Box Build RE MT 18

Sorry for not updating in a while, caught up with building/ new years parties n such.

Heres a few pics of whats happened that last few times i worked on it:

i ****ed up and cut the inner baffle at 18" (supposed to be 17")





My handy router with a 3/4" round-over for ports.





homemade aeros:





Picked these up for about $7.50 a piece at homedepot (250 watt each)

Good for speading up the drying process when its cold out.



 
Ended up just using that 18" hole as extra bracing so tripple baffle i guess:



T-nuts i used, the bolts sucked, got stripped out and to long.



Heres the box with sloppy port job (held in place with fiberglass):

with





So this is about where i ****ed up. The hole was a little to big so i tried adding some fiberglass to strengthen the t-nut areas.

Didnt MIX the hardener well enough and this crap ended up not drying and half of it just got pulled off later:



And fast forward to the sub being test-fitted:



 
And most recent pics of a few things i had to do/fix:







Sealing up the top baffle before i run outta light:





Thats all the pics for now.

When i tested the sub earlier today off 110 watts in my room...

It was very nice, lets just say the cardboard backing on my shelves were rattling at 18hz

 
ports leave much to be desired. I would have coughed up the extra money for some actual aero ports. i think you would see a nice gain with them from what you have now. Nice box build though.

 
If i was rolling in money, i wouldn't mind spending over 100$ just for aero ports. But in this case i had pvc and a good rounder over bit that did the job quite well. I still need to fill in some gaps between the pvc and wood though and smooth it out. Im sure that real aeroports would do a better job though.

I was unable to make a jig to cut 5" holes so those are all freehanded. Cutting that thick pvc was also interesting, i just used my electric hand saw but it was hard to get a straight cut.

The pictures dont really do thoaw ports justice imo.

 
If i was rolling in money, i wouldn't mind spending over 100$ just for aero ports. But in this case i had pvc and a good rounder over bit that did the job quite well. I still need to fill in some gaps between the pvc and wood though and smooth it out. Im sure that real aeroports would do a better job though.

I was unable to make a jig to cut 5" holes so those are all freehanded. Cutting that thick pvc was also interesting, i just used my electric hand saw but it was hard to get a straight cut.

The pictures dont really do thoaw ports justice imo.
you know, if that router accepts 1/2" shank bits...you can get 1.5" round over bits for $56. all you would have to do is add a couple layers to the side that you would round over (outside and inside). would put the standard aero port flares to shame, on the cheap too.

 
ok thats the type of feedback im looking for. Ive had a hard time finding what box the 18 mt's like. I saw some build that had 8.5 cubes with the dual slot ports but besides that i haven't seen any others.
Ill have to shrink the box width wise.
i love the build but u should have kept it at 8.5 cubes

u would have had more autority in the lowend doing 8.5 vs 7

but all in all...good build..birch wood ftmfw!!!!!!!!!!!!!

80

 
you know, if that router accepts 1/2" shank bits...you can get 1.5" round over bits for $56. all you would have to do is add a couple layers to the side that you would round over (outside and inside). would put the standard aero port flares to shame, on the cheap too.
Yeah thats what i was thinking but it turns out my router only has a 1/4" shank i think. I took out that insert and was able to fit in the 1/2"shaft of 3/4"roundover.

I like this method though because its so easy. Once you have a hole somewhat similar to the size of the pipe and the pipe is secured in place, just slide the roundover bearing along the inside of the pipe and you will get a perfect hole.

 
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