Brain overload, am I making this to difficult?

NismoV240
10+ year member

Junior Member
Hello and thanks in advance for any help. I am a Noob at this car audio stuff, although not completely ignorant. I've been a member here for a while and have done ALOT of reading and find myself adding more questions to my original questions then getting answers for my original questions. So first,

I just picked up a pair of jl audio "10w3v3's, with a ported box for cheap. I had a 12" mtx 4500 series before that I got for $20 with box hooked up to a jl audio 300/2 amp. Now these w3's have there own hook ups for each speaker, so I'm running 150 watts at them max. I've had these less then 24 hours so I haven't had a chance to pop one out to check if they are 2 or 4 ohm or DVC or SVC. I will do this within 24 hours. My questions are this,

1. Should I get a mono block amp, or an upgraded 2 channel. If I go with mono I'll have to wire then in series or in parallel.

2. Which is better series or parallel if I go this route.

3. If I'm running 2 subs off a mono amp is the wattage automatically distributed evenly between both subs? Ie a 600 watt rms will distribute 300 to each sub of wired properly?

4. I think regardless of resistance weather its 2 or 4 ohms the rms rating is 400 for these subs. Should I try to send them less then reccomended to prevent blowing them?

Again thanks for the help. I'm typing on my phone so sorry if there's misspellings and what not. I've tried to research as much as possible but find myself getting deeper and deeper into the chaos. This will be my 12th different sub set-up in this car. I know and understand the basics, but am eager to learn the right way. Again thanks,

Charlie

 
just use the search button and read around man, the stuff you're asking is a lot simpler than you think, it's all basics and is all over the forum and many others. Did you take physics at school?

 
**** it, I'll be more useful than that.

1) monoblock

2) depends on amp and voice coils. Look up ohms law.

3) yes, if wired properly

4) gain it correctly to send them clean unclipped rated power and they'll be fine

 
Hello and thanks in advance for any help. I am a Noob at this car audio stuff, although not completely ignorant. I've been a member here for a while and have done ALOT of reading and find myself adding more questions to my original questions then getting answers for my original questions. So first,
I just picked up a pair of jl audio "10w3v3's, with a ported box for cheap. I had a 12" mtx 4500 series before that I got for $20 with box hooked up to a jl audio 300/2 amp. Now these w3's have there own hook ups for each speaker, so I'm running 150 watts at them max. I've had these less then 24 hours so I haven't had a chance to pop one out to check if they are 2 or 4 ohm or DVC or SVC. I will do this within 24 hours. My questions are this,

1. Should I get a mono block amp, or an upgraded 2 channel. If I go with mono I'll have to wire then in series or in parallel.

2. Which is better series or parallel if I go this route.

3. If I'm running 2 subs off a mono amp is the wattage automatically distributed evenly between both subs? Ie a 600 watt rms will distribute 300 to each sub of wired properly?

4. I think regardless of resistance weather its 2 or 4 ohms the rms rating is 400 for these subs. Should I try to send them less then reccomended to prevent blowing them?

Again thanks for the help. I'm typing on my phone so sorry if there's misspellings and what not. I've tried to research as much as possible but find myself getting deeper and deeper into the chaos. This will be my 12th different sub set-up in this car. I know and understand the basics, but am eager to learn the right way. Again thanks,

Charlie
In a parallel circuit the voltage stays the same and the current adds up, so depending on the way you wire the subs you can have the same power going through the subs.

 
In a parallel circuit the voltage stays the same and the current adds up, so depending on the way you wire the subs you can have the same power going through the subs.
You really want to re phrase that.

In a circuit like this we assume impedance = resistance and V=IR where V is voltage, I is current, and R is total resistance. P=IV where P is power, V is voltage and I is current.

For wiring in series: Rtotal = R1 + R2 + R3 .... etc

For wiring in parallel: Rtotal = 1/((1/R1)+(1/R2)+(1/R3).....etc)

And in parallel OR series, the subs will be getting the same power, as long as the voice coils are wired the same on each sub.

In reality none of these will be exactly correct for the AC circuits we are running BUT they are a close approximation without many more very complicated formulas and experimentation.

 
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go with a monoblock.

wire it according to your subs ohm rating.

set gain accordingly. you really can't go wrong.

Math will give you the exact answer, however even just listening to how you adjust your gain; you will know when too much is being powered to the subs.

remember, bass boost and all that stuff is off when doing gain. or if youre going to use it.. max it out first then set gain.. although i do not recommend this.. personal opinion.

 
get the model # on the subs,then id sit down for a moment..relax/beer in my case/and go from there rather than jumping to all this kaos when you dont even know what ohms the subs are yet????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????/

 
go with a monoblock.
wire it according to your subs ohm rating.

set gain accordingly. you really can't go wrong.

Math will give you the exact answer, however even just listening to how you adjust your gain; you will know when too much is being powered to the subs.

remember, bass boost and all that stuff is off when doing gain. or if youre going to use it.. max it out first then set gain.. although i do not recommend this.. personal opinion.
Set your gain with a dmm. Just do it, don't try and do it by ear. And leave bass boost alone as said, set it to zero.

 
Thanks for the replys. I used search and read a few of the stickies. I'm more on the mechanical side of cars not so much electrical. Thanks for the quick responses. I'll pull a sub out here in the Next 2 hours during my lunch break and inform you guys of the details.

 
Thanks for the replys. I used search and read a few of the stickies. I'm more on the mechanical side of cars not so much electrical. Thanks for the quick responses. I'll pull a sub out here in the Next 2 hours during my lunch break and inform you guys of the details.
sounds great..if another amp needed..have you a budget in mind,and are you wanting a used,or brand new amp? i ask this because you can really find a great amp(i may even have a couple)used that may out perform a newer amp for the money as well

 
sounds great..if another amp needed..have you a budget in mind,and are you wanting a used,or brand new amp? i ask this because you can really find a great amp(i may even have a couple)used that may out perform a newer amp for the money as well
Used works for me. I obviously will have a JL 300/2 I can trade. I know it's under powering these subs. Lmk what you got and yes I do have a budget. I'd like to keep amp under $200 and prefer class D.

 
This is what I got

8133f91c.jpg


 
Set your gain with a dmm. Just do it, don't try and do it by ear. And leave bass boost alone as said, set it to zero.
Yea i know thats the best way. Not Sure if OP knows how to, so i simplified it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
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NismoV240

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