Cant get off...

[LoudCrownVic 5,000+ posts]

Hello, I'm looking for a website that has automotive midranges/tweeters of quality and I have been looking at Madisound and their stuff but none/hardly any of it is automotive!

Is there a website like Madisound for automotive gearheads? Or can I use speakers intended for a sealed home theatre app for my door pods?

Click to read more...

 

[Prowler573 5,000+ posts]

IIRC more than a few DIYers use 8 Ohm drivers really intended for in-home use for mobile applications - just take into account the higher impedence and the effect it will have on your crossover slopes when factoring in intended power. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[LoudCrownVic 5,000+ posts]

IIRC more than a few DIYers use 8 Ohm drivers really intended for in-home use for mobile applications - just take into account the higher impedence and the effect it will have on your crossover slopes when factoring in intended power. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Well, that kind of thing (x-over slopes) is beyond my current knowledge... I was thinking of running dual 4" Morel mids with 8 ohm impendance (wired parralel to 4 ohms) and then a tweeter of some kind. It would look cool basically, maybe I can do some dual imaging or something. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

The problem is most of these are for sealed or vented apps and I'm not so sure how well that will work FREEAIR, unless I actually seal up the chamber, which doing to any accuracy will be difficult with fiberglass

 

[LoudCrownVic 5,000+ posts]

http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?cart_id=6470532.27323&pid=703

My sisters car has thos ^^^ they sound FREAKING AWESOME she got the whole comp set for $60 at a pawnshop.

These are the ones I was thinking about getting. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif the price will end up being ~$600 with some good tweets and x-overs.

 

[LoudCrownVic 5,000+ posts]

get some viagra?

Haven't had a system for 6 months? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 

[LoudCrownVic 5,000+ posts]

Basically I'm looking for a component set that will sound great, get loud and be able to handle 125 watts Rms @ 4ohms from an Alpine Mrv-F545, but I'm a bit of a customizer so.., Doing something custom seems like more fun than just slapping in a comp set.

Link to alpine manual: (Edit- login without user code, click on amps, 2005, and MRV F545) http://www.stylestandard.net/oswego/login/alpinelogin

 

[Jaredl 10+ year member]

Are you going to run active or passive? No offense, but it doesn't sound like you have any idea what you want to do. I would see figure out what size speakers you can fit (or are willing to make fit), what your budget is, what your processing capabilities and skills are, and your willingness to tune and fabricate. What processor/HU do you run? Are you willing or planning to upgrade it? That is the first step if you plan to run active (which is preferable and usually easier in a car environment with your own drivers). Once you have planned out your system (MUCH more important than driver choice), you may want to go to http://www.diymobileaudio.com for suggestions on drivers. Again, first figure out your system plans.

 

[LoudCrownVic 5,000+ posts]

Okay... YOu are right, I am clueless. I am willing to learn anything though!

I have-

Eclipse CD8454 (great SQ deck) prolly don't need to upgrade...

Alpine MRV-F545 2x125@4 and 500x1@4 (not great SQ but what I've got)

Those two things I am pretty much solid on.

I have a Porsche 924S and I have 5 4x6m cutouts. One in the dash, two in the doors and two buried in the rear behind some trim panles that are worthless. I was going to fabricate some fiberglass door pods for the front... But for what? That is my problem, basically, most components cannot handle 125w.

Mostly id like suggestions because I am so clueless... Thanks for the help Jaredl!

 

[Jaredl 10+ year member]

Ok, you're actually really well setup to run an active system. It sounds like you have experience or are willing to fabricate, which will help. That Eclipse will allow you to run a 3-way (2-way frontstage + sub) active crossover, which is the way to go if you DIY a frontstage. I would look into something fairly basic, as it may not be worth throwing in ultra high-end stuff for your first attempt at active, and with DIY drivers your money can go a LONG way. I would try to toss in 7" mids if you can make pods for them - I would look into Peerless Exclusive for moderately priced, excellent mids (~$150 a pair from Madisound). Dayton Reference mids would also work well for a budget choice (~$70 for a pair from Parts Express). I would run 2 channels of the amp to these mids. Then, I would look into tweeters. Dayton Reference RS28As are a bit big, but are great for ~$90 a pair from Parts Express. These tweeters will sound great and play low enough to match up with mids in a 2-way setup. I would find a small (25-50W @ 4 ohms, maybe 75W - shouldn't be expensive at all for a decent amp) amp to power the tweeters - you don't need much power for tweeters, as they can deafen you with a watt or two. Then, you will use your HU to cross the speakers. This will be cheaper, and definitely sound better than running 4s as your only mids.

Edit - Alpine lists that amp as 100 x 4, not 125 x 2. I would bridge the rear channels to 300W @ 4 and run that to a dual 2 ohm IDQ or similar sub with great SQ for ~$150.

