Birch box construction

[lilmaniac2 5,000+ posts]

I think its the other way around rob //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[kmanian 5,000+ posts]

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif I couldn't care less if you can't cut worth a ****, that isn't really relevant. If you can't get a usable cut (clamping and screws can take even 1/4" mishap cuts into glueable cuts), no adhesive will save you anyway as the joint isn't strong, it's just airtight. In the end, it's still going to fail, so I ask you, what is YOUR point?

My point is that if you are using screws and clamps to bridge a 1/4" gap you have got stress that is going to end up in failure anyways, I am speaking about the shi&&y cuts that wobble back and forthe, the kind that most people make that don't have a 10-12" cabinet grade saw, If you can tell me that you have total contact with your screws and clamps, I will say that you do have the best bond. I am however going to stick with my opinion that with out extremely good wood to wood contact, yo are better off going with somthing that will fill the gaps, (poly glue) I will also point out that I can build yo a box that has no glue or nails that I defy you to be able to "blow it apart". my point here is that with proper joinery you dont need glue or nails, with good carpentry glue will suffice by itself, with average carpentry, glue and screws will be necessary.

There are guys on here that dont have the skills that you may posess, and they certinly don't have the post count, They are asking for advice and you seem to ony have one stance on the subject. there are other options. get off the high horse.

 

[kmanian 5,000+ posts]

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif I couldn't care less if you can't cut worth a ****, that isn't really relevant. If you can't get a usable cut (clamping and screws can take even 1/4" mishap cuts into glueable cuts), no adhesive will save you anyway as the joint isn't strong, it's just airtight. In the end, it's still going to fail, so I ask you, what is YOUR point?

My point is that if you are using screws and clamps to bridge a 1/4" gap you have got stress that is going to end up in failure anyways, I am speaking about the shi&&y cuts that wobble back and forthe, the kind that most people make that don't have a 10-12" cabinet grade saw, If you can tell me that you have total contact with your screws and clamps, I will say that you do have the best bond. I am however going to stick with my opinion that with out extremely good wood to wood contact, yo are better off going with somthing that will fill the gaps, (poly glue) I will also point out that I can build yo a box that has no glue or nails that I defy you to be able to "blow it apart". my point here is that with proper joinery you dont need glue or nails, with good carpentry glue will suffice by itself, with average carpentry, glue and screws will be necessary.

There are guys on here that dont have the skills that you may posess, and they certinly don't have the post count, They are asking for advice and you seem to ony have one stance on the subject. there are other options. get off the high horse.

 

[tommyk90 5,000+ posts]

Man did this thread turn into a clusterf*ck.

Use screws and wood glue. It's cheap and effective. I don't see any reason why you should waste more money on liquid nails or any other type of adhesive.

A $5 bottle of wood glue will last you 5-10 boxes depending on size. Liquid nails on the other hand, you'll be lucky to get 2-3 boxes out of an $8 tube. Sure, it's easier to work with since it's not as runny, but in the end you're just wasting money on a less superior adhesive.

 

[teamsubgopoof]

I've used liquid nails before as a wood glue, because I either ran out, or didn't want to take the time to go find it

I almost ALWAYS fill joints with liquid nails to make sure everything is sealed off.

I use wood glue and screws on mdf/birch, don't usually pre drill unless the enclosure isn't covered, then I pre drill and counter sink.

Use wood glue on wood to wood, and run a bead of liquid nails inside the seams of the enclosure, i don't use it to help adhesion, i use it to make sure i'm 100% sealed off except where I want it not to be =)

 

[bjfish11 5,000+ posts]

LOL. Everything you need to know about box building is right here.... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 

[sqhertz 5,000+ posts]

i still dont think i got an exact answer.

glue , clamp , pre drill/screw , unclamp and move on? so your drilling into wet glue? or another way?

 

[bjfish11 5,000+ posts]

Yes you can do it like that. I glue, predrill, screw and move on... Same thing, only no clamps.

 

[sqhertz 5,000+ posts]

ah , i see. ill have to try that out. my cuts are not ever perfect so i may need to clamp to get the wood set straight. next box im def going to give it a try.

 

[tommyk90 5,000+ posts]

i still dont think i got an exact answer.
glue , clamp , pre drill/screw , unclamp and move on? so your drilling into wet glue? or another way?

Thats the exact way I build my boxes.

 

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

i still dont think i got an exact answer.
glue , clamp , pre drill/screw , unclamp and move on? so your drilling into wet glue? or another way?

Exactly how I do it.

 

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

My point is that if you are using screws and clamps to bridge a 1/4" gap you have got stress that is going to end up in failure anyways, I am speaking about the shi&&y cuts that wobble back and forthe, the kind that most people make that don't have a 10-12" cabinet grade saw, If you can tell me that you have total contact with your screws and clamps, I will say that you do have the best bond. I am however going to stick with my opinion that with out extremely good wood to wood contact, yo are better off going with somthing that will fill the gaps, (poly glue) I will also point out that I can build yo a box that has no glue or nails that I defy you to be able to "blow it apart". my point here is that with proper joinery you dont need glue or nails, with good carpentry glue will suffice by itself, with average carpentry, glue and screws will be necessary. There are guys on here that dont have the skills that you may posess, and they certinly don't have the post count, They are asking for advice and you seem to ony have one stance on the subject. there are other options. get off the high horse.

You think I'm on a high horse? Do you even know who I am (or who I used to be?)? I used to build boxes every way BUT the right way, so please, I am probably more experienced than anyone on this website in knowing how NOT to build an enclosure. So before you think I'm just spouting off facts I read in a magazine, I have built numerous enclosures using the methods advocated here, and I can tell you from personal experience, wood glue is second to none. I used to think that a .5" gap was fixable with sealant, for christ's sake. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

I've over the thread..
PV Audio is a hard head..

Kind of like Cot Jones, in the way you can't tell him JL isn't the way to go..

So I'll leave it at that.

Thank you & come again.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif I have done everything you've said for over a year, which is why I can say that what I'm saying now is better. You really should look at some of my old enclosures before you tell me I must make perfect cuts or always have exact measurements.

 

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

My point is that if you are using screws and clamps to bridge a 1/4" gap you have got stress that is going to end up in failure anyways, I am speaking about the shi&&y cuts that wobble back and forthe, the kind that most people make that don't have a 10-12" cabinet grade saw, If you can tell me that you have total contact with your screws and clamps, I will say that you do have the best bond. I am however going to stick with my opinion that with out extremely good wood to wood contact, yo are better off going with somthing that will fill the gaps, (poly glue) I will also point out that I can build yo a box that has no glue or nails that I defy you to be able to "blow it apart". my point here is that with proper joinery you dont need glue or nails, with good carpentry glue will suffice by itself, with average carpentry, glue and screws will be necessary. There are guys on here that dont have the skills that you may posess, and they certinly don't have the post count, They are asking for advice and you seem to ony have one stance on the subject. there are other options. get off the high horse.

I still don't see how you can possibly think this is true. Glue and nails is EXACTLY what a joint has. How could you have one without them? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wow.gif.23d729408e9177caa2a0ed6a2ba6588e.gif

 

[mobeious 10+ year member]

guys come on... if u want to build a box make sure u have the tools to do it and the know how for example, make sure u have a good table saw with a good fence.. hince no gaps in wood no need for "sealants or what ever yall are talkin about" make sure u have 2 drills 1 for predrill other for screws and one last tool... the **** common sense not to use liquid nail, gorilla glue, or anything other then WOODGLUE if u dont meet the requirements above contact ur local CA.com forum for a box builder