Can't turn the sub all the way up

[SkwurlyFab 10+ year member]

I know, the 8 ga wire was a mistake. i just used it cuz it came with the kit. it's doing fine for the 300/4 though, no problems whatsoever and the speakers are loud as hell and very audible. a little harsh when turned all the way up, but hell that's what type R's r known for lol.

Anyways, I switched the 8 ga wire out for 4 ga wire to the 1000 so now it has 4 ga all the way from the battery. it still shuts off, but at 33/35 instead of 29/35 volume wise.

I have a capacitor installed, 1.2 farad, could that be the problem? I think I'm gonna go and run it without the cap real quick and see if that helps? I know this sub can go very loud, because right before the amp shuts off, it is ****ing pounding in the car. I just wish it would stay like that:crying:

I'm gonna go unhook the cap real quick and test it out, any other ideas on what it could be since the 4 guage power wire didn't completely solve the problem?

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

Make sure that your ground is a good ground. Not just sanded to bare metal, but a truly good electrical path to ground. Also make sure that all your connections are solid. You have a bottleneck somewhere. Try disconnecting the 300/4 and see what happens with the 1000/1. It could be that the current being drawn by the 300/4 is enough to drop the voltage on the 1000/1.

 

[XaznKewLguyX 10+ year member]

lose the AGU's and get ANL's. Think the 1000/1 needs a 150a ANL fuse.

 

[SkwurlyFab 10+ year member]

I disconnected the cap... no difference. I disconnected the 300/4 just at the power wire... no difference. This is really aggravating. Is there a way to actually tesst the ground with a DMM or something to see if it's a good one or not?

I plan on upgrading to ANL's very soon, but the fuse hasn't popped in 2 days of very hard testing with the amp constantly shutting itself off. and the blue voltage light lights up when it shuts off, so it's definitly a power issue. I just have no idea what issue it could ****ing be:furious:

 

[Pyro_By_Nature 5,000+ posts]

Replace the 60A fuse lol.

I tmight even be worth it to get 1/0 to a distro block, with very short runs of 4 gauge to both amps from the distro.

 

[SkwurlyFab 10+ year member]

would replacing the fuse with a higher rated one let more power thru so there won't be a bottleneck?

 

[XaznKewLguyX 10+ year member]

Run a strand of 0AWG to your trunk from your battery, get a 0AWG ANL fused dist block and split it to 2 strands of 4AWG for your amps. Fuse the 300/4 with a 100a ANL fuse (i think its the smallest it gets) and get a 150a fuse for your 1000/1. Check your grounds.

 

[SkwurlyFab 10+ year member]

Allright I will try that. Many people have recommended larger guage wiring. I'll probably do it tomorrow or Friday, and if that doesn't work I'm gonna huck the amp off a cliff. But not the sub, I like it too much ahahha:crazy:

 

[SkwurlyFab 10+ year member]

umm, maybe your battery is just shit?
maybe if you cant trouble shoot the problem yourself... you should shoot yourself instead?

Um maybe it's a brand new deep cycle yellow top. But you wouldn't know that cuz you don't pay attention too well. You seem like a great problem solver buddy. "hmmmm, I can't figure it out, so I'll just give up and kill myself!" you're going far in life

 

[Pyro_By_Nature 5,000+ posts]

lmao

It might be worth it trying to ground it in a different spot.Sand al the paint off that spot, and if you have some a ltitle acetone to clean it up.

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

To test your ground, you need a DMM and a piece of wire or really long leads on the DMM. Connect the neg lead of the DMM to the neg post of the battery. Connect the pos lead of the DMM to the neg terminal of the amp. Set the DMM to DC volts. With the amp off it should read 0. As you turn on the system it will go to something other than 0. As you turn up the system it will increase. This increase is a power loss due to resistance and is voltage that is not getting to the amp. Since you are not having problems with the 300/4 I would suspect that the ground for you 1000/1 sucks. The one for the 300/4 might be horrible too but since there is not as much current going through that one, the voltage drop is not as much. When it turns out that you ground is no good, you will either want to find a better ground spot or ground right back to the battery neg post with the same size wire that you use for power.

The manual for the 1000/1 calls for a 100A ANL for it. The 300/4 will need a much smaller fuse than that. 30-40A should be sufficient. That leaves the system fuse in the 150A range.

 

[Bolognablake 10+ year member]

Have you tired re-wiring the VC yet? You didn't seem to sure that you had it in series or parallel.

 

[SkwurlyFab 10+ year member]

Got it worked out, seems there was a couple problems. The battery ground was good, but what had a shitload of resistance and wasn't letting enough power through was this fused stinger voltage block. The 4 ga wire would come from the battery and then into the digital voltage guage, pass through there and continute onto the seperate amps. testing it with the DMM showed alot of resistance. So I replaced all power and ground wires with 4 ga and bypassed that fused voltage block. immediatly instead of the amp shutting off the 60 amp fuse right by the battery blew and I knew that block was the problem.

Went down to socal customs and picked up a 300 amp ANL fuse and holder to replace the 60 amp fuse by the battery and a new distrobutoin block for the amp power wires. got a 0 in, two 4 ga out fused distro and put a 150 amp fuse to the 1000/1 and a 100 amp fuse to the 300/4. wired everything up and haven't had a problem since. 136 bucks worth of fuses and fuse holders, and I'm sure that's a huge ripoff since I bought it from a **** store but I couldn't wait any longer so whatever. Soon i'll replace the 4 guage wire from the battery to the distro block with 0 ga but for now it's working out great.

The sub Tuan sold me is a ****ing monster and I think my cars gonna rattle apart. The rear panels flex a good half inch on my car and everything else is pretty bad too haha. I love it, it's a huge step up from what I've had in the past.

Thanks for all the help from everybody that contributed to this thread. When I get everything all organized and cleaned up and mounted, I'll post pictures for everyone cuz it's all coming out real nice.

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

The fuses you currently have installed are too big to do their intended job. The 1000/1 only calls for a 100A and the 300/4 only needs a 30-40A. The underhood fuse is dangerously large for the 4ga wire. 150A max on that (which should be plenty of the whole system anyway).

 

[SkwurlyFab 10+ year member]

that's what i figured. i will buy new ones tomorrow and just have these as back ups i guess for a futur system. thank for all the help helotaxi.