Calling out @Hertz Mafia

[mazdakid 5,000+ posts]

Looks like any old wall without beauty panels to me //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

He's not going to bet I don't care about it.

You realize this just seems like you know you can't back up all the mouth running you've been doing, right? You have made some rather outrageous claims and boasts here and have done less to back them up than almost anybody.

I dont like Usaci tbh. I prefer drag. But its picking up popularity in Cali, so ive been doing it.
That novice 1501-3000 score is loudest score in usa in that class, and thats just with my db drag application. Kick scores have always been a crutch imo. Unless you live in a region that ONLY offers usaci. That cant be held against anyone

I say support whatever org supports your area. Where you meter really doesn't matter so much so long as everybody is on the same page and you''re comparing apples to apples.

I don't really care for meter loud, ear and gut loud is enough for this old dude. But I confess, I would like to break a windshield. Doubt I would ever have the electrical to do it.

Get your act together and do up a nice 3K build with some of those nice TC drivers you have sitting around. 12 years ago or so Mike Singer was breaking his windshield with a pair of LMS 5400s on only 6K. Tune wind tunnel low and pick the right drivers and you can probably pull it off without breaking the bank (or your suspension) with a battery bank.

Imo metering in the kick is about as useful as peak power ratings.

Who cares as long as everybody knows where the metering is done? Most folks who have competed for a couple seasons know what's up.

usaci isnt as easy as people want to believe wit the globe.

Almost everybody gains at the kick. Porting a car like yours up top gains huge at the kick. There's an Integra up by me that does around 156.5-157.1 at the dash but 161 at the kick. Pair of TSNS 15s.

ordered the batcap x8800. lets see how strong it is!

These are the go-to for battery limited classes. Dunno how well just one will hang with music but should be adequate to give you good burp numbers. If you're sticking with just the one battery under the hood you will gain for every run of cable you run back to your amp.

I’m gunna wall a smart car and smoke all of you...

I have high hopes of that body style. I got a Nissan Versa as a rental a couple weeks ago and that looked like it would be amazing for a sound system.

? Lyrics ? Sorry missed your post but ya probably close to there I did 152.6 wired at 2 ohms

2 ohms. You absolute madman!!!

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

https://www.parts-express.com/epique-e220cf-8-8-carbon-fiber-cone-neodymium-driver-8-ohm--295-634

Those look really nice.

Anything over 150 sealed, at lower frequencies in a daily build is good imo. Even a 150.0 at high 30s hz is nice for a daily

Agreed.

What's banging for a wall? I consider walls to do at least 155. 160 is tuff. When you get to 158 it starts getting really hard

I'd consider anything you say as ******** until you can post a number bigger than 148 and small change. The fact that you don't even own an SPL meter makes me wonder how serious you even are about competing.

155 musically at minimum imo. Most walls out here are 55+. If its geared toward #s , high 50s at least

Somewhat vehicle dependent either. There's a couple up my way that sound really impressive that meter poorly. Otherwise I'd say you're about right.

That's the best you can do/build? Did that Furguson member on here who tried to build a wall 4x help you? Looks like a 15 yr old built it.

My big reservation about the build so far is how few layers he used all around. IF you have to brace across the port that's a really bad sign and that piece of wood there will lose output. Otherwise I don't think it looks bad... nothing some bondo, glass, sanding, and paint couldn't make look clean.... if he even cares about looks. I'm more interested in seeing numbers... it's all just more talk until those are posted.

 

[ChaseinBass]

You realize this just seems like you know you can't back up all the mouth running you've been doing, right? You have made some rather outrageous claims and boasts here and have done less to back them up than almost anybody.


I say support whatever org supports your area. Where you meter really doesn't matter so much so long as everybody is on the same page and you''re comparing apples to apples.

Get your act together and do up a nice 3K build with some of those nice TC drivers you have sitting around. 12 years ago or so Mike Singer was breaking his windshield with a pair of LMS 5400s on only 6K. Tune wind tunnel low and pick the right drivers and you can probably pull it off without breaking the bank (or your suspension) with a battery bank.

Who cares as long as everybody knows where the metering is done? Most folks who have competed for a couple seasons know what's up.

Almost everybody gains at the kick. Porting a car like yours up top gains huge at the kick. There's an Integra up by me that does around 156.5-157.1 at the dash but 161 at the kick. Pair of TSNS 15s.

These are the go-to for battery limited classes. Dunno how well just one will hang with music but should be adequate to give you good burp numbers. If you're sticking with just the one battery under the hood you will gain for every run of cable you run back to your amp.

I have high hopes of that body style. I got a Nissan Versa as a rental a couple weeks ago and that looked like it would be amazing for a sound system.

2 ohms. You absolute madman!!!

Lol I was just bein scared //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/blush.gif.99bc659ee2012b7d826165e26fb5eebe.gif remember my first Hd 15 k burst into flames on impact ! Lol no flames but smoked on startup so when I got replacement I was just being overly cautious because I don’t have all the experience a lot of you have and was thinking did wiring to .5 cause the amp to burn up ? But it was just a fluke and after beefing up electrical I changed it back to .5 and been beating on it daily and hardly even gets past warm.

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

https://www.parts-express.com/epique-e220cf-8-8-carbon-fiber-cone-neodymium-driver-8-ohm--295-634

I was actually checking those out just yesterday. That's a phenomenal design, tracking closely with some of the Accuton ceramic drivers. They just need to make sure the QC is in place because it really isn't most of the time for Dayton drivers. I've had to return half a dozen Daytons for bent baskets (with no outside distress on the box), bad glue joints, ticking noises, etc... I'll keep buying them, though. The Esoteric 7" is a killer with some of the best bass I've heard from that size driver. Plus, PE does the return thing as many times as it takes for you to be happy.

