Best power set-up for the buck?

sleazebagger
10+ year member

nobody!!!
So I have one brand new yellow top with a pac 200 relay and a megatron up front w? daul 4 gauge wires.

Here's what I'm going to do but need help with the rest.

1: 86 the leaky megatron and put the yellow up front

2: Use the alt kit to upgrade my 130 to a 240amp

3: replace all wire with 0 gauge and do the big three.

So what I would like to know is: A: Am I on the right track? and B: if I add two battery's then what kind and what type of relay/isolator should I use?. C: how do you wire up three batterys?

Thanks much

 
If you bought the yellow top brand new from a retailer, I would return it. There are cheaper batteries that are just as good. Kinetic batteries seem to be the most popular.

Personally I think isolators are pretty useless. Then again, I'm incredibly cheap.

Unless you leave your car unattended for months at a time, you won't notice any voltage leak. (what happens is, if one battery has a higher voltage than the other batteries, the battery with a higher voltage will attempt to 'charge' the batteries with lower voltage). But the amount is so small that, as I said, you would have to not drive your car for a few months for anything noticeable to happen.

how big of a system do you have? (or planning to have)

My sedan w/ a 80a alt @ idle / stock battery w/ big 3 had no problems running 1.5k watts.

If you do get a battery for the back, then you shouldn't leave the yellow top up front. Yellow tops are deep cycle batteries. if you like the brand, you should get a redtop for up front. The red tops are made for starting cars, yellow tops are made for stereo systems.

But if you take my advise and return the isolator, you can keep the yellow top up front, as it'll probably be the only battery you need.

Nothing wrong with having an isolator, just something I don't think I need.

 
oh, and to wire 3 batteries, you just connect the positive's with the positive's and the negatives with the negatives.

Sort of in a row,

1-----2-----3

1+++2+++3

or you can get a bus bar that will connect all of them using a huge piece of conductive metal.

What ever you do, just don't let anything touch both the - and + bars....

 
If you bought the yellow top brand new from a retailer, I would return it. There are cheaper batteries that are just as good. Kinetic batteries seem to be the most popular.
Personally I think isolators are pretty useless. Then again, I'm incredibly cheap.

Unless you leave your car unattended for months at a time, you won't notice any voltage leak. (what happens is, if one battery has a higher voltage than the other batteries, the battery with a higher voltage will attempt to 'charge' the batteries with lower voltage). But the amount is so small that, as I said, you would have to not drive your car for a few months for anything noticeable to happen.

how big of a system do you have? (or planning to have)

My sedan w/ a 80a alt @ idle / stock battery w/ big 3 had no problems running 1.5k watts.

If you do get a battery for the back, then you shouldn't leave the yellow top up front. Yellow tops are deep cycle batteries. if you like the brand, you should get a redtop for up front. The red tops are made for starting cars, yellow tops are made for stereo systems.

But if you take my advise and return the isolator, you can keep the yellow top up front, as it'll probably be the only battery you need.

Nothing wrong with having an isolator, just something I don't think I need.
I'd like to keep the yellow top and like you said " add a red top up front". I am running the MA HK 802sx 4400 watt + a zx600.1 and would like to add another MA HK so I guess I'll add another yellow for the back.

The local audio has told my to have an isolater/relay and some others I trust have said so as well but now I see a lot of people stating on CA.com that their useless. I'm confused and want to make sure I'm not gonna fry 600.00 in batterys //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 
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sleazebagger

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