Brutus 1500 Bd Question

teds is right.....I am pretty new to this and dont wanna blow my amp so will someone help me with what each of these mean so i can set them right...sub sonic, bass eq, low pass, phase and level

 
the alt provides the electricity when the car is on. The reason for having your system hooked up to the battery? why simple, because the power goes through the battery, and the battery is easier to connect to than ur alternator. also, if u wanted to listen to ur system while the car is off, u need it to be connected to the battery, because the battery sends the power when the car is off.

ted, u did say somethings that r true, like if your amp is demanding more amps outta ur alternator than it can supply, the battery will drain (u notice the dimming at night on ur headlights).

But in this fella's situation, he is running 2 hifonics 1500's. That total has 240 amps on it. (fuses). A new alt of 200 amps atleast is what this guy is going to need. i suggest selling the caps (useless in ur situation) and even selling the yellowtop unless u plan on listening to ur system when the car is off.

thank you

 
teds is right.....I am pretty new to this and dont wanna blow my amp so will someone help me with what each of these mean so i can set them right...sub sonic, bass eq, low pass, phase and level
Subsonic, leave off, unless you have a ported box, if you do then we expain how to do that. bass boost, that is somewhat of a volume control hence why many amps have a seperate bass control, if you have a seperate bass control, set the one on the amp up all the way. Low pass may be set anywhere you desire, This will block higher frequencies from entering your subwoofer. Ideally you would determine how low your speakers can play and cut them off at that frequency and set your sub to go up to that level. As for level, turn it all the way down, trun you head unit up all the way with a song with major bass(actually like 3/4 of what it goes up to, and this is the highest it should ever go) and turn up your gain until you get any audible distortion. then back it down a little bit. Dont worry about phase

 
your car runs off the battery. . . if the battery voltage drops to low then yes it will pull it from the alt. but this is very bad for the alt. youhave to think of it as a complete system, if one doesn't work right it will make the other go bad. everything runs at 14.4 with the car running because that is what the alt is charging the battery at.

 
the alt provides the electricity when the car is on. The reason for having your system hooked up to the battery? why simple, because the power goes through the battery, and the battery is easier to connect to than ur alternator. also, if u wanted to listen to ur system while the car is off, u need it to be connected to the battery, because the battery sends the power when the car is off.
ted, u did say somethings that r true, like if your amp is demanding more amps outta ur alternator than it can supply, the battery will drain (u notice the dimming at night on ur headlights).

But in this fella's situation, he is running 2 hifonics 1500's. That total has 240 amps on it. (fuses). A new alt of 200 amps atleast is what this guy is going to need. i suggest selling the caps (useless in ur situation) and even selling the yellowtop unless u plan on listening to ur system when the car is off.

thank you
I still stand by every word I said in that i am right, but that was my suggestion orginally to just forget the battery/caps and upgrade the alternator, however the battery plays a very important role when the car is running with stock alternators. If you dont have a good enough battery to help stabalize the voltage you will kill your alternator in no time.

 
So many inconsistencies in this thread...... Teds147 is correct

Jellyfish420- you alternator only produces 14.4 volts when car is running at REDLINE //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/clap.gif.178cba2c538c68e720c727fcb024b19c.gif

Jplaya- I hope you know you are not even seeing 1500rms from JUST ONE of those on your stock alternator- complete overkill for a non- competing newb on a stock alternator- take care of that ASAP

 
i hooked my battery/alt. to a tester at work the other day and my alt. was charging @ 14.1V with the car at idle! you dont have to redline anything to get your alt. that high, some put out more volts than others. . . it just depends on the windings when they were made.

 
but i do agree with everyone else that an extra battery or caps is just stupid, in my first stereo in a beretta i had a second battery because i thought it was nessasary, and kept my stock alt. i ended up changing my alt every month because it couldnt keep up with charging 2 batterys.

 
your car runs off the battery. . . if the battery voltage drops to low then yes it will pull it from the alt. but this is very bad for the alt. youhave to think of it as a complete system, if one doesn't work right it will make the other go bad. everything runs at 14.4 with the car running because that is what the alt is charging the battery at.
You have this backwards...your car runs off the alternator down to approximately 12.5 volts, at which point the alternator is putting out around the same voltage the cells in the battery are charged to. Only when the car is off are you running the electronics of the car solely on the battery.

 
You have this backwards...your car runs off the alternator down to approximately 12.5 volts, at which point the alternator is putting out around the same voltage the cells in the battery are charged to. Only when the car is off are you running the electronics of the car solely on the battery.
Thank you!//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

That is exactaly what I have been taught!

 
just today, i was told by a MECP Certified Master Installer that the system runs off the alt while the car is on and that extra batteries are for running your system with the car off

 
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