B Stock Damp Pro?

[Based]

Ok so I'm prepared to spend the 120$ on 30 sq ft of Damplifier Pro, but only if it's good...

I can either spend 120$ on 30 sq ft of B Stock or I can spend 115$ on 20 sq ft of A stock.

Obviously if the B Stock product is good then it's a better investment, but I don't want to buy this stuff and get a second rate product. So what should I do......???

The system I'm doing this for is 4 15s on 3K watts, if that makes a difference.

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[Based]

??????????

 

[fatboytyler]

36 Sq Ft. packs of Stinger Roadkill on Sonic for $100. Hard to beat for price.

EDIT: What vehicle? My truck doors took over 30 Sq Ft all together. Grant it that was 98% coverage on both doors, but still.

 

[Based]

36 Sq Ft. packs of Stinger Roadkill on Sonic for $100. Hard to beat for price.

EDIT: What vehicle? My truck doors took over 30 Sq Ft all together. Grant it that was 98% coverage on both doors, but still.

2003 supercrew f150. I measured my doors' height and width and multiplied... 2 feet wide 2 feet tall in the back so that's 4 sq feet per back door. 2 wide 3 tall in the front so that's 6 per front so that = 20 sq ft for 100% coverage not counting the inside. But I don't think they need 100%?

 

[Umbra]

I just used some B-Stock KnoKnoise from Knukoncepts and it got the job done. They said it was listed as B-Stock because it was stacked incorrectly or something and it was a little squished. The butyl ran passed the edges in some spots, but other than that it was good. All I had to do was trim off some excess.

I went with Knu because it was cheaper, but they don't always offer B Stock. Damplifier Pro was my first choice, though. If it's anything like that it's fine.

 

[fatboytyler]

2003 supercrew f150. I measured my doors' height and width and multiplied... 2 feet wide 2 feet tall in the back so that's 4 sq feet per back door. 2 wide 3 tall in the front so that's 6 per front so that = 20 sq ft for 100% coverage not counting the inside. But I don't think they need 100%?

Mine was a 2000 Tundra access cab. There's noway your front doors are just 2 feet wide.

 

[SounDrive Pro Seller]

Kno Knoise Kolossus is some of the best deadener on the market and it's in your price range. A 35 square foot pack will easily do a whole truck

 

[fatboytyler]

Kno Knoise Kolossus is some of the best deadener on the market and it's in your price range. A 35 square foot pack will easily do a whole truck

By whole truck, what parts are you including?

 

[Based]

Mine was a 2000 Tundra access cab. There's noway your front doors are just 2 feet wide.

Maybe because its a 4 door? All my doors are actual full size doors rather than the fronts being big and the backs being just those half doors.

 

[SounDrive Pro Seller]

By whole truck, what parts are you including?

4 doors, rear of the cab, and roof. If you use good deadener there's absolutely no need for 100% coverage. You're really reaching diminishing returns after about 50%.

CLD tile is made to dampen vibrations, not to add weight. That's what you use MLV for.

 

[fatboytyler]

4 doors, rear of the cab, and roof. If you use good deadener there's absolutely no need for 100% coverage. You're really reaching diminishing returns after about 50%.
CLD tile is made to dampen vibrations, not to add weight. That's what you use MLV for.

I'll have to keep that in mind when I do my back wall. I did **** near everything In my front doors including the holes.

 

[Based]

So what should I use for different spots? My roof I should use MLV (luxury liner pro)? And my back wall and my doors CLD (Damp Pro)? Or I guess I should do like SSAudio's site says and do a layer or two of Damp Pro on my roof and then put LLP over it. Most of the rattle noise is coming from my roof so I think that's a good place to start. I can do the doors later.

Or maybe I should do the doors first since they're easier? I've had people tell me about supporting the roof with wood and gluing the roof braces to the roof then deadening over it. Sounds like a bit of a project. And since I'm gonna have 4 15s on 3K then that might be the only way to go.

 

[SounDrive Pro Seller]

I'll have to keep that in mind when I do my back wall. I did **** near everything In my front doors including the holes.

Doors with speakers in them are a little different, it's good to seal up all the holes and make them into an enclosure of sorts for your door speakers

 

[SounDrive Pro Seller]

[quote name='Based']So what should I use for different spots? My roof I should use MLV (luxury liner pro)? And my back wall and my doors CLD (Damp Pro)? Or I guess I should do like SSAudio's site says and do a layer or two of Damp Pro on my roof and then put LLP over it. Most of the rattle noise is coming from my roof so I think that's a good place to start. I can do the doors later.

Or maybe I should do the doors first since they're easier? I've had people tell me about supporting the roof with wood and gluing the roof braces to the roof then deadening over it. Sounds like a bit of a project. And since I'm gonna have 4 15s on 3K then that might be the only way to go.[/QUOTE]

MLV would be really hard to properly install on the roof. I would do some sort of bracing if possible, then a layer of good CLD tile.

RAAMaudio and Sound Deadener Showdown's websites have a lot of good info on installing different sound deadening products.

Also look at @keep_hope_alive ;'s build logs on here and mobileaudioforum, his deadening is spot on, you'd just need to give a little more focus to the roof since you have a truck

My personal recommendations for CLD tile are Knu Kolossus (best for the price) and Sound Deadener Showdown tiles (best weight to performance) - both perform about the same but the SDS tiles are lighter and more expensive.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

my build logs (linked in sig) show a lot of deadening work. my recent effort on my 2014 Accord is a nice balance of budget-friendly products and proper installation methods. i just finished my front doors this weekend and my methods are based on 10 years of experimentation and testing and they have helped a lot of people (including competitors) get their doors sounding perfect. sound absorption is vital for door cavities.

doors are #1 because speakers are #1 and sound quality is #1 .

MLV is for blocking exterior noise only. the roof is a noise source but so are the windows and seals and we are more concerned with the wheel wells and floor for tire noise (road noise).

deadening/stiffening is a good approach to a roof. stiffening can be achieved in a number of ways - even directly applying fiberglass matte and resin to build up a 1/8" thick layer (have fun doing that upside down without making a mess). or you can glue/jb weld/silicone wood/metal ribs to the metal roof to increase stiffness.