Can I JUST Get a HO Alternator?

[Prowler573 5,000+ posts]

You guys are missing the point

I don't think we are, actually. I think we're all trying to go to the same place we're just using different avenues to get there.

NO ONE draws 110A of current every second your car is running and an Isolator is an even bigger waste of your money.

I agree 100%

A simple example, your car battery has X amount of amperage. Add a cap and you still have X amount of amperage but in different locations. Add a second battery of equal size to your front battery and you now have XX amperage available. Add an isolator and you're back to X amperage PER "system"

Yep

Yes, you would want to have the ability to charge/recharge your batteries, but can you honestly say you drive 24/7 with every accessory on, maybe in Alaska where they have no sun for weeks on end ok...my point is you do not draw that much all the time and your front amps draw very little compared to the subs, which are not constant either again unless your doing a sweep or Db Drag.

Okay - I see what you're saying. The part I've enboldened is subjective. I have seen setups that ran 600 class a/b watts into their front stage/rear fill then ran 600 class d watts into a single sub. In that example I'd have to disagree with you. The considerably more efficient Class D will likely be less of a current hog than the other.
At any rate there ARE people that ride around with their systems cranked wide open constantly. It's these irresponsible users that give the rest of the aftermarket mobile audio fans a bad name as a whole. If you have X amount of current available and you put Y amount of draw on that available current....if the recharge mechanism (read: the alternator) cannot at least match the demands placed upon it additional storage capacity will merely delay the inevitable. Eventually the system's reserves will get depleted and alternator failure will likely ensue.

Gotta go with jntar on this one...

HO Alternator > 2nd Battery

 

[knukonceptz 10+ year member]

Yes AB amps use more power as they often create more heat, but unless they are full range (ie no crossover at 80hz or so) they will draw less then half their fused rating. A 40hz note will certainly put a strain on your sub amp that your front amps could never imagine. You'd kill the front speakers trying that

I totally agree with your last statement, but like I pointed out, some HO ALT charge the same or less then a stock unit at low RPM. Older units use to charge higher only above 2500rpm. A "normal" user could get by without the HO ALT assuming they have a stock unit of 90A+

 

[75MonteCarlo 10+ year member]

So look into a HO alt that does 150 amp @ 1000 rpm and 200 at 2500rpm. If you're worried about your components and power spikes, use caps. If you're a tool, put in a 2nd battery and call it good until winter comes. This all also depends on how much wattage is being used here, I can't remember what wattage this kid needs to supply. 1Kw doesn't even need a HO alt, just big 3.