Battery Gauge goes into the red zone.

[ColterDC 10+ year member]

So I went to get the alternator checked out at pepboys, and everything turned out fine...Another guy there said that I needed another battery because the subs are pulling too much power or something... and he also suggested a capacitor...

I'm sure the guy working at PepBoys knows about car audio. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

The simple fact that he said you need a capacitor proves he doesn't know jack ****.

Before you buy yet another battery, get a H/O Alt first.

 

[Nesto1000 10+ year member]

I'm sure the guy working at PepBoys knows about car audio. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif
The simple fact that he said you need a capacitor proves he doesn't know jack ****.

Before you buy yet another battery, get a H/O Alt first.

I tried looking for one at AdvanceAutoParts and AutoZone, but all that they have are 136A Alternators...

Where can I find a H/O Alternator at?

 

[ColterDC 10+ year member]

Well I've bought mine from Mechman, but there are a few good ones out there that a little searching on this site will reveal (I believe DC Power is another people on here order from)

But are you even sure that a new Alt or Battery or whatever is needed? Instead of going to PepBoys or Autozone, go to a real mechanic shop and have a real mechanic look at your gauge problem.

I'm just wondering if besides the gauge jumping up to "H" are you noticing anything else happening such as the amp/stereo cutting out, your vehicle rpm's dropping or anything else? If nothing else is happening, then why bother buying anything when all you may have is a gauge problem as the guy a few posts up noted some possible causes. For instance in my mustang the rpm gauge sometime just sits at 0 when the car is running and then for whatever reason it decides to start working. Doesn't effect my car or stereo and according to my mechanic friend and several Mustang experts, Fords are known for having funky gauges, so you either spend a bunch of time and money fixing it or just ignore it since it's not hurting anything.

Know what I mean.

 

[ColterDC 10+ year member]

Btw, who installed the amp and subs for you?

I'm wondering because if your vehicle wasn't doing this before you had it installed, then clearly whoever installed it F-ed up the install. If it was some "professional" shop I'd be back there ripping them a new one, but if it was some dumbtard friend you might have been better off finding someone who knew what the hell they were doing.

 

[Dirtrider4eva 10+ year member]

yea sounds like you need a new alternator, had a similar issue with my jeep.was hauling *** down the highway when my bat. guage dropped to 9v and my check guages light came on.

I'm

Running 3000 watts daily.. 2 batteries, big 3, stock 100 amp alt, and never really dropped under 13.. Off his sony amp he'll be fine... Sound like an old battery or ground.

 

[Nesto1000 10+ year member]

Wow yea I think that ima hold off on that alternator...

I might take it to a mechanic this weekend when I get my tires aligned...

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

In the event you DO need a new alt, you won't be able to afford a quality H/O alt, assuming by your budget gear, and lack of ability to find quality used gear. So the 136a alt you mentioned earlier would do the trick... it's twice as powerful as mine

 

[Nesto1000 10+ year member]

Well, I give up... I don't think that ima buy a new H/O Alt anytime soon...

I've decided to just let the problem be... It's a bit annoying but I guess that I can deal with not having the volume all the way up... at least until I put in new door speakers... Then if the problem persists, I'll take it to a mechanic to check it out...

 

[Vossy 10+ year member]

Take a multimeter, and find out what your voltage is when the vehicles off and when it's on.

 

[Toofast4u 10+ year member]

The shops down here ****, I've been to almost every one trust me. Lol at the guy who told you the subs are pulling power. What's the name of the shop?

Something is probably VERY wrong with your wiring, there's no reason for you to be having voltage problems like this. I'm also pretty sure your stock alternator is over 100 amps.

 

[Nesto1000 10+ year member]

The shops down here ****, I've been to almost every one trust me. Lol at the guy who told you the subs are pulling power. What's the name of the shop?
Something is probably VERY wrong with your wiring, there's no reason for you to be having voltage problems like this. I'm also pretty sure your stock alternator is over 100 amps.

Uhhh... I can't remember... Might have been Big Jaes Audio... idr...

 

[ColterDC 10+ year member]

Something is probably VERY wrong with your wiring, there's no reason for you to be having voltage problems like this. I'm also pretty sure your stock alternator is over 100 amps.

This is what I keep saying. Unlike almost every other post reporting voltage drop, he's saying his battery gauge is jumping up, indicating a voltage increase!! But if nothing is effected by this then it's got to simply be a problem with the gauge.

I'm really wondering if the person who installed his system (which I've asked him 2 times to say who installed it, but no luck) spliced into a wire connected to the gauge and whenever he cranks the stereo up the gauge is reading the voltage coming out of the deck or amp, etc.

You need to take a multi meter and check the voltage at the battery and amp with the system at a lower volume (battery gauge at normal) and with the system cranked up (battery gauge at "H") and see if there really is an increase in voltage or if your gauge is just messed up.

 

[ColterDC 10+ year member]

In the event you DO need a new alt, you won't be able to afford a quality H/O alt, assuming by your budget gear, and lack of ability to find quality used gear. So the 136a alt you mentioned earlier would do the trick... it's twice as powerful as mine

No doubt man. Provided his battery and Alt are in good working order, a 135amp Alt should be perfectly fine for his system.

By comparision my truck is running a 135 amp alt with an Autozone battery. Running at least twice the watts as him, 2 dvd screen, lights and heater on, towing a 20 ft trailer up the canyon and I have no voltage problems.

But then again my **** is hooked up correctly, unlike the obvious wiring problem he's got going on.

 

[Nesto1000 10+ year member]

No doubt man. Provided his battery and Alt are in good working order, a 135amp Alt should be perfectly fine for his system.
By comparision my truck is running a 135 amp alt with an Autozone battery. Running at least twice the watts as him, 2 dvd screen, lights and heater on, towing a 20 ft trailer up the canyon and I have no voltage problems.

But then again my **** is hooked up correctly, unlike the obvious wiring problem he's got going on.

Some random guy did it for me... cost me almost as much to install it as the components cost me, but I supposedly paid him so that this **** wouldn't happen... I guess that I'll buy a new amp from Frys later on and have them look at the wiring...

 

[MECHMAN 10+ year member]

I see a couple issues present.

First off, DO NOT waste your money on a capacitor. Yes, I said waste and that's what it is.

Your Duralast flooded battery is probably not up to the task of your amplifier even if it is on the smaller side.

Your alternator may be fine for this system once your battery capacity is up to par.

Run a 1/0 ground from the alternator mount directly to the battery negative, replace the battery with a quality AGM battery and see what happens. I'm in the business of building and selling alternators but that isn't always the first solution.

The base alternator for your truck is 136a, pretty good for an OEM unit, but if you need more I can build from 220a to 320a as a bolt-in.

Also, check your voltage with a real voltmeter, don't trust the factory gauge.