Bi amp front stage

Is it still a thing?

I'm having a hard time finding a 4 channel amp with xovers that go up to 3k.

Should I use amps with hi level inputs or find a stand alone hi level to low level converter.
It is still a thing. Mostly with people with a monsterous sub stage.
You said 3k, is that the power you are looking for your front stage? If yes, most full bridge amps are full range. You can also get a DSP which will have more features than a built in x-over.
 
Now days, most people that bi amp use a DSP to set everything up. They have much more flexibility than the built in crossover on an amplifier ever could.
 
Thank you for the replies, looks like I'll wander around the DSP isle for a bit.

3k was in Hz, I should only need a couple hundred watts up front. I'm trying to keep the charging system stock, + doing the big 3.
 
Thank you for the replies, looks like I'll wander around the DSP isle for a bit.

3k was in Hz, I should only need a couple hundred watts up front. I'm trying to keep the charging system stock, + doing the big 3.
There's plenty of high quality amps that have good crossovers built in and several that even have full feature DSP built in, and there's even going to be a fair few head units with varying degrees of crossover options built in and of course there's probably 6 or 8 options for outboard crossover/DSP. Take your pick, the cost will probably wash about the same either way you slice it to come up with whatever processing power you're trying to get.
 
There's plenty of high quality amps that have good crossovers built in and several that even have full feature DSP built in, and there's even going to be a fair few head units with varying degrees of crossover options built in and of course there's probably 6 or 8 options for outboard crossover/DSP. Take your pick, the cost will probably wash about the same either way you slice it to come up with whatever processing power you're trying to get.
I was going to use a Kicker amp that had the processing, but the more I read the more I want something more substantial.

I think I'll go with a Hifonics line level converter for 50 bucks and a Timpano 4 channel DSP.

I can't seem to find a 5 or 6 channel DSP that does high level inputs so I'll pull the sub outputs from the Hifonics and use the Timpano for the front 4 speakers, two 1" CDT silk domes and a pair of 7" RS Daytons.

I have to relearn this stuff, I've been out of it for so long I had a pair of AC EQT's in my last setup.
 
Most DSP's have high level inputs on them. Idk where you are looking and what brands but even Dayton does and Hifonics isn't all that great. Spend the money on something better if you are going to do a LOC
 
Now days, most people that bi amp use a DSP to set everything up. They have much more flexibility than the built in crossover on an amplifier ever could.
Im old school.. I still use an Indash EQ to tune at my finger tips/on the fly. Usually with my older Eclipse 5 or 8v HUs
 
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Most DSP's have high level inputs on them. Idk where you are looking and what brands but even Dayton does and Hifonics isn't all that great. Spend the money on something better if you are going to do a LOC
Agreedhere. Id look at Dayton products for the budget minded and a bit more quality unless you want to spend the coin on Audio Control,or an amplifier with built in DSP.Check out Dayton on Parts Express.Com
 
Agreedhere. Id look at Dayton products for the budget minded and a bit more quality unless you want to spend the coin on Audio Control,or an amplifier with built in DSP.Check out Dayton on Parts Express.Com
I'm a big fan of Parts Express, they're a local company for me. All my in wall and in ceiling speakers are Dayton. I looked at the Dayton DSP but I didn't see high level inputs.

I looked again, it does have them. About the same price, I'll have to buy the remote, I bet there are nonlinearities in my factory stereo if you use the volume knob.
 
Well biamping requires special crossovers that handle splitting the frequencies.

You are talking about going active I do believe.

And yes going active is still very common. Most people use some sort of digital dsp instead of crossover dials as they are significantly more accurate and offer much more broad settings as well as additional features

I've run 300w per door for quite some time 80w-125w for each tweeter and 120-200w per mid.


My next system will be a 3way setup with a 100x6 sundown amp with digital crossovers handled by a minidsp 8x12 or helix ultra.
 
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