Building the BEST system

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

Yeah, i'd trust nate's alts (excessiveamperage.com) they are great and cheaper...read his FAQ's...he uses underdrive pulley so the alt cuts-on at 900 rpms. SO, it states it will give you 200 amps of current at any point after that. Ohio generator is good, but they cost mass!! good luck, peace

NG

 

[OGButch 10+ year member]

Yeah, i'd trust nate's alts (excessiveamperage.com) they are great and cheaper...read his FAQ's...he uses underdrive pulley so the alt cuts-on at 900 rpms. SO, it states it will give you 200 amps of current at any point after that. Ohio generator is good, but they cost mass!! good luck, peace
NG

I think I am probably going to go with ExcessiveAmperage. com for my alt. I will have to replace my battery and the cables for sure too.

 

[OGButch 10+ year member]

Is there a webpage you can look at Dom's stuff??

Not that I could find, just his email address and he will send you a quote.

Dominick@tds.net

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

It does seem like a waste to have speakers (HD's) with only 85 watts behind them and being cabable of handeling 180.

I hate to muddy the waters when it seems you have about made up you mind on most everything, but it is not a waste to run less than RMS (even if it is much less) to a set of speakers. Just because they can take the extra power doesn't mean they need it to sound good. Also you don't need nearly the same amount of power to run your rear speakers as you do the front. You don't want the same volume from the rear as the front, so you can go with less power. If I were in your shoes, I would get the us Acoustics 2100 for the front stage use the money saved over the 4085 to get a better set of components for the front and run the rear speakers, if you must have them, off the head unit.

I saw later in the thread where I think you misread what another poster had said. If you want SQ a sealed box is the way to go. If you are more interested in volume, ported is the way to go.

 

[Vausen 10+ year member]

Here is a little more mud for the waters.

I'd hold off on the electrical upgrades to see how your system does stock. I've got an '89 Prelude with a stock alt. that does just fine with 200W up front and 1100 to my sub. I only dim a little bit if I crank it all the way up. I've heard some people say a cap. will help with just minor dimming and you won't be out $500.

Make sure to upgrade the magic 3 wires under the hood, +alt to +batt, neg. batt to engine block, engine block to frame. I installed 8 gauge on each and left the stock wire.

No one has suggested a 12A from Elemental Designs yet, edesignaudio.com. I've got one and love it! Very loud and good SQ sealed. I plan on porting it and I've heard you loose very little SQ but gain big time on the SPL. Dual 2ohm, 1000Watts and looks awesome IMHO.

One last thing. I'd read some more reviews on front components. The CDT's sound great and are cheap but lots of people say higher end Focal or JL XR lines sound better (but cost more). Do you want in your face tweets or more laid back? CDT's are laid back on axis type speakers. Depends what you want.

 

[Vausen 10+ year member]

Another thing to think about. How much bass do you need/want? My ed12A w/1KW sealed can overpower the rest of the music pretty easily (i.e. ears get muffled sounding in 2 minutes and have to yell to be heard, rear view mirror bounces around and points at the ground after about 2 bass notes). For a daily driver who wants sound quality do you really need 1KW? Go with a smaller amp, 400W-600W and something like the O series from Elemental. It will still get plenty loud for a daily driver, have great SQ, and won't tax the electrical system nearly as much. Again, all depends on what you are looking for. Are you trying to build a street beater? If so go with the XXX ported with 2KW.

 

[OGButch 10+ year member]

How much bass do you need/want? My ed12A w/1KW sealed can overpower the rest of the music pretty easily (i.e. ears get muffled sounding in 2 minutes and have to yell to be heard, rear view mirror bounces around and points at the ground after about 2 bass notes). For a daily driver who wants sound quality do you really need 1KW? Go with a smaller amp, 400W-600W .

I agree with you, I do not need tons of bass. The most important thing to me is the music. so a samller amp would do fine (about 500 watts)

Here is a little more mud for the waters.
I'd hold off on the electrical upgrades to see how your system does stock. I've got an '89 Prelude with a stock alt. that does just fine with 200W up front and 1100 to my sub. I only dim a little bit if I crank it all the way up.

Make sure to upgrade the magic 3 wires under the hood, +alt to +batt, neg. batt to engine block, engine block to frame. I installed 8 gauge on each and left the stock wire.

One last thing. I'd read some more reviews on front components. The CDT's sound great and are cheap but lots of people say higher end Focal or JL XR lines sound better (but cost more). Do you want in your face tweets or more laid back? CDT's are laid back on axis type speakers. Depends what you want.

I ight wait a little bit on the alternator, but if I do get I got a good price from excess amperage. I dont' really think I would get a Cap. I have heard more bad than good things about putting one in you car. People always say if you dim get a better alternator.

I read the article about the "Big 3" and was going to replace those when I got the new Alternator.

I have also hear a lot about the Focal speakers, but haven't heard anything about JL audio except there subs and a little about their amps. As forthe in the face tweets or laid back I didn't know there was a difference. I have never had a car with tweeters before and come to think of it I have never been in a car with tweeters befor. I don't have much experience in that area.

 

[OGButch 10+ year member]

I hate to muddy the waters when it seems you have about made up you mind on most everything, but it is not a waste to run less than RMS (even if it is much less) to a set of speakers. Just because they can take the extra power doesn't mean they need it to sound good. Also you don't need nearly the same amount of power to run your rear speakers as you do the front. You don't want the same volume from the rear as the front, so you can go with less power. If I were in your shoes, I would get the us Acoustics 2100 for the front stage use the money saved over the 4085 to get a better set of components for the front and run the rear speakers, if you must have them, off the head unit.
I saw later in the thread where I think you misread what another poster had said. If you want SQ a sealed box is the way to go. If you are more interested in volume, ported is the way to go.

I was probably going to get the higher end speakers for the front components and not power them with the full amount of power (180 watts). I noticed on The Zeb that the prices for the CDT's I am looking at are the same $200 no matter which I get (the CL-61 or the HD-62EF). Given that choice I will go for the HD's.

I don't know anything about Acoustic 2100.

I thought sealed was better for SQ. I was going to get a sealed box anyway for space reasons. I like a good sounding system, but I also want a little bit of usable trunk too.