Best amp for 1 sundown audio SA 12?

theres no reason to buy the cab 1600 if you only plan on running at 2 ohms. You can get some other amp that does power at 2 ohms instead. After box rise you'll barely see 300 real world watts going to your sub. at 2 ohms. There's a reason why We recommend running a lot more power than needed. The actual amount of power you see wont even be anywhere close to what the sticker says. Its basic physics, unavoidable for any amp. For the CAB, if you wire to 1 ohm, you'll have 2 to 3x the box rise which means you'll see power between 2 and 4 ohms which is about 750 watts once things are done. The reason you want more power is because you are using a pre-fab not optimal box as well which will limit how much output you'll get.


Why am i running 30k power to my 4 subs that are only 4k rms and never even got close to heating up the sub? Its because the signal is clean, amp is efficient. A lot more cases of blown subs and amps happen from newbs not being happy with the output they get and they start to crank things up when the amp cant provide anywhere close to enough power.
So should I get a SA 12 D4 or D2 and run at 1 ohm? I'm getting confused now I just want a nice single 12 in my truck that's hits hard I'm not trying to make things complicated that's for sure ESP since this will be my first system.

 
I haven't heard great things about the CAB as far as reliability goes, but since being in this forum it seems highly recommended. A lot of people seem to run them without problems. I'm sure you would be fine, although I would get a d4 sub so that you can wire it to 2ohms on that amp. yeah it can handle the amp at 1ohm, but the difference would be inaudible and you are putting the sub at a higher risk for damage if you arent paying close attention. Plus for the future option of upgrading, you will be better of with a d4 sub.
With that being said, I also have a dodge cummins diesel. Yes they have a pretty stout electrical. I used to run my crescendo bc2000 (Korean) with minimal voltage problems. I then switched to a crescendo s1500 (Chinese) and I can dip down into the 11's on stock electrical if I am not careful. I changed a few things that could be causing the higher voltage drop. The one variable I haven't counted out yet is my new grounding location. I don't think it is optimal and I am going to drill a hole in my floor and ground it straight to the frame to see if that helps. I haven't counted out my stock alternator might be starting to take a **** on me either after about 6 years of abuse.
I'm guilty in CAUSING reliability issues with the CAB... I had vibration issues that eventually killed my 1st CAB... I had it mounted on the box and an internal divider was loose... I heard nothing but the amp felt it tho... walked the board 1/4" out the heatsink... or running it under recommended impedance... no issues yet... but some people eventually have them... I think a really strong electrical is the answer to those problems tho... as we all know, manufacturers recommendations are there for a reason... LOL!.. but I've CAUSED all my issues ... they actually warrantied it no questions asked...

 
So should I get a SA 12 D4 or D2 and run at 1 ohm? I'm getting confused now I just want a nice single 12 in my truck that's hits hard I'm not trying to make things complicated that's for sure ESP since this will be my first system.
Out of all the people commenting in here I would probably trust jeff. Wire it at 1ohm and you will have a beast. He is right about box rise and the fact that you will probably be in the 2-3 ohm range when things are said and done, plus you will have some voltage drop. The problem is to do it right, it IS complicated and you need an understanding of what you are doing.

Let me put it this way. I have a 1500w amp, very comparable to the cab, except a a bit better quality, but it also cost 100 more. The dyno test of my amp showed it producing 1700w @1ohm certified. That doesnt mean 1 am getting 1700w when I connect it to my subs in the real world tho. I clamped it at 1200 watts on the term lab. A lot of it has to do with my voltage drop tho, there is not doubt in my mind I would stay closer to 1500w if I wasn't dropping 2 volts. So saying you will only see 750w might be a bit of an exaggeration, but the fact is that there is power lost in translation.

You will be fine either way, but a d2 will give you the ability to get the most out of your amp right now. I have two subs comparable to the SA series and my s1500 gives them all they really need. I used to run them on a true 2k and the difference isn't audible. That is why I was recommending a d4 sub in case you want to upgrade to another sub in the future. Then you could wire them up to 1ohm and gain some extra power from the amp plus the doubled cone area.

 
[quote name='Jeffdachef']sa 12 d2 cab 1600 run at 1 ohm simple. Dont over think it.[/QUOTE]

a multitude of us on here agree with this @Vinson Clark, you will be happy with this set up as long as you have a good enclosure for the sa12 d2 and make sure you provide the amp with clean crimped OFC wire (which has nothing to do with the amp)

you simply cant be a cab1600.1 for the price
 
[quote name='wew lad']a multitude of us on here agree with this @Vinson Clark, you will be happy with this set up as long as you have a good enclosure for the sa12 d2 and make sure you provide the amp with clean crimped OFC wire (which has nothing to do with the amp)

you simply cant be a cab1600.1 for the price[/QUOTE]

Do you have a link of wiring kit I would need so I can have it and carry it to my installer?
 
And keep the gain knob turned down for the amp? Lol
sure, if you need to. you're going to need to adjust it by ear depending on what you listen to whether it be bass music or rock anyways. if you're worried about it simply buy a $20 stinger voltmeter off amazon and put the wires into the amp terminal where your wire goes and watch the voltage. if it drops too much turn the gain down.

you're overthinking it.

 
Do you have a link of wiring kit I would need so I can have it and carry it to my installer?
https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK

https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SVMR-Voltage-Gauge-Display/dp/B001HEGBWE/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1500841899&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=stinger+voltmeter

make sure your installer puts the voltmeter at the amp terminals, nowhere else.

your installer should have rolls of 4 gauge with fuse holders in his shop anyway, unless hes one of those guys who does side jobs. just make sure its OFC, NO CCA

 
https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK
https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SVMR-Voltage-Gauge-Display/dp/B001HEGBWE/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1500841899&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=stinger+voltmeter

make sure your installer puts the voltmeter at the amp terminals, nowhere else.

your installer should have rolls of 4 gauge with fuse holders in his shop anyway, unless hes one of those guys who does side jobs. just make sure its OFC, NO CCA
Thank you man. So this 4ga amp install kit with volt meter will work perfect with this setup? About to order everything.

 
If you upgrade or run another amp eventually... personally I'd like to see you use a 0 gauge kit... the amp has 0 ga power inputs for a reason...

 
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