Basic stereo for '78 Lincoln Continental

I need some help on setting up my stereo. It's a 1978 Lincoln Continental. The original 8-track was removed by the previous owner and he had installed a tape deck that was compatible with common ground wiring. I rewired the audio system and installed an Alpine CDA-9856 for my headunit.

The front door speakers are 6.5" Infinity Reference series with the rotating tweeter.

Amplifier is a Profile AP-600 that I had powering a pair of Infinity Reference 6x9s in a 1976 Buick Electra. They sounded very good in that car, and that audio is my benchmark for my Lincoln. I would like it to sound even better since the car is nicer.

The Lincoln had mounts in the rear for 5x7 speakers. I was not happy with the sound from the 5x7 speakers (I had Sonys and then tried Infinity Kappas) and wanted more bass like I had in the above mentioned Buick. I bought some adapter brackets that will allow you to install a 6x9 speaker in a 5x7 location (not sure about these really). I bought some Polk DB series 6x9s that sounded like crap, so I returned them and again went with Infinity speakers.

I was hoping I could get some suggestions on what to do. I would like some more bass, but the way the trunk is designed, I don't think a subwoofer would sound very good as there is a lot of metal and a gas tank in between the cabin and where the subwoofer box would sit. I do not think there is enough room for a free-air subwoofer that hangs from the package tray as the spare tire is in the way and even if I were to move it, I don't think there is enough width for even a small subwoofer.

P1010331.jpg


This is the 5x7 mount with the adapter and the Polks installed. I returned those as they did not meet my expectations and compared to my Infinity Reference 6x9s that I had installed in my Electra, they could not play at my listening level with the same amount of bass without bad distortion--The Infinity Kappa 6x9s that I had now can play at higher levels with a good amount of bass. The 24 gallon gas tank sits under that shelf for the spare tire...so I was thinking that putting a box into the trunk might not sound very loud in the cabin...I would rather keep the sound on the inside of the car as much as is possible.

P1010330.jpg


I have mixed feelings about these adapter brackets...The speakers now sit about an inch and a half lower than a 5x7 would and are not sealed. I plan to seal them as I imagine there is some negative/positive air pressure issues there, especially with the lowend (acoustic short circuit as I have read).

I will cut into the package tray and enlarge the openings if I have to...that is if it would make a real noticeable difference, otherwise I will just seal them and see how that sounds.

Are Infinity Kappa speakers worth the price? Fry's charges $190 with tax for them (I can get them for $100 less online but I wanted to hear them first.)

It was recommended on another forum that I look at Tang Band 6x9 woofers...are those worth it? I would have 2 of those in the back and then have to buy some sort of component set I guess.

 
you could fit so much car audio in that viechle

the rear deck.... how much flat area does it have between where the glass is - and where the back seats start.

I ask because ... this is how I re did my rear deck. I could only fit a 8" back there - but if I had the room I would of used a 10"

edit - aw crap I just saw that you said you have like no room to mount anything in the middle area - whell....

search out shallow mount subwoofers. if you do mount in in the rear deck - then it will have reduced power handling because of being ib.

but it should still be an improvment over having no woofer at all.

PICT0033-1.jpg


 
is that really how the adapter is suppose to work? Can you turn the speaker around so the magnet is going in the direction your cone is in the pictures. Then, come in from the top of the deck to get a better seal? If you can't do that, I would make your own or pay someone to make you just some simple MDF adapters.

AND If you have a decent front stage you can deaden and possibly brace the rear deck and try those 6x9" subwoofers without having a need for midrange or tweets in the back. I have never tried the 6x9" subs, but if you really dont want to put a sub in the trunk it may be your only option.

 
I say cut the holes and seal it up. Get a good set of components for the front and some 6x9 subs. If you seal your doors and do it right youll have a good front stage (rear is not necessary in this case) and then a nice little low end from the back. I would def try to amp the fronts too

ps im jerking off to your car

 
ps im jerking off to your car
let's keep that to a minimum

I will seal the things up soon and see what it yields...Cutting will be my last resort. I would prefer if the speakers don't mount from the top as it seems like the grills that are offered nowadays look like ghetto silver spider webs. Yes that is how the adapters are supposed to work. The way they give them to you is less than ideal but I can probably make it work. The car is designed so everything mounts flush, which is probably how that Plymouth was when it rolled off the line-if it even had rear speakers from the factory.

I will snap a picture of the package tray tomorrow so you can see what I am working with. It looks like there is enough room from the top, but when you look at the bottom, the torsion bars for the trunk are located about where I would want a subwoofer to hang.

Those Cadence speakers look pretty heavy duty...I wonder how they sound like.

I have been listening to Blue Oyster Cult and Judas Priest for the last few months and I am pretty much only listening to classic rock and modern rock if that helps.

Would you recommend those deadening tiles for the rear deck or something like dynamat xtreme?

 
when I was re doing my rear deck - I used 1/2" plywood on top of the metal back there - and used spray foam to glue it down

along with a fiew screws - but the windown angle was a problem.

factory had a little piece of 1/8" particle board or something back there that had deteriorated with time.

my 6x9 holes in the deck were also not idealy located due to the trunk springs / torson bars back there so when I made the piece of plywood to go on top - I had moved them fowards a little bit. I also pre cut out the hole for the 8" back there in the wood

and in mock up - I drew out where it would land in the metal with a sharpie - and used a dremel tool cut off wheel to carefully

cut out where I needed to in the rear deck metal.

since I used a expanding foam to secure the wood to the rear deck it has no rattles at all. - but I would not expect your rear deck to rattle either - so unless it gives you unwanted noises - id not do any sound deadning on it yet.

let us know how it ends up working out for ya - and post up pix of the process cause that car is sweet **** bro

 
What is good material to use for sealant? Should I get something that stays tacky (does not harden). I was reading the thread about deadening door panels and that guy had some sort of clay.

Also, on those Tangband 6x9 speakers...They offer a model with a paper cone and also a model with a polypropylene cone...which is better?

Also, the frequency response on these Tangband speakers is about the same on the lowend as the current Infinity Kappas...will these just be much louder at those lower frequencies? My amp has active crossovers lowpass and highpass.

 
I have a 93 towncar, looks similar in the trunk. i removed my spare tire, put a 1.5cube box with 2 10s in it on that shelf. got good bass out of the trunk, then i just left my spare in the trunk floor

 
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