltmeter at the amp so i can always monitor it.

Im going to be uprading stuff alittle later, because im getting a different car. Will be doing 4 runs of 1/0 cca(i get it cheap lol.. so 2 postive/2 neg and 1/0 big 3) and probably get 4(may end up getting 2 more later) of those little guy batts that Michaellanes has on here. Those 4 batts will have more amps in the set then my 2 bigger agms and take less space lol

My amp for the stock alt and 2 batts with 1 run 1/0 doesnt do to bad honestly. im just curious about battery ratings.

 
Long story short (since I'm on my phone)

Big agms have always been recommended for car audio since years ago you always wanted the biggest batt you could find for your setup. Since most agms are only rated in amp hours that became the norm. What people didn't know was that those big agms had a lot of cca as well just not specifically printed on the labels.

Since music has lots of dips and spikes you would want something that closely resembles that. So when you are starting a vehicle those first couple of seconds are the most important or cca.

So In short most high ah Batts have a lot of cca anyway. But if you are gonna be playing with the car on and have a decent size alt, then cca rating is what you are wanting to look for. Or at least a load test to get an idea of its rating

 
I look for a mix of both even though I only play witb the car on. I got a guy local who preaches this stuff but when you tell him to just get a yellow top then (high cca low ah rating) he wont do it. You just want a good mix is all

 
i find the battery thing can be confusing for sho...

as everybody says someing diffrent...

op you do bring up a good ?

it seems like im like jeff, i keep adding more,, and more.. lol

have 7 in the back plus a og yellow top.

and getting 4 more for the back....

 
i find the battery thing can be confusing for sho...
as everybody says someing diffrent...

op you do bring up a good ?

it seems like im like jeff, i keep adding more,, and more.. lol

have 7 in the back plus a og yellow top.

and getting 4 more for the back....
it is confusing. i only run 2500-3k rms. i was also told by a Dom Iraggi that he goes more off the CCA rating. He runs a bunch of small cheap lawn mower batteries and never has voltage issues. thats why i question which is better to look at.

Again i can run 4 of those little guys that michaellane has and those 4 have more total amps then my 2 current batteries, and are smaller and cheaper per set of 4. Also seeing they are smaller they should charge up quicker as well.

 
Perfect example of ah not meaning much are the Juicebox and XS power lithium batts. The 40ah lithium is good for around 20-30k burps and can beat on it all day up to 15kish if i recall.

 
Perfect example of ah not meaning much are the Juicebox and XS power lithium batts. The 40ah lithium is good for around 20-30k burps and can beat on it all day up to 15kish if i recall.
i see..... i wonder how 4-6 of the little guys would do with 3k daily

 
Rule of thumb. 55 ah per 1000 watts rms minus to stock battery size
ok, so again with the question at hand where as i run only with the car running. Still look at 55ah per 1k watts? and what do mean minus the stock battery?

 
ok, so again with the question at hand where as i run only with the car running. Still look at 55ah per 1k watts? and what do mean minus the stock battery?
Stock battery ah doesn't count. In other words. If your stock battery is say 75 ah and your running 3000 rms. then you need 165 ah plus the cars 75 ah needed to be good

 
Stock battery ah doesn't count. In other words. If your stock battery is say 75 ah and your running 3000 rms. then you need 165 ah plus the cars 75 ah needed to be good
ok i see, but if your cars battery is tied into the rear bank why would it count? just curious

 
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bgowdy

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