BoogerMan's 12k Crossfire build in a 1998 Toyota T100 SR5

[els1989]

I've got a set of add a leafs I'd sell you for 10 bucks from fab tech... They should work in your truck for the added wait

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[basshz]

Double check your weight ratings for your truck. The rating should list three sets. One set of weight ratings for the cab loaded, another set for the bed loaded, and another for towing. My truck lists these weights on the drivers side door label. Another thing to consider is how old your leaf springs are and how strong they actually are in stock new form. If you will be going over the maximum listed weight ratings you should definitely think about beefing up your suspension.

My trucks stock leaf springs were sh**** for hauling and keeping a safe ride at highway speeds.

I have used shocks with stiffer compression, adjustable shocks, roadmaster active suspension and torklift helpers. For my truck what ended up working the best was some Monroe airshocks and a $40 leaf spring helper set from o'reillys.

Try to cut as a big a hole as possible (or what you're comfortable with) for your box.

Are you planning to use the whole bed (going over the wheel well humps?) or just keeping it down the middle?

 

[BoogerMan]

@CSCStang, not sure about the box specs yet, but definitely a 4th order. Most likely a v style setup with 3 subs on each side. My bed dimensions are 49" between wheel wells, 17" tall, and 72" deep.

Thanks @els1989. I'll let you know once I get around to that part of the build.
@basshz awesome thank you! The sticker says GVWR 6,000 lbs and GAWR is FRT 2,900 lbs and RR is 3,400 lbs. No idea what is for what haha

I think what I'll do is meet up with the guy in my group who is the engine/mechanic guy. Hopefully he can tell me if my current leaf springs are okay or if they need to be replaced and if I should do helper bags, helper springs, airs shocks etc once we know exactly how much extra weight I'll be adding

The cutout is already 52" wide and 8" tall. I'm going to try to make that work so I don't have to cut it and reseal with a new boot but if whoever designs my box says cut out more height I will lol.

I'll be using just between the wheel wells since I don't think I'll need more space than that. That's about 34 cubes external so should be plenty for 6 12s in a 4th


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[BoogerMan]

Got the back seats, port, and 2 subs pulled out tonight. My small screw gun died and I can't get the other 2 subs out without it. I'll pull those out Thursday and then hopefully have the box out by the weekend

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[basshz]

The sticker says GVWR 6,000 lbs and GAWR is FRT 2,900 lbs and RR is 3,400 lbs. No idea what is for what haha
The cutout is already 52" wide and 8" tall. I'm going to try to make that work so I don't have to cut it and reseal with a new boot but if whoever designs my box says cut out more height I will lol.

I'll be using just between the wheel wells since I don't think I'll need more space than that. That's about 34 cubes external so should be plenty for 6 12s in a 4th

GVWR is your gross vehicle weight rating. This is roughly the total weight of your vehicle unloaded. Whether it takes into account fuel or not is hard to say.

GAWR is gross axle weight rating. This is the rating of weight each axle can sustain. FRT is front and RR is rear. Again it's hard to say how much of the weight of your vehicle is distributed over the axles. You would need to do corner weighting to get an idea.

52" and 8" tall is a big cutout so you should be good. Heck at those dimensions I personally would be tempted to try a parallel tuned 6th order. That depends on if your subs would model good for it though.

Your bed is definitely way more accommodating than mine (72" length, 43" width :between wheel wells:, 16" high :with tonneau cover: ) but even at 34 cubes that number starts to shrink down quick with all displacements. Hopefully your box designer can maximize the space.

With your cutout dimension though a 4th order would be easiest. When I get home I can send a pic of one of my 4ths layout that might give you an idea or two.

 

[BoogerMan]

GVWR is your gross vehicle weight rating. This is roughly the total weight of your vehicle unloaded. Whether it takes into account fuel or not is hard to say.
GAWR is gross axle weight rating. This is the rating of weight each axle can sustain. FRT is front and RR is rear. Again it's hard to say how much of the weight of your vehicle is distributed over the axles. You would need to do corner weighting to get an idea.

52" and 8" tall is a big cutout so you should be good. Heck at those dimensions I personally would be tempted to try a parallel tuned 6th order. That depends on if your subs would model good for it though.

