Big 3 wire heat resistance

jleecong
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Elite
I was looking at weldingsupply.com and noticed that the wire was only rated to 90C, 194F. My engine runs optimal at 210F and I believe that trucks run even a little warmer. Anyone ever had any problems with wire shielding melting or anything?

 
Thanks 4 the info!

I will keep in mind it is "At your own risk" //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/scared.gif.f134e57c6c93ccd0f15aa5ac32c7d4a0.gif

 
Hey how are you wires wraped? did you just use electircal tape, or did you solder the heads on under that, or use heat shrink tubing? i've had real bad luck with electrical tape not sticking

 
Electric tape and heat are enemies. I use the crimp on battery terminals (hammer it closed) and then use the little red/black/blue cover that came with the terminal to cover the connector.

I have my Block to Ground and Battery to Ground upgraded with 4GA Knukonceptz wire and haven't had problems. The wire that runs over my exhaust manifold that connects the block to the chassis get a little warm and "soft" but looks fine. Knukonceptz wire has an even higher temp rating than weldingsupply.com.

 
welll i would not say electrical and heat are enimes. WIth my experince of useing the elcetrical tape it depends on the quality of tape and the heat rating. Mines uselly melts in and bonds with the wire.

 
welll i would not say electrical and heat are enimes. WIth my experince of useing the elcetrical tape it depends on the quality of tape and the heat rating. Mines uselly melts in and bonds with the wire.
I find using a lighter much like the tape is heat shrink tubing is always good. I was more referring to how the end will start to come up and the glue gets very gooey.
In rethinking I don't have a single piece of electric tape that I put in my car and don't even own any. Use proper connectors, solder, heat shrink tubing, and zip ties.

 
Your engine coolant may be 220 degrees, but the engine outside isn't anywhere near that. Most PVC wire is rated 85*C so your welding cable will be fine. Just keep it away from exhaust manifolds.

 
I fill the closed terminals ends with solder while heating it witha torch so it stays liquid, then stick the wire in, then the solder fills all the gaps. then i slide the black heat shrink tubing after it cools down, then heat that up and it shrinks to be water tight. no crimping, its just solid connection, and it will never get corrosion. tape will fall of, and using a lighter on electrical tape doent do anything, if anyhting itll make it worse. When you heat the terminal up definatly buy one of those bernzomatic propane torches at walmart for 12 bux, lighters dont work. just have to be fast. and it will be professonal and clean looking, I get better connections than any crimp on one can have, just use flux before and heat it up to clean it then add solder, and get that junk hot, it takes some practice, but is not too hard to do

 
using a lighter on electrical tape doent do anything, if anyhting itll make it worse.
Now you are at my point. While one member said heat doesn't have a effect I have always found it has. By heating it with the lighter you get the reaction of pealing off before it's sitting somewhere deep in your car so you can correct anything.
 
Go to autozone, they have an assortment of heatshrink tubing for like 2 bux, that you can cut each piece in 2 and have like 10 tubes for 10 wires. it makes it soo much easier and stronger than elec tape

 
electrical tape is the devil and makes things look unprofesional, I always use heat shrink and I stretch the heat shrink over the wire loom to hold it in place, in most cases it will look factory, I almost never crimp on power wire, too many times before I have customers come back with a wire that pulled out and since I fully warranty all my installations I like to have it done right the first time, or else it costs me time and money later on

 
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jleecong

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