Basic Car Audio Setup/Build Question

[mrfr3sh2def]

Hello All,

I am new to the forum and would like to get some input on my build and possibly some help if any of you are so intrigued (i am not new to car audio but new to good quality builds/sound). Before I get into the guts of it I guess I should tell you what I have right now and what I am looking to do.

Car:

2006 Honda Accord Coupe V6 Navi

Currently Running:

Stock HU

2x Kenwood 6.5 (i will grab model #s later)

2x Kenwood 6x9s (i will grab model #s later)

1x Kicker 15" L7 (sold)

1x Kicker DX1000.1 (process of selling)

1x Kicker DX400.4 (process of selling)

Stock Electrical

4 Gauge run

1 small Kinetik battery (can't remember which 1)

The Plan/System Layout:

1x Kenwood 6.5 Component set (to be placed in kick panels - need to purchase)

1x Kenwood 6.5s set (already installed from previous)

2x Kenwood Dome Tweeter (custom mounted in doors - need to purchase)

1x Kenwood 6x9s (already installed from previous)

2x SSA XCON 12" (already have - custom box being built)

1x Orion 2500d ran at .5 ohm (already have) (i know its underpowered for these subs but i like the nostalgia and I am not competing or anything)

2x Orion 4002 (ordered)

1x Kenwood DD HU (need to pick)

0 gauge runs of KnuKonceptz OFC

My Questions:

1) Will I be able to run the following components off of my 2x orion 4002's and my HU?

set of 6.5's, set of tweets, set of components and a set of 6x9s

2) Will I need to upgrade my stock alternator/battery (AAA)

3) If extra batteries are needed how many do you think I will need and recommendations (I am looking to stay between 14-16v)?

Speaker/Amp Ratings:

Orion 4002

RMS Power Output:

150 watts x 2 chan. @ 4 Ohms

200 watts x 2 chan. @ 2 Ohms

400 watts x 2 chan. @ 4 Ohms Bridged

Orion 2500d

RMS Power Output:

1200 watts x 1 chan. @ 4 Ohms

1700 watts x 1 chan. @ 2 Ohms

2500 watts x 1 chan. @ 1 Ohm (stable at .5 and can produce close to 3500 w/ proper electrical)

SSA XCon 12" D1

1750W

(i will get the rest of the speaker info later today)

Thoughts/Recommendations? I also considered going w/ a AQ 2200 and a AQ 120.4 (any opinions on those or would you recommend sticking with the Orions)? I know you all see this type of questions all of the time and trust me when I say that I have read MANY of the previous threads on the same type of stuff just want some general perspective on my build.

Thanks for taking the time to read this and I look forward to contributing to the forum //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

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[dubstepper1000]

Hello All,
I am new to the forum and would like to get some input on my build and possibly some help if any of you are so intrigued (i am not new to car audio but new to good quality builds/sound). Before I get into the guts of it I guess I should tell you what I have right now and what I am looking to do.

Car:

2006 Honda Accord Coupe V6 Navi

Currently Running:

Stock HU

2x Kenwood 6.5 (i will grab model #s later)

2x Kenwood 6x9s (i will grab model #s later)

1x Kicker 15" L7 (sold)

1x Kicker DX1000.1 (process of selling)

1x Kicker DX400.4 (process of selling)

Stock Electrical

4 Gauge run

1 small Kinetik battery (can't remember which 1)

The Plan/System Layout:

1x Kenwood 6.5 Component set (to be placed in kick panels - need to purchase)

1x Kenwood 6.5s set (already installed from previous)

2x Kenwood Dome Tweeter (custom mounted in doors - need to purchase)

1x Kenwood 6x9s (already installed from previous)

2x SSA XCON 12" (already have - custom box being built)

1x Orion 2500d ran at .5 ohm (already have) (i know its underpowered for these subs but i like the nostalgia and I am not competing or anything)

2x Orion 4002 (ordered)

1x Kenwood DD HU (need to pick)

0 gauge runs of KnuKonceptz OFC

My Questions:

1) Will I be able to run the following components off of my 2x orion 4002's and my HU?

set of 6.5's, set of tweets, set of components and a set of 6x9s

2) Will I need to upgrade my stock alternator/battery (AAA)

3) If extra batteries are needed how many do you think I will need and recommendations (I am looking to stay between 14-16v)?

