Best setup?

[mbacis 10+ year member]

Ok, I have an AIWA CDC-X504MP HU. It only has one set of pre-outs and I have the option to designate the output as either 'rear' or 'sub'. If I choose sub I have level control from the HU and optional built-in LPF. As I understand it, if I choose 'rear' then I can have fade control over the output.

My issue is this....

I want to hook up a 4-channel amp powering the front speakers with two channels and bridging the other two to power a sub. What is the best way to hook this up?

If I power the rears with the HU and use the pre-out on 'sub' setting with the LPF turned off I will be able to adjust the fronts and the sub at the same time with the HU's 'sub' level control and I'll have to go to the amp to make changes to either the sub or fronts seperately. In this case do I keep the HU's fade all the way to rear since nothing will be hooked up to the front?

The other option is to use the pre-out in its 'rear' setting and be able to adjust both the sub and fronts at the same time with the fade control. However, do I need to then wire my rear speakers as fronts and use the fade control in reverse (front=rear speakers, rear=sub+fronts)?

Or...finally, should I just use the pre-out (in 'sub' mode) for the rear channels on the amp, bridged to the sub, and then use speaker level inputs for the front channels so that I maintain accurate fade control and have sub level control from the HU?

Sorry for all the questions, this will be my first self-installed amp. And no, I haven't bought any of it yet. I'm thinking Infinity Kappa 652.5i in the front and then just a single Image Dynamics 8" in a sealed truck box. Not looking for anything spectacular, just want my wife's '99 Saturn SL to sound acceptable since I've found myself as the primary driver since we bought a new car. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

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[tplaya07 10+ year member]

You have a few options. First, you could upgrade your HU to one that has multiple RCA outs. If you'd rather not do that, you could use the one set of RCA's, and get a couple LOC's(http://www.crutchfield.com/S-RJhAmGhEEn9/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?s=0&c=11&g=721&I=101PL2&o=p&a=0&cc=01&avf=N&search=). Otherwise, you could get a line driver (http://www.cardomain.com/item/PHOTLD22). Something like this would allow you to use the one set of RCA's, and convert it to 2-8 sets(depending on model), while boosting the voltage.

 

[mbacis 10+ year member]

Cool. I just got the HU so I don't think I'll be replacing it anytime soon. I know it's a cheap one, but I'm no audiophile, just a poor wannabe, and for $130 I got mp3 playback, front aux input, and a removable faceplate on a deck I liked to look of. I might be getting the Profile CL640 for an amp and it has speaker level inputs so I wouldn't need the LOC's.

I'm thinking I'll go with the last setup I listed, RCA with a Y to the rear left and right channels on the amp for the sub, and speaker level inputs to the front two. That way I have the most control from the HU. Anybody foresee any problems with this?

Thanks for the help tplaya07, I had never seen those line drivers before, good to know.

-Matt

 

[mbacis 10+ year member]

Sorry, one more question.

If I get the ID 8" and the Profile CL640 am I better off getting the 2ohm DVC and wiring it as a 4ohm load so that it gets ~150W or should I get the 4ohm DVC and wire it as a 2ohm load so it gets ~220W. ID recommends 175W to the sub, am I in jeopardy of damaging it by sending an extra 45W? And yes, the amp is capable of a 2ohm load.

 

[nosaj070 10+ year member]

Sorry, one more question.
If I get the ID 8" and the Profile CL640 am I better off getting the 2ohm DVC and wiring it as a 4ohm load so that it gets ~150W or should I get the 4ohm DVC and wire it as a 2ohm load so it gets ~220W. ID recommends 175W to the sub, am I in jeopardy of damaging it by sending an extra 45W? And yes, the amp is capable of a 2ohm load.

The extra 45 watts will not hurt it. But I do not think your amp is 2 ohm MONO stable. I'm sure it says 2 ohm stable, but that is stereo. The amp isn't capable of bridging down to 2 ohms. What you could do, is get the dvc 2 ohm, and just wire each VC directly to 1 channel of the amp. That method would get you 220 watts.