battery floating voltages

[riddla 10+ year member]

I checked my voltages on my batteries today and with the car off, im getting 12.32 on each battery. The main battery is a standard battery and the 2nd battery is a enery hawker same spec as the Oddyssey p2150. With car on, im gettin a reading of 14.2v on each battery. The main battery is very old so I will change it. Does my Voltages seem to be ok

Click to read more...

 

[oni 10+ year member]

Without diving to deep into it, I would say your alternator is fine because your idling voltage is good but your resting is too low, should rest at 12.7 iirc.

 

[loopkiller 10+ year member]

When checking the voltage of a battery, remove the NEG- connections, then test. With the battery connected to the circuit, you are seeing the combined voltage of both batteries, plus any load that may be dropping the voltage as well. If you are trying to see what voltage you have with the car on, you are seeing your alternator voltage at the battery. You may see a small (0.1v) drop at the rear battery.

The AGM battery should rest above 12.7v and the flooded around 12.6v when they are fully charged. However, if you have them connected together without an isolator, they will average each other out. Most likely around 12.7ish.

 

[riddla 10+ year member]

I will buy a new main battery tommorow. The 2nd bat I have was 2nd hand when I bought it and i never had a dmm at the time to check it but was told it was good but that means nothing. I know that it may be the case that the 2nd bat has dropped to rest with the main bat. I will give the 2nd bat a good charge before i put in a new main one and hopefully it should be ok i hope

 

[loopkiller 10+ year member]

It should come back fine as long as it is a good battery. If you plan on parking the car for more than a day or two, just remove the NEG- wires from the back battery.

 

[riddla 10+ year member]

I Will do as you said Loopkiller and test them this way. Sometimes I park the car in the garage for 2weeks as its a show car so do I remove both negatives or just the 2nd battery negative as thats the easiest one to get to at the minute ?

 

[loopkiller 10+ year member]

The rear one is the most important. Some cars have issues if you unplug the starting battery.

 

[riddla 10+ year member]

Thanx Loopkiller, ur always most helpful //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif I'm as we speak on the lookout for a new starter bat and will go for a standard type bat with at least 110ah and over 650 cranking amps if thats any good. My current bat is 72ah and I have not changed it in the 2.5yrs I have owned the car but its been very good to me considering and never failed to start on a freezing cold morning. Its still good but resting a bit to low now //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[riddla 10+ year member]

Just recieved my battery this morning. Here is a link to it, nothing special but hopefully shold do the job.

http://www.tayna.co.uk/019-Numax-Car-Battery-P1725.html (specifications will tell u more)

When I disconnected both batteries from each other, they were both reading 12.6V but when connected to each other, 12.32V. Anyway, Still, It was time I changed the starter battery and the Energy Hawker is on charge now for the day until tomorow when I fit them both back up

 

[riddla 10+ year member]

any opinions guys

 

[stilltippin863 10+ year member]

i am running 14.6 when cold and when warm i am running 14.0-14 with car on and then when csar is off it sits at 12.7 and then goes to 12.5 is this ok

i am running titiunim battery from autozone up front and brand new redtop in back

p.s. i also just oreded the stinger sgp32 isolator i always got a check on my back battery volts i got a digital stinger volt meter that stays on all the time

 

[loopkiller 10+ year member]

any opinions guys

On paper looks good, but since I have never used that brand, it is hard to say. Put it in there and beat it up //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

Let us know how it works out.

i am running 14.6 when cold and when warm i am running 14.0-14 with car on and then when csar is off it sits at 12.7 and then goes to 12.5 is this ok
i am running titiunim battery from autozone up front and brand new redtop in back

p.s. i also just oreded the stinger sgp32 isolator i always got a check on my back battery volts i got a digital stinger volt meter that stays on all the time

Good luck running that Red top isolated with your audio system. Just so you know, it voids the warranty the second you power your audio system with that battery. Should have bought at least the Yellow top.

 

[riddla 10+ year member]

yep, will let you know how it goes //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Skip01 5,000+ posts]

Get them both load tested from autozone.

One could read 12v but once a load is put on it it'll be more of a strain on ur electrical system than helping

 

[riddla 10+ year member]

there is a place near by me where I can get this done. I will look into it