Battery, Alternator, Caps, Power Cables

[xxyue188 10+ year member]

Thanks for reading my thread. I am currently using 3 amps and I don't have any power problem with original battery and alternator. (i.e. big 3 is on my car as the original design.)

I have a concern about my alternator and battery if I continue to replace or add amps in.

1. I have seen some high current battery specially for car audio in the market. If I just replace the battery but not the alternator, what would happen?

2. Consider I have to replace the alternator and the battery together, how should I choose them? Should I match up the current that the alternator can handle?

3. Someone told my if I replace the high current alternator, I should be aware of the guage (the big 3) on the cables. I can see the original cables now are about guage 8 or somewhere thicker. Please suggest.

4. I have been told it will be even worst if I just simply add the caps in because it requires even more power from the battery, alternator as the well as lower guage no. cabling. Please suggest.

Any suggestions will be welcome. Thanks for your time to help me.

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[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

1. the new battery will float at a higher voltage, reducing the load on the alternator. an AGM battery is all you need, look at Reserve Current (RC) when comparing batteries. I like DieHard Platinum.

2. not necessary to replace both at the same time, nor necessary to "match" them. alternator choice is dictated by what physically fits and your budget.

3. yes, do the Big 3 before you upgrade the alternator to ensure the least amount of voltage drop. really, the Big 3 should happen with the battery replacement. then wait and upgrade the alt only if you cannot keep voltage above 13V when playing music loudly. monitor voltage with a meter visible from the driver's seat (i.e. cig lighter kind)

4. right, caps are a load, not a source, under most conditions. when they are a source, it's only because voltage has already dropped.

 

[xxyue188 10+ year member]

1. the new battery will float at a higher voltage, reducing the load on the alternator. an AGM battery is all you need, look at Reserve Current (RC) when comparing batteries. I like DieHard Platinum.
2. not necessary to replace both at the same time, nor necessary to "match" them. alternator choice is dictated by what physically fits and your budget.

3. yes, do the Big 3 before you upgrade the alternator to ensure the least amount of voltage drop. really, the Big 3 should happen with the battery replacement. then wait and upgrade the alt only if you cannot keep voltage above 13V when playing music loudly. monitor voltage with a meter visible from the driver's seat (i.e. cig lighter kind)

4. right, caps are a load, not a source, under most conditions. when they are a source, it's only because voltage has already dropped.

Thanks for your reply.

Refer to point 1, I can only see the following parameters. For example pull from the link you sent me, "Cranking Amps: 750; Maximum Output: 750 Amps; Amp Hours: 22". I didn't find RC. Is there other way to interpret from these parameters to RC as you mentioned. Also, for marketing purpose, I know they usually cry out loud for high Watt they can support.

Also, from what you told me in point 3, if I can find all the way from driving to a very long way without any voltage drop under 13V , that means I am safe and don't bother to replace anything from my car. Right?

Thanks again and this is very helpful!

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

This is what I run, 135 min reserve capacity is good.

DieHard Platinum Battery : Deals on Quick Ignition Battery at Sears

 

---------- Post added at 09:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:49 PM ----------

 

A new battery and the big 3 are still good steps to take.

 

[xxyue188 10+ year member]

Yes, I will get the meter and mon the volt during driving. Also, your battery is quite expensive too. I may need to see any alternatives. Thanks for your help!

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

Yes, I will get the meter and mon the volt during driving. Also, your battery is quite expensive too. I may need to see any alternatives. Thanks for your help!

Batteries are expensive bud. Those are some of the best on the market, and cheaper than a lot of others.

If you're not dropping under 13v, I'd still do the Big 3, but you should be safe other than that.

 

[av83 10+ year member]

Yes, I will get the meter and mon the volt during driving. Also, your battery is quite expensive too. I may need to see any alternatives. Thanks for your help!

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/electrical-wiring-classifieds/560529-fs-c-d-batts-cheap-55ah-150ah.html

 

[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

Yes, I will get the meter and mon the volt during driving. Also, your battery is quite expensive too. I may need to see any alternatives. Thanks for your help!

Haha ur in for a wake up call those arent bad priced bateries ..look up xs power and kinetic batteries..this is a expensive hobby