if you arent doing two, i'd say run it at 1 ohm. just because its 1600 doesnt mean you have to use all 1600 watts. You directly control how much power the sub sees with gain controls.
Man I don't know a thing about setting up systems like that. I will be having someone install all this for me I for sure wouldn't want to blow the sub as soon as I get it. I'm still going to be running my factory door speakers as well so I don't want it to out of control.
Its as simple as turning the knob left or right... I dont know whats soo hard about that. you got people running 3500 watts to a pair of their sa 12s with zero issues. Headroom on power is always better than not having enough power with a lot of dissatisfaction which causes you to run the sub and amp hot and dirty. Vs an amp barely lifting a finger to get you to the loudness you want which helps it keep cool and keep both the sub and amp happy.
lol what's your opinion on the sundown sae1000 amp wired to this sub at 1ohm compared to the cab amp? The sae1000 is what I was recommended for this sub. I'm just curious I know the amp cost a little more.
How would you know exactly how much power you are getting though trying to control it this way?
Heat test. If the sub or amp gets hot after 5 mins of playing, turn it down. If it only stays warm, do a 10 min test. If its cold turn it up. Simple. Dont worry about numbers, the main thing is heat which is the actual killer of subs/amps. Wattage is not what kills things, overheating due to clipping is.
chinese produced sundown, i'd skip it unless its an SCV or SAZ line of sundown which is korean. Overpriced 1k watt. Horrible choice imo. CAB will stomp all over it.
Thanks for the help man I'll go with a SA 12 D4 and the cab amp. I will probably just have it wired at 2 ohms though to play it safe. Hopefully it will workout for me.
i wouldn't trust them.. buy 0 ga ofc wire.. cab will work good at 2ohm, just don't use any bass boost on amp or hu no preset eq's just use clean power i'm running 930 rms to a $80 600rms pioneer sub (i don't drive 100 miles a week let alone a day though) my ppi p1k will work for u to tested at 1160rms @1ohm but it's just $30 less than the cab that y most peeps get the cab hard to be price per watt., it is a big amp though keep that in mind my ppi is less than 1/2 that size.. u could look at orion 1500 they were $226 but may have gone up since peeps saw test on the 2500 doing 3k..
theres no reason to buy the cab 1600 if you only plan on running at 2 ohms. You can get some other amp that does power at 2 ohms instead. After box rise you'll barely see 300 real world watts going to your sub. at 2 ohms. There's a reason why We recommend running a lot more power than needed. The actual amount of power you see wont even be anywhere close to what the sticker says. Its basic physics, unavoidable for any amp. For the CAB, if you wire to 1 ohm, you'll have 2 to 3x the box rise which means you'll see power between 2 and 4 ohms which is about 750 watts once things are done. The reason you want more power is because you are using a pre-fab not optimal box as well which will limit how much output you'll get.
Man I'm going to have to trust them they know more than I do and I know absolutely squat about installs.
