Blown and Melted Fuse Block

[Tylerrr01]

For starters here is my setup

Subwoofers:
2 10” Kicker Comp R’s
800 watts (peak) per sub
400 watts (rms) per sub

Amp:
Lanzar Heritage Amp
2000 watt
2-channel bridgeable
Ran with a 9.5mm power wire which I believe is 4 gauge.

So my issue is whenever I listen to music with the subs if I play they for about 45min to an hour the amp will go into protection mode and stop working until it cools down. It’s been doing that for some time now but as of yesterday they stopped working and I thought they went into protection mode. Upon further investigating after they never came back on I found my fuse block was melted and the fuse blew (in the picture). I’m honestly not sure what happened so any advice or tips would be great! Thanks!

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[SlugButter]

First step is to make sure all your connections are tight. A loose ground or power wire anywhere along the line can cause that.

 

[Tylerrr01]

First step is to make sure all your connections are tight. A loose ground or power wire anywhere along the line can cause that.

I went through and check all wiring and everything looked tight and good.

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Those fuse holders are pretty garbage. I would cut it out, add two ring terminals, and get a bolt down style ANL fuse holder.

Is that a 70 amp fuse?

These are my favorite fuse holders I have used and they are pretty cheap.

ANL Fuse Holders

ANL fuse holders for over current protection

vtewarehouse.com

 

[Tylerrr01]

Those fuse holders are pretty garbage. I would cut it out, add two ring terminals, and get a bolt down style ANL fuse holder.

Is that a 70 amp fuse?

These are my favorite fuse holders I have used and they are pretty cheap.

http://[URL]https://vtewarehouse.com/content/electromech/fuse/html/anl/anlfuse.php

[/URL]

I will definitely have to check those out. But I believe it is a 100 amp fuse. This is the amp kit I’m currently running. I guess my biggest concern would be if I’m running all the correct wires to the amp to match with the subs as far as wattage.

 

[Tylerrr01]

Those fuse holders are pretty garbage. I would cut it out, add two ring terminals, and get a bolt down style ANL fuse holder.

Is that a 70 amp fuse?

These are my favorite fuse holders I have used and they are pretty cheap.

http://[URL][URL]https://vtewarehouse.com/content/electromech/fuse/html/anl/anlfuse.php

[/URL][/URL]

Also would this be the correct fuse to get if I get this bolt down styled fuse block?

 

[Deiimos]

Yeah that melted fuse holder is not great and I highly suspect its terminals just didn’t have enough tension on the fuses legs, leading to resistance / overheating. Off brand fuses are also bad at melting / overheating.

That Kicker holder would probably work fine.

I think I prefer the ring terminals / ANL holders where the bolt clamps it all together tightly as mentioned. I have a hydraulic crimper to put on ring terminals and have always had solid connections doing it like that. But if the wire fits the holder properly, the set screw style like that Kicker should work okay, just have to get the wires in right and tight.

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

I like how the ad says "oxygen free copper/cca copper clad aluminum". I'm going to side on CCA 6 gauge wire.

Your amp has a 40 amp fuse so your subwoofers are under powered for sure with it.

That fuse holder is for 1/0 gauge wire. If you are going to get a set screw style fuse holder I would make sure you get one for 8-4 gauge wire. I would personally run a 60 amp fuse on the wire.

 

[Deiimos]

I just did a quick look and 9.5mm wire would be around 2/0 when measuring the wire itself and not the jacket, they must be talking about the outer jacket being 9.5mm which would be pretty small wire, so yeah, make sure you get the proper size holder for it.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

It looks like the wire-female clip-fuse connection melted. I agree with whoever said that above. You’d think if it was over current, the fuse would’ve blown properly. Those little dinky tiny looking clips look small. That’s terrible quality, IMO. I would never use 100 amps or anything close to that with fuses that “clip in” like that. Look at the diameter of your wire, then look at how small of cross area those little clips have.

There’s too many fluctuations of heat/cold and corrosion that can weaken the grip and cause that very high resistance issue, where you’d get a problem like this, like someone said above. Running electricity though metal can decay it faster, especially if the quality of materials is low. Impure metals can have hot spots within the metal, because the impurities aren’t conductive, so you get more heat in that location (more energy density in conductive parts). Quality matters.

That fuse holder is compromised, and I would NEVER use it again. You have a potential fire hazard if you use that holder. I always get ANL fuses, which is also above; they make mini-ANL fuses, too. Every ANL fuse holder I’ve had screws down the fuse, so stuff like this is less likely to happen, and the contact patch of an ANL, where the fuse ends are, is bigger. I’d get a water-resistant one for under the hood, with rubber gaskets to seal off the fuse from water and help against corrosion.

People gotta service their audio systems, especially during weather changes. Even ANL fuse holders can loosen up from bass and repetitive temp changes.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Id run 4ga OFC with an inline ANL Fuse of 100amps min. XS Scorpian is decent too. Decent wiring install kit

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335951755&icep_item=164122985968

 

[Tylerrr01]

Yeah that melted fuse holder is not great and I highly suspect its terminals just didn’t have enough tension on the fuses legs, leading to resistance / overheating. Off brand fuses are also bad at melting / overheating.

That Kicker holder would probably work fine.

I think I prefer the ring terminals / ANL holders where the bolt clamps it all together tightly as mentioned. I have a hydraulic crimper to put on ring terminals and have always had solid connections doing it like that. But if the wire fits the holder properly, the set screw style like that Kicker should work okay, just have to get the wires in right and tight.

I went ahead and bought the kicker fuse box and installed it last night. Ran them for about 2 hours last night on a trip and haven’t had any issues. So I guess so far so good

 

[2RZ-FE 10+ year member]

I only use ANL regular or mini. The maxi fuse and the glass tube ones are bad news.