Can i do it with stock electrical??

Here is the layout i'm going for. I have the majority of this stuff already but only half of it is in the car right now.

Red= Owned , Blue= Gotta Buy

Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-P3900MP

Amps:

(TWO) Sony XM-5540's "These Carry 60 Amps Of Internal Fusing Per Amp"

Hifonics TXi1508D "This One Carries 120 Amps Of Internal Fusing" I May Choose a different amp , but same power class so shouldn't make a difference on this question.

Wiring:

1 Run Of Knukoncepts KCA KABLE 1/0

KonFUSED Digital Fuse/Distro Block

4 Gauge Feeding The Hifonics And 8 Gauge Feeding The Sony's

Big 3 In 2 Gauge Welding Cable

Speakers:

(8) 2 in each door and 4 in the rear deckSelenium 6W4P Midbass I actually have a few of these laying around already and i love them. Great Speakers and OH SO LOUD!!

(4) 1 in each A Pillar , and 1 in each doorSelenium ST200 Tweeters

Crossed Over At 4500 Hz With Dayton 2 Way Passives From Parts Express

Subwoofer:

Revolution Designs Audio 15" Sonance D4

 

So , can it be safely done with stock alt , and no secondary battery??

Its a 95 Buick Regal GranSport Fully Decked Out , So i'm pretty sure its running around 100-140 Amp alternator from the factory.

 
Thats a negative. I had my aq2200 (200amp) and my nine.2 (50amps)on a stock 130amp alt and stock battery and voltage would drop into the low 11's and my headlights would give u a lights show. You have a max amp draw of 240 and I had 250 so roughly the same.

 
the real answer is "it depends".ii am running 1900 watts rms (saz 3000 at 2 ohms and a sax100.2 ) with just the big 3 and two 75/35 series yellow tops.my running voltage never drops below 13.0 volts.my factory alternator is rated at 85 amps.

 
It's not good to run it like that no. people can say yeah I do it,it's fine I don't see why you won't have a problem and blah blah blah, the truth is your electrical system wasn't made to run after market system. I would suggest buying what you need rather then buying a new alt or battery or amp, because you're not running a decent electrical flow to it.Or listen to a few of these noobs and blow your **** up //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
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the real answer is "it depends".ii am running 1900 watts rms (saz 3000 at 2 ohms and a sax100.2 ) with just the big 3 and two 75/35 series yellow tops.my running voltage never drops below 13.0 volts.my factory alternator is rated at 85 amps.
Ok he said factory batt.. Not 2 aftermarket batts. He will not be up in the 13+ range with what he has said he will be using.

 
I would run an extra battery. But I also ran a DSC1500.1 and that nice Mobile es with one battery. Also had a 130amp alt and the lights would only dim if the heater or ac was on. Never below 13 though.

 
i will feel it out. With the distro block i'm gonna use i will have a spare 1/0 input so if i do need a extra battery i can just connect the positive of the second battery there and ground from second battery at the strut tower where i will be grounding the amps right??

 
also i will be running the hifonics @ 2 ohms which should only yeild about 90 amp draw max and the sony manuals say 40 amp max current draw in the manual. so its prolly only gonna be around 170 amp draw at full tilt.

 
yea, i would put it together with what you have and watch the voltage closely.if your voltage drops below 12.5v add a big agm battery and you should be good.

 
OK. i kinda factored that in when i was picking everything out. All i will really need to add the batt down the road is some ring terminals , 10 feet of 1/0 and a nice battery box. Will do guys. I will take pictures of it all , it's gonna be a very slow process though. I should have the sub and amps in next week though. But money is tight so i'm sticking with my amped JBL comps up front and rear fill off the deck till i get all the mids and highs. Don't wann start all that until i have every speaker in hand.

 
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