Speaker/Amp Ratings:

Orion 4002

RMS Power Output:

150 watts x 2 chan. @ 4 Ohms

200 watts x 2 chan. @ 2 Ohms

400 watts x 2 chan. @ 4 Ohms Bridged

Orion 2500d

RMS Power Output:

1200 watts x 1 chan. @ 4 Ohms

1700 watts x 1 chan. @ 2 Ohms

2500 watts x 1 chan. @ 1 Ohm (stable at .5 and can produce close to 3500 w/ proper electrical)

SSA XCon 12" D1

1750W

(i will get the rest of the speaker info later today)

Thoughts/Recommendations? I also considered going w/ a AQ 2200 and a AQ 120.4 (any opinions on those or would you recommend sticking with the Orions)? I know you all see this type of questions all of the time and trust me when I say that I have read MANY of the previous threads on the same type of stuff just want some general perspective on my build.

Thanks for taking the time to read this and I look forward to contributing to the forum //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

not entirely sure about #1 but for number 2, it would be a good idea and theoretically it would work, but overtime your existing electrical system with go out and you will have to end up replacing it anyway. I would suggest deep cycle batteries and an alternator upgrade to be safe.

 

[supra1987]

If running 2 xcons,I would lose the 6x9's.keep it simple.probaly should get an agm battery up front and another for amps,maybe an alternator.i'd stay with the 2500.never ran one but for some reason I want one.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

adding batteries will not help you stay above 14V. batteries maintain 12.5-12.8V. batteries are loads that need to be recharged.

only the alternator maintains 14.4V. keeping system consumption under alternator output is how you keep voltage above 14V.

you want an H.O. alt to maintain 14V. get one with an adjustable output regulator if you want more than 14.4V.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

the Orion 4002's can run all of the speakers listed.

you have too many tweeters listed. don't add extra. just put the component tweeters in the dash locations.

rear 6x9 will be distorted by the subs in the trunk. bass will be louder if you leave the 6x9 holes empty.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

our accords have an electronic load detector that will turn the alt off while driving to save fuel. the PCM monitors voltage drop across the ELD. voltage drop across the ELD varies with ignition current. keeping the ELD on requires running A/C constantly. the ELD does not monitor head lights or any other wiring added to the system. you want to bypass the ELD if you want to keep the alt output high.

i explain the ELD bypass process here:

Honda Electrical Load Detection (ELD) Bypass - Honda Accord Forum - Honda Accord Enthusiast Forums

 

[mrfr3sh2def]

wow, awesome. Thanks for all of the great input and feedback thus far. Special thanks to keep_hope_alive for giving some very valuable and educated feedback with some threads to back it. I will talk to my friend on TDH and see what he thinks and what he would like to do with the build as well.

I requested a quote from Singer Alternators earlier today still waiting for a response. Any other places to get some good H.O. alternators for our accords for a "good" price.

I've done car audio a ton of different times but now I want to do it "the right way" so I would prefer to get something of good/better quality rather than having to replace stuff time and time again.

 

[mrfr3sh2def]

Also, do you think the 6x9s will still be distorted by the subs even with the subs facing into the cabin? I am thinking of completely removing the backseats or keeping them always in the folded down position for this build. I am also highly considering running a separate EQ in my middle console. I have never run a system with this much power output before so it is all still a learning experience. I know the subs are going to be stupid loud but I still wouldn't mind actually hearing the music as well //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Justin braaapp]

wow, awesome. Thanks for all of the great input and feedback thus far. Special thanks to keep_hope_alive for giving some very valuable and educated feedback with some threads to back it. I will talk to my friend on TDH and see what he thinks and what he would like to do with the build as well.
I requested a quote from Singer Alternators earlier today still waiting for a response. Any other places to get some good H.O. alternators for our accords for a "good" price.

I've done car audio a ton of different times but now I want to do it "the right way" so I would prefer to get something of good/better quality rather than having to replace stuff time and time again.

Id stick with singer, just from when I was pricing my alt out with different company's the owner of singer was always fast to respond and really helpful/polite. They have really good customer service from my experience

 

[mrfr3sh2def]

thanks Justin, I will wait to hear back from them.

