GVWR is your gross vehicle weight rating. This is roughly the total weight of your vehicle unloaded. Whether it takes into account fuel or not is hard to say.The sticker says GVWR 6,000 lbs and GAWR is FRT 2,900 lbs and RR is 3,400 lbs. No idea what is for what haha
The cutout is already 52" wide and 8" tall. I'm going to try to make that work so I don't have to cut it and reseal with a new boot but if whoever designs my box says cut out more height I will lol.
I'll be using just between the wheel wells since I don't think I'll need more space than that. That's about 34 cubes external so should be plenty for 6 12s in a 4th
Thanks for all the info! I appreciate it.GVWR is your gross vehicle weight rating. This is roughly the total weight of your vehicle unloaded. Whether it takes into account fuel or not is hard to say.
GAWR is gross axle weight rating. This is the rating of weight each axle can sustain. FRT is front and RR is rear. Again it's hard to say how much of the weight of your vehicle is distributed over the axles. You would need to do corner weighting to get an idea.
52" and 8" tall is a big cutout so you should be good. Heck at those dimensions I personally would be tempted to try a parallel tuned 6th order. That depends on if your subs would model good for it though.
Your bed is definitely way more accommodating than mine (72" length, 43" width :between wheel wells:, 16" high :with tonneau cover: ) but even at 34 cubes that number starts to shrink down quick with all displacements. Hopefully your box designer can maximize the space.
With your cutout dimension though a 4th order would be easiest. When I get home I can send a pic of one of my 4ths layout that might give you an idea or two.
I just finished an 8 12's 4th with C7's, so must be Crossfire month lol
I'm guessing you'll have to shrink the opening into the cabin as it's 400^2 of area and with a V config firing at the opening I doubt your subs will want that much. The 8 12's I did is around 325^2 as that's what tested best for 25-50hz passband.
And I agree that mid 50's shouldn't be a problem as those are strong subs....
Yeah I know...that's why I said if boogerman didn't mind.Don't want to threadjack.....
Post away! I was going to do 8 C7s but could only fit them if I built around the wheel wells and that seemed a bit out of my comfort zone for my second build. I'd love to see how it turned out though!Don't want to threadjack.....
between the batteries Id do at minimum the total of the entire load. if you have 12kw your looking at close to 900 amps. I personally would do 3 runs.that being said i would eliminate the front battery and just run a 1/0 to the front distro panel feeding the cars electronics. and just run a 2/0 to the rear battery from each alt with buss-bars between the batteries..Got a couple questions about wire and battery bus bars.
I want to do blue for my positive and black for my negative.
Is this welding cable okay? Hard to find blue
2/0 WELDING CABLE BLUE
Then here is the black on the same site
2/0 CCI ROYAL EXCELENE WELDING CABLE BLACK
Also, how many runs should I do if I get 2/0? I'm thinking 2 runs positive and 2 runs negative should be good since front to back battery distance will only be about 10-15 feet.
And who do you guys get bus bars through? Toolmaker seems to make nice stuff...
Thanks!