Battery Isolator Installation

[jkok7 10+ year member]

Hi, I have a Pac-200 Battery Isolator. The instuctions say "Either one of the small terminals should be

connected to chassis ground or other ground location and the other terminal to switching power output. Switching

power must be between 10 and 16 VDC." The diagram in the instructions calls the power switching output wire an accessory wire. So is that refering to the Remote wire that goes to my stereo head unit? If that's the case, I can just run a wire from my radio fuse located in the interior fuse box, straight to the isolator. Is that correct?

Thanks in advance!

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[91caprice 10+ year member]

IMO you dont need an isolator. it adds some resistance to the current flow.

but if you must install it.. get a good chassis ground on one terminal,and use a switched ignition on the other from whaterver source youd like(fuse panel,ignition,etc)

 

[zierbox 10+ year member]

How do you want the isolator to work?

Why and when do you want to separate the batteries?

The answer to theses questions will determine how to wire the relay

 

[jkok7 10+ year member]

I want my rear battery to solely be used for my stereo system alone. And my front battery to operate all my other car components. In the Pac-200 description it says: "Great for isolating second battery in boats making it dedicated only to the stereo system.

. Keeps primary starting battery from being drained to the point of stranding you in the middle of lake, river or ocean.

. Unlike Dual Battery Isolators, the PAC-200 does not create any voltage drop to the secondary battery".

Cuz whenever I get on the freeway and play my music for about 2 minutes, the check battery light comes on. So then I turn it off for about 10 seconds and that light goes off. Then I turn my system back on. This cycle continues until I get off the freeway and onto a regular street. I was told that an Isolator would help that by allowing my front battery to not be used for my stereo system at all. I hope this helps.