Best Sound Quality Budget Comps...

^if you are new to this stuff stick to passive for a lil while until you get comfortable.
I'd disagree. If I had went active first instead of going with the Memphis Msync's, I would have learned so much more, much faster. You learn, by experience, what different Xover slopes do to affect the sound...how different crossover points affect your soundstage in your own vehicle...etc. All things that fall under trying to get the best sound quality, to use the OP's words.

With passives you're oblivious to any of that.

 
^if you are new to this stuff stick to passive for a lil while until you get comfortable.
you can get excellent sound from passive anyway.
Its not like I really have time to get comfortable because I don't really stay in the "know how" once I buy my system. I can't imagine it being that much more difficult to manipulate an active system than a passive system.

@JimJ:

What about a crossover? Do I use the HU or do you also need to purchase a seperate crossover? Also, where does the crossover sit in the car, if indeed it does sit somewhere. Perhaps I am still a bit confused as to what you meant by "electronic" crossover.

@flakko:

Component systems cost a ton more than the woofers you posted. Are you saying those $30 woofers can put out the same SQ that a $200+ dollar component set can?

Thanks again guys. Its 2:53 AM est. wtf is everyone doing up so late? lol

 
Its not like I really have time to get comfortable because I don't really stay in the "know how" once I buy my system. I can't imagine it being that much more difficult to manipulate an active system than a passive system.
Thanks again guys. Its 2:53 AM est. wtf is everyone doing up so late? lol
i don't see it being hard. i might try it in the future but for now i am happy and have no desire to change my front stage at all. but i do know what to do and what is required.

yea, it is late but i have no life and i am not tired yet.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
What about a crossover? Do I use the HU or do you also need to purchase a seperate crossover? Also, where does the crossover sit in the car, if indeed it does sit somewhere. Perhaps I am still a bit confused as to what you meant by "electronic" crossover.
If your head unit is capable of active operation (it'll say it in the manual if it is), you can just use that, or use something like what Flakko linked to...you can put the crossover anywhere it's convienent, I usually like it somewhere easy to get to so adjusting it during listening isn't a hassle.

Component systems cost a ton more than the woofers you posted. Are you saying those $30 woofers can put out the same SQ that a $200+ dollar component set can?
What do you think the drivers these companies use actually cost? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif In addition, you've got crossover parts to deal with in a pre-built component set - and passive crossovers that are worth anything usually cost as much or more as the drivers themselves.

 
Cool, well I just bought the Pioneer DEH-9800BT, top of the line Pioneer HU, which I would assume can run active.

However, are standalone crossovers generally better than electronic ones? You are really selling me on this whole active thing.

 
Cool, well I just bought the Pioneer DEH-9800BT, top of the line Pioneer HU, which I would assume can run active.
looked it up and not sure....says 3-way crossover on the specs, but no other info on it. make sure first. but that coustic i mentioned seems to do well. i was going to use it before i got another car.

 
Cool, well I just bought the Pioneer DEH-9800BT, top of the line Pioneer HU, which I would assume can run active.
However, are standalone crossovers generally better than electronic ones? You are really selling me on this whole active thing.
To clarify, standalone crossover = active crossover = electronic crossover.

And I don't believe the 9800BT has a true 3-way active crossover built in. It will allow you to select LP for the sub channel and HP for the front and rear, but does not posses a band pass, iirc.

 
I'd disagree. If I had went active first instead of going with the Memphis Msync's, I would have learned so much more, much faster. You learn, by experience, what different Xover slopes do to affect the sound...how different crossover points affect your soundstage in your own vehicle...etc. All things that fall under trying to get the best sound quality, to use the OP's words.
With passives you're oblivious to any of that.
sould have went active with the m syncs i did

 
BUDGET = Find a deal on the web............

I dont believe in budget comps I believe in finding food deals

Like a brand new set of $600 comps for 150 bucks...... (example)

I dont ever want a budget speaker in my car,they really sound like shit usually

Search for a few days youll find a good deal

I always have

 
sould have went active with the m syncs i did
Sure, but now I really don't care enough about car audio to change it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

I'd probably swap the tweet out to a silk dome if I ever did that...even with EQing the metal is a little too harsh for me...

 
Sure, but now I really don't care enough about car audio to change it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
I'd probably swap the tweet out to a silk dome if I ever did that...even with EQing the metal is a little too harsh for me...
should look into diral (spell check) circuits...i know a few ultra high end sq competitors that run these over active x overs and love them. they change x over points with volume.

 
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