bridge this amp and you'll get 1600, you can just lower the gain so the sub only sees 600. Best thing is, you can always get a big sub amp later and use this amp to power mids and highs when you want to do a real nice mids and highs setup. Go quick, there's only 2 left on sale for 200. usually they 500 dollars.
i already changed my mind and ditched the idea of shallow mount, i have plenty of different options now //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/up2something.gif.dd110ecf3ae4b76050d87598f2f8de7c.gif
well that's another topic i wanna bring....there seems to be many different thinking about it....How much channel power should i get for a sub or speakers ?? for a 600w rms sub, some people told me that 1000w rms is enough, some people say double it, so i'd need 1200w, now you are telling me that 1600w rms is good !
its always good to have more power than what you need. just because its 1600 watts bridged doesnt mean you have to use all 1600. An amp setting on its @ss barely lifting a finger providing squeaky clean power is gonna live longer and provide better sound quality and output than an amp thats overworked and overstressed and overheated. Just that particular ct sounds amp is pretty flexible as to how you can use it. can be used for a big mids and highs setup or a subwoofer setup. For me, i'm using it to power two pairs of 10 inch midbass in my doors. Right now we are using it to test my buddy's sub setup. Only telling you because its on sale for 200 dollars shipped. An equivalent 2 channel would cost a poopload otherwise.
yeah i know that but how far can i go, i dont wanna blow my speakers ?? Since i'll be running through DSP, should i increase the output level, get a bigger amp and set the gain to its minimum ? Im totaly new to DSP but that's the way i wanna go now.
if your ears are that of a normal person's, you will tap out before that happens and your speakers will have cues aka bottoming out or breaking up and sounding really peaky, its HARD to miss. That CT amp has a remote gain knob that has a clipping indicator that flashes red when you are approaching the max limit aka danger zone so its pretty idiot proof.
i see that you're wanting to sell this amp //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif but i'm not buying anything right now, i always make fully concerned decisions. I'm evaluating all my options and assimilating everything people around me have to say before i do anything //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/nerd.gif.c6fa51ddf7ff75f1c0371fbc648f70ae.gif I,m not an EE so i don't know **** ! ahahah
no thats my amp, get your own!!!!! Its on sale by the manufacturer new right now. Its where i got it from.
oh i see,
you have a gain setting on the amp and a volume and sub level setting on your head unit. Those determine how much power your amp puts out and how much power your sub/speaker sees. Hence why we said you dont have to use all 2600 watts. I ran a 7k amp to a 250 rms old school JL w3 12 with no issue as a temp setup.
see i really have to do my homework on that....
That's great info !
one last thing....i set the voltage according to the RMS rating of the speaker i guess ?