 

[mrfr3sh2def]

the Orion 4002's can run all of the speakers listed.
you have too many tweeters listed. don't add extra. just put the component tweeters in the dash locations.

rear 6x9 will be distorted by the subs in the trunk. bass will be louder if you leave the 6x9 holes empty.

Hey Keep_hope_alive

I already went ahead and purchased 2 of the Orion 4002 today (new) for about $350 for the pair. Not to long after I made the purchase I found a new Orion 8002 along with a used Orion PHD 300 Control Panel to go along with it for approximately the same price give or take a few $. From your experience and the setup I mentioned above, what do you think would suit my build better? I could always send back the 2 4002s. Let me know what you think, I have no experience with either amps. I will also be taking your advice and just be running a set of components in a QLogic kick panel setup along with a fresh set of 6.5's in my door. (not sure yet about what to do w/ my 6x9s). Fyi - the main thing I want to do is make sure my mids/highs are not completely drowned out by all of the bass the xcons produce.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Speakers Info:

Orion 4002

RMS Power Output:

150 watts x 2 chan. @ 4 Ohms

200 watts x 2 chan. @ 2 Ohms

400 watts x 2 chan. @ 4 Ohms Bridged

Orion 8002

2-Channel Amplifier

200 watts x 2 chan. @ 4 Ohms

400 watts x 2 chan. @ 2 Ohms

800 watts x 1 chan. @ 4 Ohms (Bridged)

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

you won't hear a difference between the 4002 and 8002. a 50W increase would be about 1dB louder. not worth returning the 4002 unless you want to run kicks and doors on the same amp. i'd prefer separate amps to blend them in level.

 

[mrfr3sh2def]

you won't hear a difference between the 4002 and 8002. a 50W increase would be about 1dB louder. not worth returning the 4002 unless you want to run kicks and doors on the same amp. i'd prefer separate amps to blend them in level.

Thanks again keep_hope_alive for the on point recommendation!

I also spoke to a few of the guys out here in my area and they informed me to get rid of the 6x9s as well. So i have instead decided to run my setup as follows: Let me know what you think (i even sketched out a little pic of what i am thinking) fyi - i will no longer have any back seats :x



Electrical: Big 3 (Of Course)

Singer Alternator - 240A - 160A idle (260A peak)

Front Battery - XS Power D4700 2900 Amp 12 Volt

Rear Battery - Kinetic HC3800 - 135ah

Rear: 2 12" XCons

Mid (custom staged wall behind front seats but not fully walled): 2 Vifa NE25VTS-04 silk dome tweets

4 6.5" Mids (no brand selected yet)

Front (Doors & QLogic Kick Panels): 2 Vifa NE25VTS-04 silk dome tweets (placed in QLogic kick panels)

2 6.5" (placed in QLogic kick panels)

2 6.5" (placed in stock door panels)

Any recommendations on a good 6.5? Price range is no more than $50/per) [obviously going for high output and high quality w/ little to no distortion at high volumes] Also wanted it to be paired good with my amp (i plan on running the 8 6.5's on 1 4002 and the 4 tweets on the other). With that being said I assume i will need 8 8ohm 6.5s that will handle roughly 50rms each very well at 2ohm load.

Also, i still need to pick out a HU and I have chosen the Clarion EQS746 as my EQ.

Let me know what you think //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-pk165-8-6-professional-kevlar-paper-cone-midrange-speaker--295-020

https://www.parts-express.com/tymphany-fsl-0615r02-08-professional-6-1-2-midrange-woofer-driver-8-ohm--264-1402

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-pa165-8-6-pa-driver-speaker--295-015

 

[mrfr3sh2def]

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-pk165-8-6-professional-kevlar-paper-cone-midrange-speaker--295-020
https://www.parts-express.com/tymphany-fsl-0615r02-08-professional-6-1-2-midrange-woofer-driver-8-ohm--264-1402

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-pa165-8-6-pa-driver-speaker--295-015

****, I did not realize that you could get great sound out of such a cheap speaker! You are the man keep_hope_alive! I went ahead and ordered a set of these just to try them out to see if i like them and if all is well I will go ahead and order 6 more. You just saved me a ton of money sir!