Get your act together and do up a nice 3K build with some of those nice TC drivers you have sitting around. 12 years ago or so Mike Singer was breaking his windshield with a pair of LMS 5400s on only 6K. Tune wind tunnel low and pick the right drivers and you can probably pull it off without breaking the bank (or your suspension) with a battery bank.

You know... that was actually pretty motivating, lol.
Not this year, though. The woman, who is extraordinarily supportive of my love for this hobby and loves it herself, won't stand for it as long as their are irons in the fire for home improvement projects. I put a new roof on last fall, I'm currently creating a workout room in our basement, and I have a bathroom remodel coming my way. I told her I would put audio aside to put a proper focus on all that stuff and that put smile on her face. She's a good one so I like the give and take that we have, we get a lot done together and the house needs the updates anyway.

There is a build coming, though, I promise. Probably a very loud sound quality build if I know myself. I just can't see building a straight SPL setup.

2 ohms. You absolute madman!!!

I laughed out loud. And not just because I usually run at 2 ohms, lol.

 

[Hertz Mafia]

Looks like any old wall without beauty panels to me //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif

Umm no. Air gaps all over so he has caulk all over ever seem heavy which means his cuts weren’t straight at all.. metal L brackets on the port wall because it’s built weak.. then that divider in the port is longer then the port and goes into the enclosure. It’s a very very poorly built wall. You can tell by looking at it. I’m not a super good wood worker but damnnn. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/uhoh.gif.c07307dd22ee7e63e22fc8e9c614d1fd.gif after all the crap he talks about how good he is at everything and then he makes this thread. Epic fail

 

[mrj858 10+ year member]

upload to imgur then tag them here.

For some reason that doesn't work for me? All I get is alitte white box no pic....it use to work fine a month or 2 ago and works on other forums

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Umm no. Air gaps all over so he has caulk all over ever seem heavy which means his cuts weren’t straight at all.. metal L brackets on the port wall because it’s built weak.. then that divider in the port is longer then the port and goes into the enclosure. It’s a very very poorly built wall. You can tell by looking at it. I’m not a super good wood worker but damnnn. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/uhoh.gif.c07307dd22ee7e63e22fc8e9c614d1fd.gif after all the crap he talks about how good he is at everything and then he makes this thread. Epic fail

The culk is to help seal the port I guess you don't understand what testing means.

Once it done and looks great you are still going to hate. They have a show 1 hour from me on the 21st.

The trim panels serve as a two part seal and will be sealed from the back and front and glassed over. It's going to be leak free and airtight.

Yes I used sealant where the other ports went And behind the port you can't see but there is a subframe that its screwed into made out of wood for temporary use for tuning. The l brackets are for added strength screwed in with 1/4 lug bolts washers and lock washers.

just goes to show how much you really know because if the box was bad but I promise you it wouldn't be breaking roof braces

 

[mrj858 10+ year member]

4 to 1?

After talking to a few bandpass guys I didn't do the ratio thing, I did what gave me the best bandwidth without sacrificing too much output by moving the sub baffle back and forth before securing it....the ratio it sits at now is around 1.35:1 ratio

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Those look really nice.


Agreed.

I'd consider anything you say as ******** until you can post a number bigger than 148 and small change. The fact that you don't even own an SPL meter makes me wonder how serious you even are about competing.

Somewhat vehicle dependent either. There's a couple up my way that sound really impressive that meter poorly. Otherwise I'd say you're about right.

My big reservation about the build so far is how few layers he used all around. IF you have to brace across the port that's a really bad sign and that piece of wood there will lose output. Otherwise I don't think it looks bad... nothing some bondo, glass, sanding, and paint couldn't make look clean.... if he even cares about looks. I'm more interested in seeing numbers... it's all just more talk until those are posted.

What excatly do I ******** about?

That 147 was last year in stock on my prototype with a 34hz tune bro that's far from a bad number in the trunk that played strong down to 32 and up into the midbass..

The judge heard it and was impressed how musical and loud it was.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

After talking to a few bandpass guys I didn't do the ratio thing, I did what gave me the best bandwidth without sacrificing too much output by moving the sub baffle back and forth before securing it....the ratio it sits at now is around 1.35:1 ratio

you did it inside the cabin? what was the rear chamber t start with? dont have a ton of EXP on BP but i know the theory..

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

I'm currently creating a workout room in our basement, and I have a bathroom remodel coming my way.

So buy half a dozen sheets of 3/4 MDF or cabinet grade ply plus a load of screws and full gallon of wood glue for the remodel then act surprised when you have extra materials left over and you might as well not let them all go to waste, right? ****, I need to do all your thinking for you.

What excatly do I ******** about?

Post some numbers so we can all find out.

 

[mrj858 10+ year member]

you did it inside the cabin? what was the rear chamber t start with? dont have a ton of EXP on BP but i know the theory..

Yeah...was basically a shell then slide the sub baffle back and forth until I got the desired result then Kreg jigged It in to place then used steel L brackets and lag bolts to further secure it...started out as 11 cuft net....it's at about 13.8 cuft net now

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

So buy half a dozen sheets of 3/4 MDF or cabinet grade ply plus a load of screws and full gallon of wood glue for the remodel then act surprised when you have extra materials left over and you might as well not let them all go to waste, right? ****, I need to do all your thinking for you.


Post some numbers so we can all find out.

ordered the alt and battery. if it was stocked id be doing more testing. i killed my battery already.

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

So buy half a dozen sheets of 3/4 MDF or cabinet grade ply plus a load of screws and full gallon of wood glue for the remodel then act surprised when you have extra materials left over and you might as well not let them all go to waste, right? ****, I need to do all your thinking for you.

Love it. That's brilliant, lol.