Best inexpensive class d amp ?

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Precisely ^
The dc is a solid amp. Doesnt need inflated claims

Wonder where he got those numbers from...?

 

[kr15 5,000+ posts]

There is a dyno showing 3k BURST and instantly protecting

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

There is a dyno showing 3k BURST and instantly protecting

Gotcha. Think Op needs to go back and re illitrate those rms wattage for the amp.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Wonder where he got those numbers from...?

from people that keep putting amps on dynamic RMS tests that make the clueless noobs spread misinformation. aka big D wiz

 

[iLL Ridge 10+ year member]

You wont believe it.... but..

I have a mb quart da 2400.1

And it pounds! I paid 140.00 for it shipped.

I wang on it on a single xfl 10 at 1 ohm.

The amp never cuts out or shuts down.

It walks all over my skar rp2000.d

Both amps rated for ~2000watts@1ohm rms

 

[jordon]

You wont believe it.... but..I have a mb quart da 2400.1

And it pounds! I paid 140.00 for it shipped.

I wang on it on a single xfl 10 at 1 ohm.

The amp never cuts out or shuts down.

It walks all over my skar rp2000.d

Both amps rated for ~2000watts@1ohm rms

where did you buy it at for this price?

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Only has 2 70 amp fuses.

 

[jordon]

Only has 2 70 amp fuses.

Yeah I saw that but for $140 would still be a decent amp.

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Will do 1600 at 1 ohm. They are discontinued but woofersetc has them for $270.

 

[rumdada 10+ year member]

It’s been pushing fine for over a year now it’s all of a sudden pulsating when the bass hits too hard, there’s no protect light on that amp but I’m sure it has to be the amp nothing else has changed.

 

[rumdada 10+ year member]

Oh sorry guys my budget is $300 ish

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

It’s been pushing fine for over a year now it’s all of a sudden pulsating when the bass hits too hard, there’s no protect light on that amp but I’m sure it has to be the amp nothing else has changed.

could be a loose or corroded ground, bad RCA cables, bad RCA output of the head unit just to name a few. Do some actual troubleshooting first before you start self diagnosing with zero concrete evidence to prove your claims.

 

[rumdada 10+ year member]

could be a loose or corroded ground, bad RCA cables, bad RCA output of the head unit just to name a few. Do some actual troubleshooting first before you start self diagnosing with zero concrete evidence to prove your claims.

Hey guys so I stopped being lazy and got a multimeter test everything out and what do you know it was the ground wire. It wasn’t making a solid connection inside the amp terminal.

Thanks for motivating me to get off my *** ! Still might look into a stronger amp or wire them down to 1ohm they’re at 2 right now

 

[PPI_GUY 10+ year member]

OP, glad you got your problem corrected. My advice would be to NOT mount your amp to the sub enclosure if possible (and if that is where yours is). You can see what vibrations from the subs did to loosen your ground at the amp. Amp internals are dealing with that same issue.

Anyway, I was going to suggest a couple of these for a real budget approach...

https://www.rockvilleaudio.com/rxd-t2rwk41/

They'll do around 1100 each (maybe more) with good electrical and can be had for less than the website price if you search. X2 and you're at 2200 watts for approx. $230. Plus, they have a return warranty. Just a thought.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Wonder where he got those numbers from...?

The OLD DC PAI series amps were same board as Sundown SAZ2000D, I clamped nearly 3K out of mine burping at 1/4 ohm nominal.

It's funny how OP buys a cheap amp that died after a year and wants to buy another cheap amp still. Live and learn..... or not.

Anyway, I'd suggest double checking your electrical. Have battery and alternator load tested and make sure all connections (battery, ground, fuses) are clean, tight, and free of corrosion. Coin toss whether it's the amp or not.