Your bed is definitely way more accommodating than mine (72" length, 43" width :between wheel wells:, 16" high :with tonneau cover: ) but even at 34 cubes that number starts to shrink down quick with all displacements. Hopefully your box designer can maximize the space.

With your cutout dimension though a 4th order would be easiest. When I get home I can send a pic of one of my 4ths layout that might give you an idea or two.

Thanks for all the info! I appreciate it.

I think I'm going to stick with a 4th even if I could fit a 6th because it will be much easier for me to make a 4th. I've only built one box in my life (Camry build) so I'm still new to this, but I want to do as much as I can on my own as I really enjoy it and enjoy learning!

I have a guy that is going to make me a dual alt bracket and then I'll have someone design the box, but besides that the rest will most likely be done by me. I can't improve my skills if I pay someone else to do it haha.

Here is one of my teammates blow through. Super clean and pretty **** loud for only the C7s

I think I'll do something similar to this but 3 subs on each side

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[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Tuned in.

Last build was phenomenal.

Surely this one will be just as ****** as the last //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

I just finished an 8 12's 4th with C7's, so must be Crossfire month lol

I'm guessing you'll have to shrink the opening into the cabin as it's 400^2 of area and with a V config firing at the opening I doubt your subs will want that much. The 8 12's I did is around 325^2 as that's what tested best for 25-50hz passband.

And I agree that mid 50's shouldn't be a problem as those are strong subs....

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

I just finished an 8 12's 4th with C7's, so must be Crossfire month lol
I'm guessing you'll have to shrink the opening into the cabin as it's 400^2 of area and with a V config firing at the opening I doubt your subs will want that much. The 8 12's I did is around 325^2 as that's what tested best for 25-50hz passband.

And I agree that mid 50's shouldn't be a problem as those are strong subs....

Any pics? Love me some multiple sub builds. That's if boogerman doesn't mind.

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

Any pics? Love me some multiple sub builds. That's if boogerman doesn't mind.

Don't want to threadjack.....

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Don't want to threadjack.....

Yeah I know...that's why I said if boogerman didn't mind.

I'm pretty sure he won't //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[BoogerMan]

Don't want to threadjack.....

Post away! I was going to do 8 C7s but could only fit them if I built around the wheel wells and that seemed a bit out of my comfort zone for my second build. I'd love to see how it turned out though!

And yep, I won't be using the entire cutout for the port. Just whatever I need which I know won't be 400"^2

I found a local acrylic supplier so I might be doing an acrylic top and back with blue LEDs in the box to really make it look nice and professional //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[BoogerMan]

Got a couple questions about wire and battery bus bars.

I want to do blue for my positive and black for my negative.

Is this welding cable okay? Hard to find blue

2/0 WELDING CABLE BLUE

Then here is the black on the same site

2/0 CCI ROYAL EXCELENE WELDING CABLE BLACK

Also, how many runs should I do if I get 2/0? I'm thinking 2 runs positive and 2 runs negative should be good since front to back battery distance will only be about 10-15 feet.

And who do you guys get bus bars through? Toolmaker seems to make nice stuff...

Thanks!

 

[BoogerMan]

Look what came in the mail today //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

Can't wait to start playing with this bad boy!

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[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Got a couple questions about wire and battery bus bars.
I want to do blue for my positive and black for my negative.

Is this welding cable okay? Hard to find blue

2/0 WELDING CABLE BLUE

Then here is the black on the same site

2/0 CCI ROYAL EXCELENE WELDING CABLE BLACK

Also, how many runs should I do if I get 2/0? I'm thinking 2 runs positive and 2 runs negative should be good since front to back battery distance will only be about 10-15 feet.

And who do you guys get bus bars through? Toolmaker seems to make nice stuff...

Thanks!

between the batteries Id do at minimum the total of the entire load. if you have 12kw your looking at close to 900 amps. I personally would do 3 runs.that being said i would eliminate the front battery and just run a 1/0 to the front distro panel feeding the cars electronics. and just run a 2/0 to the rear battery from each alt with buss-bars between the batteries..