Building a new system!

[oilstain]

Hi all, I am building a system for the first time in a while, but the stock system in my 2006 Jaguar XJ is weaksauce. I have some amps from a previous build that I will reuse. I’ll post questions in the appropriate areas, but I’m looking to do a quite loud system for low bucks.

I’ve currently got an Orion HCCA D2400 Mono, good for (RMS):

• 4 Ohms: 425 watts x 1 chan.

• 2 Ohms: 800 watts x 1 chan.

• 1 Ohm: 1200 watts x 1 chan.

As well as an Infinity Reference 7540a 4 channel, good for (RMS):

• 4 Ohms: 111 watts x 4 chan.

• 2 Ohms: 139 watts x 4 chan.

• 4 Ohm: 278 watts x 2 chan.

Additionally, though I don’t see that I’ll need it, a very old, but perfectly functional Phoenix Gold XS2300 that from memory has a low-pass at 80HZ, but will also do full range, good for (RMS):

• 4 Ohms: 75 watts x 2 chan.

• 2 Ohms: 150 watts x 2 chan.

• 4 Ohm: 300 watts x 1 chan.

So I’ve got plenty of juice!

Subs:

I don’t want to take up much trunk space, so I think I’ll probably stick with a single 12, or maybe 2 10s if I can build very efficient and small box. Carpentry is not a problem.

I need help with sub choices, I’ll probably hunt craigslist for the used discounts. The trick is, I’d like to make the most out of that Orion and get something that will match nicely. I’m looking for an inexpensive 12 that is most likely dual voice-coil 2 Ohm each that can handle 1000 watts. Or, possibly two 10s that I can wire to 1 Ohm, but they need to be happy with a small enclosure.

Any thoughts? Is this impossible?

General:

Unfortunately, I need to buy an LC7i or equivalent to interface with my stock system. The stock system also controls the HVAC and some car settings. It’s got a weird, proprietary, optical link system, so simply replacing the head unit isn’t possible. (Jaguar) I’ll do some further research, but I believe I need to sum at least three speakers per side to get the full range signal. I do know that there is a bass drop when I turn up the current system, so the Bass Restoration will be necessary.

I’d love to run a PPI DEQ8 or the MiniDSP2x8 or something like that, but it’s out of the budget currently.

Speakers:

I have no idea if I want to find a decent bargain 6.5 + tweet component set (used is fine) or try to build something with the pro audio stuff. I like the idea of pro-audio in that it is built to be loud and when installed well, sounds pretty dang good, but costs less than a budget component set (if I’m able to go active, but that would depend on me getting the MiniDSP, so it gets expensive again, but comes with a bunch of advantages)

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[UGHH]

Need a budget to help you choose

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

Got a pair of sa8 v2 subs. But a budget will be good

 

[oilstain]

Holy jebus, those are some serious looking 8s!

The reason I didn't start with a budget is because I'm going to try to find good used deals, so even though I want to keep my sub-money-outlay under $200, I don't want to only look at subs that retail for under $200. But yeah, 200-250. I can build a box.

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

Holy jebus, those are some serious looking 8s!
The reason I didn't start with a budget is because I'm going to try to find good used deals, so even though I want to keep my sub-money-outlay under $200, I don't want to only look at subs that retail for under $200. But yeah, 200-250. I can build a box.

$260 I'll send you these sa8s

 

[CSCStang]

How about 2 nvx vsw 10's? 150.00 shipped

 

[oilstain]

What kind of output can I expect with two sa8s? I can't imagine they could hit as hard or as low as a single 12, but how about a 10? Realistically, how low will they reach with some authority?

The reason they've peaked my interest is that the jag has two 8s in the rear shelf with the stock system. I would love to reuse the mounting position and build a box to their specs under the shelf and have a very low profile set up. Having it cabin-firing and not taking up much trunk space would be ideal.

My other option is to do the same idea with the 10s or a 12, but I'd have to get pretty creative with the enclosure to hang it off the bottom of the rear deck and fire through the stock 8" holes. The deck is not large enough to mount 10s directly, there's a mechanical sun shade thing in the way.

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

They can get pretty loud and hit the lows well in the right box I've also seen them take a lot more than rated in power

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

Signal summing alone is not likely to get you a flat 20-20,000Hz signal, but it might get you something that looks like a roller coaster ride. Your best option if you really do care about great sound and not just a lot of boom is to pick up a used JBL MS-8. It will do the signal summing and a lot more with automatic calibration. This is the shotgun approach, but it can work extremely well. The other "right" way to do this is to RTA the electrical signals from your factory amplifier, determine your channels to sum and whether you need to reverse polarity to counter a phase shift at your crossover points, determine what kind of input EQ you need to do on your DSP, then once you have your flat(ish) full range signal you tune to your desired curve. Does this sound like something you can manage on your own?