Bad volt drop

if you have done the BIG 3 then you already have a good chassis to battery ground, just ground the rear battery to the chassis as well, you dont need to run a ground all the way back it rarely if ever has any impact at all if you did the B3 upgrade correctly.

 
I am still having about the same drop i have check and clean all connections. I am going to check wit the dmm on the back battery this weekend and my just get another The back battery is a red top and the from is a run of the mill battery its the biggest i could fit in the car. The Alt was built for me by a good friend i have had it checked and its working right So i guessing its the back battery front one is new back one has some age on it

 
so i am wrong cuz your friend says so in his thread? lol ok

you ever had a ground loop and know what to do to fix it? mutiple grounds to a common device is it what causes it so not running (wasting good wire IMHO) wire from the front battery is 1 less source of a ground loop.

what is the dif of the huge resistance in a long wire run to the front battery or the minimal resistance difference in the vehicle frame by doing both as close to each battery as possible right to the frame.?

everyone has an opinion on it but i rarely see anyone actually use a ground run from the front unless they compete and the sponsor supplies the wire to them, or they have money to burn.

I'll do it my way thanks 20+ yrs and never had 1 issue with it.

 
so i am wrong cuz your friend says so in his thread? lol ok
you ever had a ground loop and know what to do to fix it? mutiple grounds to a common device is it what causes it so not running (wasting good wire IMHO) wire from the front battery is 1 less source of a ground loop.

what is the dif of the huge resistance in a long wire run to the front battery or the minimal resistance in the vehicle frame by doing both as close to each battery as possible right to the frame.?

everyone has an opinion on it but i rarely see anyone actually use a ground run from the front unless they compete and the sponsor supplies the wire to them, or they have money to burn.

I'll do it my way thanks 20+ yrs and never had 1 issue with it.
So if I offered you these two different conductors for your power wire and asked you to choose, which would you use?

1) 1/0 Pure Copper (OFC)

2) 20 sections of braided steel cable welded together

 
I never saw you state what RPM you were testing at. If you are testing at idle alot of high output alternators put out lower amperage at idle than the stock ones do. Do a few tests, one at idle, 1k rpm 1500 rpm 2k rpm and see what you get.

Also if you are dropping that low in voltage it does sound like there may be a connection issue as well. Make sure your grounds are sanded to bare metal and I like to use an actual bolt and nut and washers on either side to really get the terminal making good contact. Grab a torch and some solder and fill your ring terminals with solder if you want.

 
so i am wrong cuz your friend says so in his thread? lol ok
you ever had a ground loop and know what to do to fix it? mutiple grounds to a common device is it what causes it so not running (wasting good wire IMHO) wire from the front battery is 1 less source of a ground loop.

what is the dif of the huge resistance in a long wire run to the front battery or the minimal resistance in the vehicle frame by doing both as close to each battery as possible right to the frame.?

everyone has an opinion on it but i rarely see anyone actually use a ground run from the front unless they compete and the sponsor supplies the wire to them, or they have money to burn.

I'll do it my way thanks 20+ yrs and never had 1 issue with it.
??? your post is rather difficult to understand. If you wish you can refer to this website that gives instructions for adding a second battery to your electrical system.

http://www.fridge-and-solar.net/dual_bat.htm

When you add a second battery to your vehicle like the OP has all you are doing is basically creating one big battery. Lets say the batteries were side by side would you still connect the second battery to the frame of the vehicle or would you connect the two terminals together with a copper wire? Steel is a poor conductor of electricity it has a very high electrical resistance and will cause voltage drop as a result of its resistance. This is why while your way may work it is not the best way to connect the two batteries together. You even said yourself that high end competition vehicles use copper wire to connect the negative leads on the batteries together sure it will cost more but if your trying to be cheap why add a second battery at all? If your going to do the job do it right the first time. As for a ground loop being caused by connecting the battery negative terminals together from what i understand a ground loop is caused by a difference in potential between the two grounds on the batteries. If your sole ground in the rear battery is to the frame or chassis of your car your going to have a lot higher resistance on the rear battery than the front battery because again steel is a poor conductor of electricity and the current flowing from the rear battery is trying to make its way back to its source in the front of the vehicle. Having a copper wire that goes from the front of the vehicle to the rear while it will have resistance the difference in potential will not be that great.

 
sorry i forgot 1 word so it sounded wrong but i edited it sometimes i tyope to fast and miss a word I am human //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif the correct way is to run a ground wire but it isnt critical IMHO

 
??? your post is rather difficult to understand. If you wish you can refer to this website that gives instructions for adding a second battery to your electrical system. http://www.fridge-and-solar.net/dual_bat.htm

When you add a second battery to your vehicle like the OP has all you are doing is basically creating one big battery. Lets say the batteries were side by side would you still connect the second battery to the frame of the vehicle or would you connect the two terminals together with a copper wire? Steel is a poor conductor of electricity it has a very high electrical resistance and will cause voltage drop as a result of its resistance. This is why while your way may work it is not the best way to connect the two batteries together. You even said yourself that high end competition vehicles use copper wire to connect the negative leads on the batteries together sure it will cost more but if your trying to be cheap why add a second battery at all? If your going to do the job do it right the first time. As for a ground loop being caused by connecting the battery negative terminals together from what i understand a ground loop is caused by a difference in potential between the two grounds on the batteries. If your sole ground in the rear battery is to the frame or chassis of your car your going to have a lot higher resistance on the rear battery than the front battery because again steel is a poor conductor of electricity and the current flowing from the rear battery is trying to make its way back to its source in the front of the vehicle. Having a copper wire that goes from the front of the vehicle to the rear while it will have resistance the difference in potential will not be that great.
if you ground the rear battery and amps together to the frame, at the same spot it, will help eliminate the ground loop potential because they are sharing a common ground so they would both have equal ground resistance.

there are more cars on the road with 1 battery than 2 that have ground loop issues. I have never had an install that added a 2nd battery and caused a ground loop noise issue.

 
I am gettin ticked lol it is a lil better i guess i will try 2 new batteries and see what happens. I took a reading on back battery wit car off its resting at like 8.4 volts or so i guessing this cant be saved wit a charger ??

 
Ok wit the car on and radio off i am getting a 14.4 wit the dmm on back battery and when car is off its sitting at about 12.4 wats going on should i check the alt it is like brand new i am in va is it free for napa or advance to check it ??

 
Hey guys i got semi good news my drop it getting better It has gone from dropping to 9 to high 11s almost 12. Is there anything else i can do ? i got a lil bigger battery from up front and redid all my connections

 
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