disturbed471985
5,000+ posts
CarAudio.com Veteran
^^ ur box was built for a dayton 12 not a jl w7 13" so you may have an issue with box being to big or to small for the w7.
Sure you can put any subwoofer in a sealed box and it will sound ok for many needs. I have seen many reviewers say these don't perform well in a sealed box. First, they have very low sensitivity. Second, a sharper low end roll off. Both are non issue with a good amplifier and some EQing. If you're ok with throwing 800watts at this subwoofer to get the output of Peerless XXLS or Image Dynamics IDQ on just 300watts, I guess you can run it in a sealed box. The advantage to that is that you get to use a smaller sealed box with Dayton.Really? I checked through many threads and other forums and they all said a sealed box or very small ported boxes were best for this speaker.
Well, these are not _bad_ subwoofers, but they certainly have negative sides.yea everyone (but the one poster above) has had nothing but good things to say about these subs. I'm pretty sure they just set everything up poorly. That's what I get for taking someone's advice in taking it to that place.
Well, probably almost any subwoofer can be put into a sealed box and tuned to produce acceptable results for someone's needs. That doesn't mean it's an optimal arrangement for the given subwoofer. It may however be the optimal arrangement in terms of practicality and functionality for a specific installation.. What proof I have? I have seen several reviews on DIYMA saying it doesn't work to a full potential in sealed box. Also, it's based on the Efficiency Bandwidth Product product criterion, usually 50 or less implies the sub is suited for sealed box application. A lot above that says it more suited for ported/vented box. WinISD calculates EBP of over 70 for the SVC 4ohm HO (actually, I just looked it up, and it doesn't seem so bad for sealed box, though below 50 is usually recommended). This is only a suggestion of course, not a 100% proof. It's like the sealed vs ported box debate for a subwoofer like SA-12. Most people use them with vented/ported box, the design seems to favor ported, but it's not like some people have not obtained good results in a sealed box.Wow who let the newbs in this thread badmouthing the HO's saying they're not meant for a sealed enclosure......if you had a shred of proof a shred.
In terms of sound, price, and T/S parameters, I think Peerless XLS/XXLS are pretty similar to Dayton HO/HF respectively. They had been benched and reviewed many times, etc. The Peerless drivers cost a little more, though I believe their quality/consistency track record might have been a little better too. My understanding about the Ultimo is that it's in a completely different league sonically and price wise. People who have heard both rank the Ultimo much higher, but it also costs a lot more. Admittedly, I don't know if it makes sense to put such a nice subwoofer in a car (with hidden rattles "coloring" sound and noise at 70mph, I could care less), but if I had $1000 burning a hole in my pocket, why not I guess.the closest sub to the HO is this WoofersEtc.com - Ultimo 12 - Morel 12" SQ/SPL 2 Ohm 1000 Watt Subwoofer
the w7 was a steal, I'm keeping it. but i like your idea. the pro-wedge isnt bad, but its very heavy and im sure pro-rabbit can do something better.sell me the w7
I'd use the w7 and sell the other 2 to cover the cost of a custom box for the w7
That is coming from some one who has a 12" dayton
yea this is my first system ever so I didnt know what the hell i was doing. it was fried within one hr lol i learned my lesson thoughKeep in mind that there is a thread or you may find on you tube the way to break in a subwoofer before slamming the juice to it , will be helpful, and prolong the life of the subwoofer as well.Just a suggestion to you.One of the reasons most subwoofers fail, not breaking the woofer in.My opinion:escape: