Buck Box Designs - Refreshed Thread

Uhhhh......this is a 15". 7500w, 5" voice coil. Almost 12" diameter motor. Fs of 23.7 hz.....ooooooo baby I'm going to have fun with this design.

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Looks how I thought it would with black carpet or stain and purple splashes. Now combine that with the purple Fi cones and it will look really good. I even thought about trying to find a set of purple LED's somehow but not worried about it.
 
Pride S5 15" (7500w RMS / 5" VC) side firing in a series 6th order. Going in a quad cab pickup truck cab.

Dude! This woofer weighs 125 pounds and is almost 12" deep. So......that was difficult to layout.

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This is the box I did for 2 DD 9918's. The owner is going to change amps and get away from full bridge.

I really don't think most full bridge amps perform like half bridge amps (more expensive and larger amps). These are literally DD's highest powered ferrite subs, and they can take tons of power. When overpowering subs and pushing them to the extremes on music, where you're changing frequencies and impedance (amp load based on sub movement, basically), and the sub is cone is having high travel, then you really need an amp that can handle high excursion. A 4" VC woofer with a powerful motor and long throw, that cause a lot of energy to be fed back into the amp. Low notes or playing far away from port frequency can cause such high excursion (like xmax), and that stresses the amp. The fundamental way a half-bridge is wired seems to allow the amp to dampen itself by using the power supply, aka all of your batteries and what not. Many full bridges don't seem to have the same type of dampening factor, so they lose control of the woofer's cone earlier or more easily. This isn't a guess, because I know a lot of people with 8kw+ systems, and they all run what seems to be half-bridge amps. I hear the same stories over and over and over about most full bridge sub amps; they just don't perform on music as well.

One of the favorite amp series that I know right now for the high powered builds (8kw+) are the Sundown Salt series. Go look at the dampening factor on that amp. Then, go look at the dampening factor of full bridge amps, if they even have the gal to post it, lol. I swear, that has to be the most overlooked amp stat for subwoofer amps. I seem to rant about it weekly.
 

I was looking over this again. The cool thing is that this box will work without the front port in, and it could be burped that way. These DC's being 4500w rms a piece allowed me to make a huge front chamber. DC's might like small boxes, but they also have some of the highest port speeds that I've seen, which means they really move air. Those 4 15's should have no problem pressurizing that larger chamber, especially with how I tuned the rear and front. That front chamber isn't really just an extra chamber; it's truly tuned to have quite an impact both relative to it's tuning and the gain from such a large chamber and large front port. With lower power woofers, I'm not sure if I would make the front chamber as large as it is. Even the rear port on this box is quite large, as far as port area goes.

There's only so big on port you can go until you run into port resonance issues, which series 6th orders help with. Ports can only be so long before they start acting like t-lines. One of the main reason of doing a series 6th is the port resonance issue. If you want to play stupid lows at high pressure, a series 6th order is a great way to do it. DC's want such big port area, and that makes the port wayyyyy longer than subs that can use little tiny ports. Once you get below 28 hz or so, port lengths just become RIDICULOUSLY long. Gotta watch out for those port resonances on very high powered and very low tuned enclosures.
 
That thing is gonna pressurize some air. I really love DC woofers for bandpasses. I swear DC's 10's, 12's and 15's are the best woofers to use in high powered series 6th orders. 4th orders? Nah, I'd skip on those with DC's, but series 6th? Hell yeah, definitely use some DC's.
 
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