Big 3 upgrade did squat. Deep cycle or 'normal' battery?

[WhatsAminiTruck]

If you're dropping to 8V running less than 1k, you've got a combination of problems. Battery is crap, you need more charging supply, you may need better connections. Where and with what are you measuring voltage?

I went to advanced auto to get a battery/alt/volt test... everything scored fine

 

[thevic24 5,000+ posts]

600 watts droping the voltage down to 8v?? Crap....

DBL check your amp power and ground connections....and where exactly is your voltage meter wired at? ie. amp, batt terminals...ect.

What are your gains set at? Even maxed and clipping the HELL out of that amp, I still do not see getting down to 8v with that power.

Let me ask, is this voltage drop with the head lamps, a/c, and what not on as well?

(^^^beat me to it....)

 

[argenis69 10+ year member]

I will also use 0 gauge ofc power wire and a better output alternator to help more.

 

[UsAmpsFreak]

Okay so, I recently did the 'big 3' upgrade, and it helped.... barely.
It's not that HUGE of an issue if I'm going over 15mph, but at idle... its hilariously bad. I'm trying to be able to play my system at full power with little to no voltage drop at idle. That is my goal

right now, the system is less that 600 watts and the voltage meter smacks 8 after every bass hit. I will soon be pushing more than 2.5k watts.... and I obviously need to beef up the electrical haha.

I am contemplating purchasing a second battery, and using it only to power the amp. If I do this,

can I hook BOTH of the batteries up to my single alternator?

can I ground both of the batteries to the same 'ground spots'?

Should I get a deep cycle battery, or a 'normal' battery?

^If I get a deep cycle battery, can I hook that to the alternator?

Thank you!

Looking to spend less than $200 for the battery.

Honesty bro in my experience batts are really only my suggestion if the voltage drop is fairly minimal. If you have a real volgate problem i would double check the quality of the big 3 install, mainly check to make sure your ground can not be any better at a different location and that where your ground is has been cleaned of all paint ect ect. Past that i would bypass the battery for now, save up your money you would have spent on that and look at upgrading your alternator. If you have a real voltage problem a battery will not fix it. Only more current will fix your problem, aka an alternator. If you're on a tight budget i would take your car to a starter and alternator shop in your town and see how much more they could upgrade it to instead of buying a brand new one. It'll be about 1/3 to 1/2 the price of a H/O alt.

Also, if you already know you're upgrading to 2.5k in the future you will need an upgraded alternator and maybe even an aux alt anyways. Good luck, if you need any more advice on this feel free to pm me.

 

[WhatsAminiTruck]

Just went out and added the old wires along with the new... it helped, but its still bad lol.

So you guys are saying I should get a HO alternator before I get a new battery?

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

]I will also use 0 gauge ofc power wire[/b] and a better output alternator to help more.

Not gonna help here.

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

On the GenII Dakotas the stock alternators are fairly weak, but not that weak. Are you actually measuring this drop with a DMM or just looking at the dash Guage? Because even with 300 DC Power XP alternator, 2 D3100s, and 200 feet of OFC 1/0 my dash voltage guage in my Dakota moves more than it should. However, on multimeter, even with 6000 watts rms I never drop below battery voltage.

 

[jbl420 10+ year member]

so according to bubba for every 1k reccomends a 100amp alt well what do you mean clean power??? i had a kenwood mono 1000 kac8101d and a sony xplode 4ch 600w amp for the doors and my head lights would flicker and with bass hits sometimes and i noticed my main power wire looked burnt up and melted plastic where it connects to the fuse block from batt. i also have a cap.

1 month or so ago i went out and cut the wire back cleaned up the fuse holder which obviously the wire from the battery to the block had melted the plastic cover and melted the metal block sideways into the plastic holder. im using 0g wire to the cap an into 4g the 0g is called q power came with a ground wire too.

I have a jeep cherokee and ive replaced the battery motor grounds and the firewall brainded flat strap i added a piece of 8g from the firewall to the negative batt terminal and i have also added a small ground wire from batt to passenger fire wall. im using a standard excide battery car truck suv

The only thing i havent done is upgrade the alternator wire to batt i was thinking about adding another wire to it. dont really know what the factory size is on an 89 jeep but im currently trying to run a rockford to the subs and when the bass really hits the volt meter goes down when i have the volume up . but if i turn the radio down alil it will stay normal. so i gotta figure something out. as my power wire from the battery to the fuse block looks burnt up again i even replaced the fuse with a 150 instead of a 250a