Cabin Gain?

Once I find out the "spike" should I base my build/enclosure around this tone?
Not for listening! You will generally want to make sure your box, if it has a peak in response, is peaking somewhere else preferably lower.

Reallly the issue of accoustics in a tiny car cabin is incredibly complicated and can change even from one location in the car to another. Dependent not only on box, subs, and tuning, but even what direction subs and ports face, and where they are aimed.

You can pay someone who really knows accoustics to design for you, or do a lot of trial and error, or just do the best you can and enjoy. A car is really an accoustical nightmare and while you gain big output in the low freqnencies, it's generally peaky and comes at a price.

For woofers, I'd go with whatever size you can give up enough space for an optimum box for. There's no replacement for displacement!

 
Cabin gain.

Everything in nature resonates. The larger/heavier it is, the lower the frequency it resonates at. A vehicle is an assembly of many parts that resonate. The combined total of those resonances culminates in an over all resonating frequency of the vehicle. In other words, if you played pink noise (equal output sound at all frequencies), the vehicle resonating will alter your perceived frequency response. If you know this frequency, you can compensate for it, to work for you. If you dont know it, it will fight against you to give an erratic response.

SPL guys tune their boxes to add to this resonance, SQ guys tune their boxes (and sound processor) to level it out. As someone said above, the best way to 'map' your vehicle's resonant frequency is to use a sub/enclosure with a relatively flat or predictable response curve, and see how your vehicle affects it. Once you know this frequency curve, you can either build your SPL setup to mimic it and increase your spike at that frequency, or you can build your SQ setup to adjust for it and get a relatively flat response.

The easiest way to map cabin gain is by using an RTA. If you dont have an RTA, you can use a simple SPL meter and sine waves at various frequencies. If you are interested in delving further into this, I can explain further. This is usually only necessary for comp vehicles (SPL or SQ), while most 'daily' installs assume cabin gain is in the mid 50's to 60 hz range, build an enclosure accordingly, and fine tune any spikes or dips in actual freq response by using an EQ/processor.

 
The other sucky thing that I found when dinking around with my RTA is that the vehicles with huge consoles get another peak in the 250 Hz range that needs to be smoothed out. While I like using the ever perfect sub built to the .707 Qtc alignment with a RTA to measure the vehicle and design the subwoofer enclosure, those extra peaks on the high end don't show up until I get to tuning. In fact, I thought my measurement microphone was broken the first time I saw a 10 dB spike at 250 Hz, so I purchased another one. Same result! I fixed the issue by playing around with crossover points and as a result it only took 2 dB of cut in the 200 Hz range to smooth the peak out.

 
I have a RF 360.2 crossover so I hopefully will be able to work out some of these so called "dips". I'm really wanting to try the 8's in a some kind of ported box, but not quite sure about the design yet. Does this sub play well into the higher sub frequencies?

 
It must be said that cabin gain should not be confused with a single resonance of any environment. In any environment a resonance occures though, but is not the entire idea behind cabin gain. Within an enclosed area, even your subwoofer box, resonances do occur, that not even the golden rule can control. It is based on the build up of pressure from sound waves at specific frequencies correlating with specific distances, much like the common known transmission line tuning idea, which that is even more complex than a resonance and should not be considered a tuning at all. Nor should an enclosure with reflection paths. I.e. your vehicle. As we know, each frequency has its own length of propagation. For this, the full wave propagation is frequency dependant. This is why different volumes of compression has different excited frequencies (modes), such as your vehicle. So, at these distances, once met with the full wave propagated frequency, a mode occurs. The actual cabin gain in a vehicle is due to an acoustically small compression in relation to low frequency response. Because frequencies below 150Hz, known as Bass frequencies, are much longer in wavelength than any dimension of your vehicle. So, because the wavelength is longer, it is cut into pieces when propagated to full distance of the wavelength. This seperation causes the frequency of interest to travel the same path of propagation more than once. Since timing and reflection losses come into play based on distance traveled, these wavelengths add to the output of the original propagated path of sound from the frequency mode, and creates the gain of that frequency at specific points in the environment. Until the point where the frequency drops output tp -60d+, it adds to the original response gain. It is at these full wavelength distances that this occurs, and within half the distance, as well as a quarter of the distance. It is because of this acoustically small environment that we consider quarterwave theory more of an interest. Because we are able to fit quarter waves into a vehicle in most cases.

Though there are no general rules for calculating cabin gain, the reflection losses, as well as dampening that occurs during this propagated signal, can be figured for using very complex algorithms related to decibel pressure and intensity. For this, cabin gain can be figured for every frequency in the spectrum, as long as we know the distances each frequency travels, the time it takes to travel that distance, the losses involved, the position of the point of reference and point of listener, and the point of -60dB referenced at a specific location, we can figure for what each frequency does when it causes gain from reflection. And because different propagation paths exists, mainly omnidirectional, which creates a near virtual infinite propagation path, seperated by direct propagation, and three other main propagation techniques, we can calculate the gain of every frequency at every point in the vehicle.

This allows us to then fully gain a more accurate idea of sound intensity based on an entire response at each position. That is the basics of cabin gain and what it does for us. Now, explaining each part of it is a different story. If anything is off, such as dampening factors of specific materials, then the response gain becomes less accurate.

Here is the kicker that helps us in car audio.....because it is based on compression and expansion, we can reach a point where cabin gain is less important. An example would be utilizing 12 12s in a crx for example. With a proper enclosure and compression ratio between the enclosure and cabin volume, cabin gain becomes great at all frequencies in the passband, and acts much like being inside a box, where two great things happen...1. Phase issues are reduced majorly, and 2. Response smoothness increases majorly. This is why doing this is not considered great designing in my eyes, because anyone with basic carpentry and electrical skills can obtain this. Its when the ratio of enclosure to cabin is not equal to balanced compression where the design can become cabin dependant, and relying on gain is essential. Those are my basic thoughts on it all.....so far.

 
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