Boat System questions

[pentavolvo 10+ year member]

Ill throw in my 2 cents here i have a 20 ft open bow power boat with a 6 banger I/O. Boat came brand new with a single battery setup and I considered adding a 2nd battery and an isolator right away when doing the stereo system

I run 75x4rms into my speakers and 300rms into a sub. I play the system at prly 3/4 its output with the boat off for close 1.5-2 hours at a pop and the boat fires up every time allthough I am probably pushing my luck. IMO get a nice 2nd battery isolate it from ur starting battery and rock on

 

[c0smo kram3r 10+ year member]

Well we have a Grady White center console with two engines. We have a battery for each and then another one for our radar/gps/loran/bottom machine/radio and what not.

 

[Relax 10+ year member]

I see now how you could wire them without being paralleled, however with only one charging device they would have to be parallel. A bank charger may remedy that.

 

[maddskillzz 10+ year member]

There is no question you are going to need at least 1 more battery..i would go with 2 extra batteries because there is nothing worse than drifting around on the lake with a boat that wont start...I have had a boat all my adult life and have been stuck several times and it sucks ***..get all the battery you can afford.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/titanic.gif.8089b7552c370bcc138aa121756d0c0b.gif

 

[DidUHearThat? 10+ year member]

You should go for the biggest alt and batt bank you can resonable afford and fit. You'll need at least 1 spare (2 would be better) batt on a battery isolator. 1 spare (2 total) will give you about 30 min at about 400 - 600 watts, for 1 hour you'll need at least 2 just for the audio. Skip the pyle gear it's crap and it won't last 1 year. Alpine marine or PDX would be best.

With a 160 amp alt, 1 main battery, a battery isolator and 2 acessory batts you should be able to achive your desired 1 hour run time and still have a fresh batt to start your engine.

Use class D amps because the are much more efficent on power consumption. The subs will eat the most power by far. Using larger drivers will increase efficency withou increasing power consumption. For example a single 15" sub will put out as more bass for less power than two 10" subs. The box size may not be practical but maybe a pair of 12's instead of 10's would be better. More bass for less power. 6 1/2" or 6 x9's for main speakers instead of smaller speakers will also give you more sound for less power.

 

[anb.osu]

Thanks for the insight...

makes sense on using the different size speakers.... never looked at it that way..

So far I deterimed I am going to try one extra battery, check altenator and upgrade accordingly, get battery isolator/ recharger and see what happens, with the expectation of possibly having to add another (3rd) battery.

Also.... If I were to add say and optima as my second battery, having a standard lead acid battery as my cranking battery.... any issues???? (with two different types of batteries)?

 

[DidUHearThat? 10+ year member]

No issues. That's what I have in my van. Standard cranking batt (red top or normal lead acid) under the hood for cranking, and a battery isolator split to a yellow top (any deep cycle) in the rear for the system. Works great. Although even with my small system I only get about 30-40 minutes of play time with the engine off before my head unit starts cutting out due to low voltage on the second batt, but at least I still have a fully charged main batt to start the car with. Get the biggest yellow top you can find. Mine is too small.