Best way to be safe

[AnthonyO 10+ year member]

Subs rated at 300 watts rms
Amp rated at 1000 watts dynoed at 1200
So roughly see 800-900 watts in my Tacoma. Maybe
Amp will be tuned using 0db 40hz track and DD1
Enclosure is sealed
Amp STINGER MT1000.1
Subs DD Audio RL-SW10A
still debating dual 4 or dual 2 ohm

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[AnthonyO 10+ year member]

Another catch. These are being cleared out. So basically No Warranty

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

I always feel if you can get volumes in excess of anything you ever want to listen to at the higher impedance, go with it. If you can only get to the volume you want by running at the lower impedance (and the amp/system can handle it), then you gotta do that! It’s all relative.

 

[HardofWhoring]

I have a DD1. In hindsight, I never should have bought it. They work for what they do, but what they do is test voltage up to 1% THD. If you want to see what you can max out your amps, at 1% so that you can get subs for that wattage, then okay cool, your DD1 comes in handy.

Personally I found more use out of it seeing what voltage my head unit puts out at what volume, (Kenwoods seem to be at the rated voltage at 34 out of 35, and extra 10% at 35).

If you know what wattage you want, then use this method:
Do some quick easy math, use any multimeter and set it to AC voltage.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Subs rated at 300 watts rms
Amp rated at 1000 watts dynoed at 1200
So roughly see 800-900 watts in my Tacoma. Maybe
Amp will be tuned using 0db 40hz track and DD1
Enclosure is sealed
Amp STINGER MT1000.1
Subs DD Audio RL-SW10A
still debating dual 4 or dual 2 ohm

NICE!!!