Building a subwoofer?

[Milk Mayne 10+ year member]

So I've decided that I want to try my hand a building a subwoofer from an old Type-X motor I have laying around. However, since this is my first time trying something like this, I've got a few questions for you experienced builders.

The motor has a 3" gap, and has six connection points; when I've looked at baskets online, none really have any information as far as the connection to the motor. Is six lug standard? Or do they typically not come predrilled? Most sites with parts just state the spoke design.

How do you go about connecting the leads to a) the voice coil, and b) any terminals or direct connects? I'd assume the direct connects would need be soldered to the lead? Is there a rule of thumb as far as extra allowance (slack) to ensure it doesn't tear during excursion?

How does the former and spider connect to the cone? What is necessary when it comes to stacking multiple spiders? What determines the power handling? I've seen sites that are basing power handling on the leads used.

Wow, sorry about the lengthy-ness of this post. Two more questions. Where's a good place (preferably a one-stop-shop) for parts? I'm currently looking at fixmyspeaker.com and they seem pretty good. And does anyone happen to know where I can find any literature on the subject? I've looked all over the web, but can only come across stuff for enclosures.

Thanks in advance.

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[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

@SPLaudio; can point u in the right direction

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

So I've decided that I want to try my hand a building a subwoofer from an old Type-X motor I have laying around. However, since this is my first time trying something like this, I've got a few questions for you experienced builders.
The motor has a 3" gap, and has six connection points; when I've looked at baskets online, none really have any information as far as the connection to the motor. Is six lug standard? Or do they typically not come predrilled? Most sites with parts just state the spoke design.

How do you go about connecting the leads to a) the voice coil, and b) any terminals or direct connects? I'd assume the direct connects would need be soldered to the lead? Is there a rule of thumb as far as extra allowance (slack) to ensure it doesn't tear during excursion?

How does the former and spider connect to the cone? What is necessary when it comes to stacking multiple spiders? What determines the power handling? I've seen sites that are basing power handling on the leads used.

Wow, sorry about the lengthy-ness of this post. Two more questions. Where's a good place (preferably a one-stop-shop) for parts? I'm currently looking at fixmyspeaker.com and they seem pretty good. And does anyone happen to know where I can find any literature on the subject? I've looked all over the web, but can only come across stuff for enclosures.

Thanks in advance.

Hit me up with any questions via PM if you like.

First of all, type X isn't exactly "off the shelf" so common parts may not fit. You will want some calipers to measure the coil gap and you will need a tape measure to measure frame and spider landing.

Once you have all the parts it'll be pretty obvious how things go together. I don't know off hand what the extra terminals do on the X IIRC something do do with simplifying parralel or series-ing the coils?

I'm not a huge fan of PSi parts, but for one stop shopping he is likely to have everything. SPL audio on here will have things, Patrick at Robot Underground also has a good selection of parts (though mostly TC stuff). You can get various parts for less if you know somebody, but typically you'll need to make big orders and after you buy 10-20 of everything, pay for shipping from 3 different places, etc. you might as well have just taken the hit one-stopping it.

You will want some good quality CA glue and Amazing Goop glue. CA glue for everythign except the dustcap (you can use it, but goop is better). Most hobby supply stores will have CA glue, very thick and/or rubberized is best and you will be happy if you invest in some accelerator spray.

I'm building up a new sub right now. I'll post up a thread in an hour or so when she's done.

 

[Milk Mayne 10+ year member]

Once you have all the parts it'll be pretty obvious how things go together. I don't know off hand what the extra terminals do on the X IIRC something do do with simplifying parralel or series-ing the coils?
I'm not a huge fan of PSi parts, but for one stop shopping he is likely to have everything. SPL audio on here will have things, Patrick at Robot Underground also has a good selection of parts (though mostly TC stuff). You can get various parts for less if you know somebody, but typically you'll need to make big orders and after you buy 10-20 of everything, pay for shipping from 3 different places, etc. you might as well have just taken the hit one-stopping it.

I should've clarified, it's the motor only. I realized when I disassembled the woofer that the unique basket would've been all but useless if I was to ever to anything with it in the future. Thanks for the recommendations for parts suppliers, and i'll be checking in on your build to see how it goes!

 

[skylineTT 10+ year member]

I had Corey @SPLaudio; build me a 10 out of a type X motor so he would probably know exactly what you need to do. I know he had to machine some parts specifically for this motor to fit a normal 12 spoke basket so it isn't the easiest task.

 

[SPLaudio 5,000+ posts]

I have done many many type x subs.

the 10" type x the top plate needs to be poped and bored to fit any decent coil.

the 12" yet has a large gap that you can use a really fat 4 layer or a 8layer.

the bolt pattern is not standard I remb this.

standard bolt pattern is 6 x 5"

you will want a 4,12 spoke or a tc sounds

I have all the parts if you want to assemble, order a kit or send in to have me build with a warrenty

 

---------- Post added at 07:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:04 PM ----------

 

i stock everything except glue to sell...

 

[Milk Mayne 10+ year member]

I have done many many type x subs.the 10" type x the top plate needs to be poped and bored to fit any decent coil.

the 12" yet has a large gap that you can use a really fat 4 layer or a 8layer.

the bolt pattern is not standard I remb this.

standard bolt pattern is 6 x 5"

you will want a 4,12 spoke or a tc sounds

I have all the parts if you want to assemble, order a kit or send in to have me build with a warrenty

 

---------- Post added at 07:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:04 PM ----------

 

i stock everything except glue to sell...

It is a motor from a 12. You said that you recall the bolt pattern not being standard, what issue does this present? Would that mean I would need to drill a pattern accordingly to be able to mount? And do mind answering my questions in the 3rd and 4th paragraphs in my original post?

As much as I would love to have one of your infamous subs, this is something I've always wanted to give a shot. Thanks though! BTW, is there any issue using this motor (which came from a 12), and designing a 10 out of it? The amount of cargo space in a Z is extremely limited. The last flush box I built clocked in at just a bit of one cube, so a 12 is out of the question since I intend to keep a ported application.

 

[SPLaudio 5,000+ posts]

was far tooo many questions to address make them short and number them easy way to answer...

I have built to handle 2000rms ez. its a really easy motor to work with...

 

[Milk Mayne 10+ year member]

Gotcha.

1. How are tinsel leads connected to the coil/former?

2. Is there a rule of thumb when it comes to slack allowed in the leads? Do they NEED to be sewn to the spider?

3. How would you attach the former/spider assembly to the cone?

4. Do you know of any webpages that go into details about construction?

I think that'll cover it. Thanks a ton.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Gotcha.
1. How are tinsel leads connected to the coil/former?

They must connect to the leads from the coil. Depends on where they line up, sometimes under the cone, sometimes right where the tripple joint is. After leads from coil are fastened to tinsels (crimp and/or solder) you just glue them down wherever to keep them rigid

2. Is there a rule of thumb when it comes to slack allowed in the leads? Do they NEED to be sewn to the spider?

Many spiders come with leads sewn in. Otherwise you'll need to drill holes through the cone, and yeah, you'll need to leave enough slack that the cone can extend in or out fully without putting tension on them

3. How would you attach the former/spider assembly to the cone?

CA glue, and don't skimp!.... I already addressed this. Some folks use 2 part epoxy or goop, which will work, but CA is very fast and can be disolved by acetone (to possibly recycle coils later if you tear down the sub before burning the coil)

4. Do you know of any webpages that go into details about construction?

I'm about to post a thread... I've posted one before and there should be others here.

I think that'll cover it. Thanks a ton.

You're welcome