 

[LoudCrownVic 5,000+ posts]

Ok, you're actually really well setup to run an active system. It sounds like you have experience or are willing to fabricate, which will help. That Eclipse will allow you to run a 3-way (2-way frontstage + sub) active crossover, which is the way to go if you DIY a frontstage. I would look into something fairly basic, as it may not be worth throwing in ultra high-end stuff for your first attempt at active, and with DIY drivers your money can go a LONG way. I would try to toss in 7" mids if you can make pods for them - I would look into Peerless Exclusive for moderately priced, excellent mids (~$150 a pair from Madisound). Dayton Reference mids would also work well for a budget choice (~$70 for a pair from Parts Express). I would run 2 channels of the amp to these mids. Then, I would look into tweeters. Dayton Reference RS28As are a bit big, but are great for ~$90 a pair from Parts Express. These tweeters will sound great and play low enough to match up with mids in a 2-way setup. I would find a small (25-50W @ 4 ohms, maybe 75W - shouldn't be expensive at all for a decent amp) amp to power the tweeters - you don't need much power for tweeters, as they can deafen you with a watt or two. Then, you will use your HU to cross the speakers. This will be cheaper, and definitely sound better than running 4s as your only mids.
Edit - Alpine lists that amp as 100 x 4, not 125 x 2. I would bridge the rear channels to 300W @ 4 and run that to a dual 2 ohm IDQ or similar sub with great SQ for ~$150.

Wow, sweet thanks man! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif You are a ton of help! Well, my amp has a special 3 channel feature that when the rear channel is bridged it's supposed to put out the 125 and 500... I don't know if this is true or not but the problem is that most of those mids have an impendance of 8 ohms, not 4 like th alpine needs, that's why i was considering a dual driver setup to acieve the 4ohm load and the power handling needed. (running active would probably solve power handling problems...)

But I'm not so good at this and you have helped me get more direction. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Jaredl 10+ year member]

The Alpine doesn't "need" 4 ohms. On the contrary, running at a high ohm load lowers distortion (though a good amp won't have audible distortion at rated impedance) and makes the amp run cooler (and usually live longer). I wouldn't hesitate to run that to the 8 ohm Peerless mids. The Dayton mids come in 4 ohms, if you really want to get more power out of your amp (though the benefits are negligible and it is sometimes better to run higher impedance drivers). I would find a nice 2 channel amp with low power as stated before for tweeters. Did you look into the drivers I listed?

If you want to keep it simple and cheap, I will list a nice setup.

Quality 2 x 70 Aurasound amp ($70):

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=269-160

6" Dayton 4 ohm mids(under $60/pair):

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-372

7" Dayton 4 ohm mids ($65/pair):

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-374

Dayton RS28A tweeters (under $95/pair - they are a bit over 4" wide, so you'll need a bit of space - small format tweeters that play low are usually more expensive and harder to find):

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=275-130

I'd look at that and think about it, if you want to spend more there are plenty of options. I would use the 7" mids if you can fabricate pods for them, otherwise the 6"s will be easier to fit. This setup will give you good sound at a very low price, so I'd seriously look at that.

 

[LoudCrownVic 5,000+ posts]

Wow man awesome! I looked at all the stuff shortly before you posted links, //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif but thanks a ton, i think people should look at those, I am excited about them, and that's what I'm set on getting! I have to look which mids the peerless or the daytons have shallower mounting depth once more, but the shallowest will probably be put in.

It will be unique and sound incredible! You are the man I hope you stick around the forum!

 

[alphakenny1 10+ year member]

yo if you are clueless about active setups here's my attempt of an explanation of the basics of an active setup, http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=146726&highlight=active+passive.

as far as equipment goes, one of the more popular combos about there is the LPG 25NFA and the Seas CA18RNX. its gotten great results and pretty cheap. goes for roughly $190 + shipping at madisound. i ran the LPG 25NFA and the Seas Ca18rly setup and it was awesome. you got plenty of power on tap so if you go with this setup it should sound good. but of course you need to get past that learning curve to know how to run a nice active setup but after that its very easy. good luck.

 

[LoudCrownVic 5,000+ posts]

yo if you are clueless about active setups here's my attempt of an explanation of the basics of an active setup, http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=146726&highlight=active+passive.
as far as equipment goes, one of the more popular combos about there is the LPG 25NFA and the Seas CA18RNX. its gotten great results and pretty cheap. goes for roughly $190 + shipping at madisound. i ran the LPG 25NFA and the Seas Ca18rly setup and it was awesome. you got plenty of power on tap so if you go with this setup it should sound good. but of course you need to get past that learning curve to know how to run a nice active setup but after that its very easy. good luck.

Sweet, I'll look the Lotus option over //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif. Thanks for the link, I hope I can understand this better. I will get some money together and go buy some fiberglass //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif and find an active x first.

 

[alphakenny1 10+ year member]

also, the Seas speakers i mentioned isn't in the lotus line. the lotus line is seas' car audio line which only includes the performance and reference line. the speakers i mentioned, Seas CA18RLY and Seas CA18RNX, are Seas' standard speakers in which it is made for a home environment but many use for their cars.