can i get away with..

[robertoyoung08 10+ year member]

can i get away with just:

260 amp alt (DC power)

big three

and a kinetik in under the hood?

running a total of 1800 watts rms (plus whatever my stock electrical runs at)

Click to read more...

 

[Suicide Bobb 5,000+ posts]

Yes.

 

[robertoyoung08 10+ year member]

Yes.

best answer ive heard. eeveryone says "do a battery in the back"

i dont want an extra battery taking up more room/more weight in the back. and i dont want to do another run of 0 gauge

 

[Suicide Bobb 5,000+ posts]

I'm judging partly from what I've read, and partly from experience. I'm running a typical car battery, a 90a alt, 4ga power and 6ga ground, with no big 3 or extra batteries. My RF T1001bd doesn't damage my system too badly, and it's pushing 1600wrms (it's underrated, obviously). Your electrical system is leaps and bounds better than mine, so I don't see any reason why there would be any problems.

 

[Suicide Bobb 5,000+ posts]

An extra battery wouldn't hurt, though. I just don't think you'll need it.

 

[AudioDave]

The value for amps is 14A per 100 watts. Pretty easy math. I have a 300A alt on 2600 and 1 yellow top and it works fine.

 

[robertoyoung08 10+ year member]

I'm judging partly from what I've read, and partly from experience. I'm running a typical car battery, a 90a alt, 4ga power and 6ga ground, with no big 3 or extra batteries. My RF T1001bd doesn't damage my system too badly, and it's pushing 1600wrms (it's underrated, obviously). Your electrical system is leaps and bounds better than mine, so I don't see any reason why there would be any problems.

haha thats true. and i guess anything would be better than my current stock electrical. my stock electrical consists of 100 amp STOCK alt. optima yellow top battery under hood and STOCK "big 3" (which i guess equals NO big 3) and it does okay. i do get dimming though.

just wondering before i go through with this and buying my stuff.

YOU should do big three at least though lol

 

[robertoyoung08 10+ year member]

The value for amps is 14A per 100 watts. Pretty easy math. I have a 300A alt on 2600 and 1 yellow top and it works fine.

i did my math. rounding, i get a total of 200 amps i need. and i have a yellowtop under the hood too. is yours in the trunk or hood?

your running 2600 watts on an 300 alt?

 

[AudioDave]

Yep and the DMM does just fine with amps. Only have 1 yellow top..under hood. Amps draw is 180A (rated in specs and fuses) and they all only pull around 165 or so. Amps are very efficent. Stock was 105A on the Blazer. So ya I added it first.

 

[robertoyoung08 10+ year member]

what kind of amps are you running?

 

[AudioDave]

PPI Art.

 

[robertoyoung08 10+ year member]

PPI Art.

what kind of alt?

 

[AudioDave]

I got them from a supplier in California. He does not sell retail. If you want I can get you a quote, PM me with make year and model.

 

[FenixAudio 10+ year member]

ohms law man. 14a per 100watts sounds off. buy doing ohms law(e=volts,I=current,P=watts) E x I=P i get 176watts of power per 14ampers @12.6v....if you have a regulated power supply on the amp for 14.4v(14.4x14a=201.6watts) by ohms law i get 201.6watts per 14 ampers drawn. that being said the prior post was a little off in his assessment. now lets say your car has a healthy electrial system and a decent alt. you can usually go to 120% of the current dram of the electrial system for a short ampunt of time. thus we have a stock alt at 105ampers. we can use 120% of that to blast our system at full volume with everything else on also. so we can use 105x 1.20= 126ampers max.

you say your set up runs and 1600watts. lets use ohms law again. to figure current draw we use

P/E=I Power/Voltage= Current

1600/14.4v= 111.11ampers of current draw. this is alot. using that number we need to find the max current draw of the car. usually about 80% of the ttoal of the stock alt. with EVERYTHING ON 105x.80 is 84ampers

now simply add them together and we get a max draw of 84+111=195ampers total draw max.

so id say bigger alt and big three would be perfect. no need for extra batteries.

 

[AudioDave]

ohms law man. 14a per 100watts sounds off. buy doing ohms law(e=volts,I=current,P=watts) E x I=P i get 176watts of power per 14ampers @12.6v....if you have a regulated power supply on the amp for 14.4v(14.4x14a=201.6watts) by ohms law i get 201.6watts per 14 ampers drawn. that being said the prior post was a little off in his assessment. now lets say your car has a healthy electrial system and a decent alt. you can usually go to 120% of the current dram of the electrial system for a short ampunt of time. thus we have a stock alt at 105ampers. we can use 120% of that to blast our system at full volume with everything else on also. so we can use 105x 1.20= 126ampers max.
you say your set up runs and 1600watts. lets use ohms law again. to figure current draw we use

P/E=I Power/Voltage= Current

1600/14.4v= 111.11ampers of current draw. this is alot. using that number we need to find the max current draw of the car. usually about 80% of the ttoal of the stock alt. with EVERYTHING ON 105x.80 is 84ampers

now simply add them together and we get a max draw of 84+111=195ampers total draw max.

so id say bigger alt and big three would be perfect. no need for extra batteries.

The 14A per 100 is standard for alt rebuilders. If you call Wrangler or anyone they say its 14-16A per 100. But that was how I was able to use 1 batt as I said. The math is correct tho I promise. Also remember too that without the extra batts you only have a small reserve to run it on without the car running. Also the alt is at max with a high RPM not idle.