Blowing subs... what is wrong here

Rainy

CarAudio.com Newbie
First sorry for the noob thread.

Hi everyone. I'm new to these forums, and I'm having an issue with my current vehicles audio setup. My car audio knowledge is pretty much enough to wire and hook up a full system (head unit, subs, amp, speaker amp ect). I never measured with an Oscope or even multimeter before now which I'm sure was mistake number 1.

So I normally wire my own systems but didnt have the time with work on this vehicle. It's a 2005 Infiniti G35 coupe, factory BOSE system, bose amp.

I had a shop wire it up to keep the bose head unit and add a sub. I noticed immediately they only tapped into one side for a signal, because when I would change the balance L/R, the sub would only be producing sound with the head unit at normal, or all the way to the right balance.

Not sure if that is acceptable or if that would cause a problem in and of itself?

Anyhow the real issue I'm having now is this - I got a great deal on a Hifonics BE2500.1D 2500w rms amp. Way more power than I needed but hey, the price was right. So I hooked it up to the sub, a 12 inch Alpine Type R SWR-12D2 (1000w rms rated, 2ohm). Ran it for 30 minutes and it blew, smoking.

Gain was maybe 2/3 of the way up, Bass eq is at 0, low pass at 80, sub sonic at 20.

Was the gain simply too high or could there be another issue? This is the second sub that has blown in less than 3 weeks with this amp.

My electrical seems to be great, I get no dimming no surge, no worries.

Next sub I will be at least measuring with a multimeter the gains but I'm just having a hard time believing that Type R would roast in 30 min under moderate power/volume listening.
 
Some shops just clip the ends off one end of a rca cable and solder right to the speaker wires at the source unit. Several videos on YouTube to assist with setting gains
 
First sorry for the noob thread.

Hi everyone. I'm new to these forums, and I'm having an issue with my current vehicles audio setup. My car audio knowledge is pretty much enough to wire and hook up a full system (head unit, subs, amp, speaker amp ect). I never measured with an Oscope or even multimeter before now which I'm sure was mistake number 1.

So I normally wire my own systems but didnt have the time with work on this vehicle. It's a 2005 Infiniti G35 coupe, factory BOSE system, bose amp.

I had a shop wire it up to keep the bose head unit and add a sub. I noticed immediately they only tapped into one side for a signal, because when I would change the balance L/R, the sub would only be producing sound with the head unit at normal, or all the way to the right balance.

Not sure if that is acceptable or if that would cause a problem in and of itself?

Anyhow the real issue I'm having now is this - I got a great deal on a Hifonics BE2500.1D 2500w rms amp. Way more power than I needed but hey, the price was right. So I hooked it up to the sub, a 12 inch Alpine Type R SWR-12D2 (1000w rms rated, 2ohm). Ran it for 30 minutes and it blew, smoking.

Gain was maybe 2/3 of the way up, Bass eq is at 0, low pass at 80, sub sonic at 20.

Was the gain simply too high or could there be another issue? This is the second sub that has blown in less than 3 weeks with this amp.

My electrical seems to be great, I get no dimming no surge, no worries.

Next sub I will be at least measuring with a multimeter the gains but I'm just having a hard time believing that Type R would roast in 30 min under moderate power/volume listening.

You pretty much solved your own issue by saying "next time i will be at least measuring with a multimeter the gains." What THATpurpleKUSH said is the reality of it. Gain is not a volume knob. If you've got a way lesser RMS value speaker you need to be sure you're not feeding it too much power because the clipping lights aren't going to save the speaker.

As for your left/right side issue with the signal you say no LOC was used. Where are they RCAs from? It sounds like they probably used the speaker outputs right to the amp. Whichever method they used though the proper way is for both sides to be connected. If they didn't connect one side it means either they didn't bother hooking it up to all 4 wires, they did do all 4 but reversed polarity and then left a pair out to get more volume, the pair you're not hearing is shorted and that's no beuno, or the pair you're missing is open circuited so the connection failed. If it suddenly comes back it will affect your volume, and if you're not quick on the dial it could damage something.
 
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That is the perfect spot to do that. OEM sub may interfere with the new one and cause cancellation.
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You can pull that amplifier and take to an Audio shop and see if they will test it. Most shops charge very little and some will not even charge...
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Sounds like a bad ground or wiring problem on the 12v+ side.
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