capacitor info

71' plymouth scamp with the little slant 6 225 cui and 2 12" rockford fosgate HX2 with 1000 watt r/t amp 2 6x9 sony explodes 2 4" schoche speakers kenwood radio and running 8 gauge from battery to subs and for some reason idk what guage it is but a lil smaller wire running power to the radio from the back. 750 cranking amps on the battery and 650 cold cranking oh and 4 12" cold catode lights.does this help?
Oh, my. ...Start with getting that 120 amp alternator. Make sure your battery is in good shape. Replace your power wire with something much more substantial. Ofc 4ga or better.

 
You don't need any cap. Your friends are dumb. You have a very small alternator. Where do you think the power comes from? Amps turn current into voltage. You don't have any current to turn into anything.
LMAO... dude stop trying to help people and go learn something.

 
4 gauge power and ground wire from the battery to the amp.
Upgrade your stock batt to an AGM, I'd do a batt around 50-60 ah. Do the big 3, set the h/u and amp settings correctly and call it a day.

NO CAPS! You will not benefit at all. There's no point. (/Thread)

hu and amp settings? dude I'm just a dumb kid who bought some subs and threw em in my car haha I don't have a CLUE how or what any of that is but I knw about bigger wire and big 3. and how many amps do I need in the battery?

 
So you are only running the 1000 watt r/t ampfor your subs correct? Nothing for your mids and highs, ie running off the headunit?

First off upgrade the 8ga wire to 4ga, doesn't need to be OFC wire, CCA will work fine for the amount of power your running. You can get a brand new small kinetic battery as a secondary battery for $65 shipped or so on ebay. Replace your primary battery with any AGM one. Do the big 3. I don't think you will need to do the alt if you do everything else, however if you go bigger or add another amp for mids/highs I would upgrade the alt.

My 66 GTO ran a stock 1 wire alt for months with just a red top optima and the big 3 pushing ~800rms with very little dimming.

 
So you are only running the 1000 watt r/t ampfor your subs correct? Nothing for your mids and highs, ie running off the headunit?
First off upgrade the 8ga wire to 4ga, doesn't need to be OFC wire, CCA will work fine for the amount of power your running. You can get a brand new small kinetic battery as a secondary battery for $65 shipped or so on ebay. Replace your primary battery with any AGM one. Do the big 3. I don't think you will need to do the alt if you do everything else, however if you go bigger or add another amp for mids/highs I would upgrade the alt.

My 66 GTO ran a stock 1 wire alt for months with just a red top optima and the big 3 pushing ~800rms with very little dimming.


eh I don't think I'll need one for the mids and highs, I turn them to negetive 8 and same with the bass level with the subs set to +15 and volume offest to -8 and theres a thing in the initial setup can't member what its called but I have it set to 6X9 (6) is that good? or te other option is OEM

and ok hows this for a plan a optimal yellowtop 55 ah running 0 gauge to a battery in the back and a 0 gauge big 3? and I think I'm going to atleast go to a 78 amp or 120 alt.

 
Avoid yellow tops if you can.
why do you say that, there the only ones I have ever ran and with there warranty I have never treated one nice and the couple failure's I had where completely my fault but where still replaced for free on the spot!

 
Do not get an optima....they are crap. Get a shruiken if you are looking on the cheaps, or a deka intimidator. Get the 120 amp alt.

Grab some 1/0 welding cable for big 3.

All on the cheapz.

 
eh I don't think I'll need one for the mids and highs, I turn them to negetive 8 and same with the bass level with the subs set to +15 and volume offest to -8 and theres a thing in the initial setup can't member what its called but I have it set to 6X9 (6) is that good? or te other option is OEM
and ok hows this for a plan a optimal yellowtop 55 ah running 0 gauge to a battery in the back and a 0 gauge big 3? and I think I'm going to atleast go to a 78 amp or 120 alt.
You don't need 0ga, 4ga for the amount of power your are running is perfect. TURN YOUR BASS LEVEL DOWN!!! Your clipping the shit out of that amp and going to blow your subs. Set everything to zero, get a DMM and set everything correctly. The yellowtop is fine, I still don't think with the amount of power your running you don't need a bigger alt. Just get a 2nd small AGM battery, not a full size oneEbay Link, the optima up front and the big 3 with either 0ga or 4ga. My GTO has 4ga for big 3

Do not get an optima....they are crap. Get a shruiken if you are looking on the cheaps, or a deka intimidator. Get the 120 amp alt.
Grab some 1/0 welding cable for big 3.

All on the cheapz.
Never had an issue with optima, really don't think he needs bigger alt with 2 batteries and that little of power.

 
I run a small capacitor in my system just to keep my headlights from noticably dimming momentarily. Seems to have solved that. However, I don't struggle much with keeping my electrical system from dropping anywhere near 12 volts (except at night when I'm running the lights, blower, defroster, stereo, and the car is below 1500-2k RPM). I think the lowest mine ever goes while driving is in the neighborhood of 13-13.5.

Based on my experience (correct me if I'm wrong please), capacitors are great for taking the "shock," if you want to call it that, off of your system, but will not solve voltage drop issues. In other words, if you're headlights dim slightly when a big thump hits, a capacitor can help, but if you're dropping down to 12 volts whenever Young Jeezy is playing, then it's not going to solve much. Like I said, I want to know what's correct here, so if I'm right or wrong please let me know.

 
why do you say that, there the only ones I have ever ran and with there warranty I have never treated one nice and the couple failure's I had where completely my fault but where still replaced for free on the spot!
I ran them before, they are fine till a certian point. After that point they will end up costing more then todays purpose built batteries

 
dislike or poop on me if you like. my take on caps. they arent batteries. some people seem to not realize that. they dont provide amperage or none of that good stuff. they are strickly a voltage thing. you can have 3 270 amp alts and 10 31s and still stuffer voltagd drop. thats where caps come in. they more so slow down the process and prolong the pounding. thats makes is easier for current to flow steadily. true if you cant provide the current you need (or majority), they dont help. i've been in and seen Scott's truck numerous times and his voltages plunges over time. i'm willing to bet a rack of decent caps could even benifit someone like him

 
battery is not upgraded its not stock but the second own did put a new one in. and all I can afford is a 120 amp altand what if i got a 120 amp alt and instead of up grading that battery what if I did a secondary? and can it be jus any ol' battery??? or does it HAVE to be a audio one?
If you keep putting regular starting batteries in there, you will keep ruining them..I went through several before I bit the bullet and bought a good deep cycle AGM and my problems were solved. I should have just bough a Yellowtop in the beginning instead of wasting money on cheap regular car batteries. I would highly recommend you purchase a good AGM for the front and possibly a smaller one for the amplifiers. Do not mess with Caps..you can use a battery instead for much better and safer results. I would do this first because it will be necessary, whether you buy a new ALT or not.

 
12-14v go in, how much comes out? I didnt break it down barny style for the OP but I made a quick point. Have a good day
You said "amps turn current into voltage". That is simply not accurate and whatever point you think you made was erroneous. Did you take my advice?

 
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