B Stock Damp Pro?

my build logs (linked in sig) show a lot of deadening work. my recent effort on my 2014 Accord is a nice balance of budget-friendly products and proper installation methods. i just finished my front doors this weekend and my methods are based on 10 years of experimentation and testing and they have helped a lot of people (including competitors) get their doors sounding perfect. sound absorption is vital for door cavities.
doors are #1 because speakers are #1 and sound quality is #1 .

MLV is for blocking exterior noise only. the roof is a noise source but so are the windows and seals and we are more concerned with the wheel wells and floor for tire noise (road noise).

deadening/stiffening is a good approach to a roof. stiffening can be achieved in a number of ways - even directly applying fiberglass matte and resin to build up a 1/8" thick layer (have fun doing that upside down without making a mess). or you can glue/jb weld/silicone wood/metal ribs to the metal roof to increase stiffness.
I am def gonna do the wooden ribs on my roof in due time. First I want to get my doors out of the way because they're a little smaller of a job.

Right now, my main priority is to STOP FLEX AND RATTLESSSS. The only doors that flex are my two back ones because that's where my subs are (4 15s). The door panel (the part that shows on the outside of the truck) bends and flaps and makes a lot of noise. The roof does too but like I said I'm doing the doors first. Will a bunch of damp pro on the doors make this stop? If I can make these doors stop flapping like wings then I will deaden my front doors for the sake of SQ from the speakers.

 
36 Sq Ft. packs of Stinger Roadkill on Sonic for $100. Hard to beat for price.

EDIT: What vehicle? My truck doors took over 30 Sq Ft all together. Grant it that was 98% coverage on both doors, but still.
Second Skin is a far better product for minimal money. Make the $130 investment and get Second Skin.

 
4 doors, rear of the cab, and roof. If you use good deadener there's absolutely no need for 100% coverage. You're really reaching diminishing returns after about 50%.
CLD tile is made to dampen vibrations, not to add weight. That's what you use MLV for.
Depends on the product. With a top notch product like SDS or Second Skin 25% coverage on flat surfaces is all thats needed before you hit the price/performance barrier.

Also deadener works in 2 ways. The first is that the butyl layer absorbs vibrations and converts it to heat and dissipates via the aluminum layer. The second is by adding mass and increasing resonance frequency of a panel. MLV is strictly for keeping road noise out and audio in.

 
aight white dragon this Friday when I get paid I will order the Damp Pro B Stock 30 sq ft package and hopefully that stops at least my back doors from moving.

 
Depends on the product. With a top notch product like SDS or Second Skin 25% coverage on flat surfaces is all thats needed before you hit the price/performance barrier.
Also deadener works in 2 ways. The first is that the butyl layer absorbs vibrations and converts it to heat and dissipates via the aluminum layer. The second is by adding mass and increasing resonance frequency of a panel. MLV is strictly for keeping road noise out and audio in.
That's what manufacturers claim, but testing has shown otherwise. The benefits of 25% coverage vs 0% were approximately the same magnitude as the benefits from 100% vs 25%, as shown in the deadener comparison on DIYMA.

And I'm sure you know what you're talking about and mistyped it, but adding weight lowers the resonant frequency.

 
aight white dragon this Friday when I get paid I will order the Damp Pro B Stock 30 sq ft package and hopefully that stops at least my back doors from moving.
It will. You can pick up some closed cell foam from Walmart. In their camping section they have blue rolls that go under sleeping bags in the camping section. Put that on top of the deadener and use a 3M adhesive between panels and on top of the deadener. It will help keep panels from rubbing against each other. They are about $6 a roll.

 
Almost 100% more quantity for a lesser price? Not to mention Stinger Roadkill is still a very highly rated deadener.
Stinger Roadkill is the equivalent of Peel n Seal in the deadener world. Second Skin is one of the best products on the market. 25% coverage will do just fine.

 
Almost 100% more quantity for a lesser price? Not to mention Stinger Roadkill is still a very highly rated deadener.
roadkill feels like my old audiotechnix deadener, does an okay job. Came across a sample of second skin. That stuff is more like sheet metal than deadener, definitely a lot better! Its meant for more extreme levels of SPL vibration control.

 
roadkill feels like my old audiotechnix deadener, does an okay job. Came across a sample of second skin. That stuff is more like sheet metal than deadener, definitely a lot better! Its meant for more extreme levels of SPL vibration control.
Might go with that for my back wall then. Be a lot cheaper abs easier then full coverage

 
Not trying to beat a dead horse but I have some questions. I have read @Keep_hope_alive 2014 build and had a few questions as to the products.

1. Deadener

2. PVC encased fiberglass batt

3. Mass Loaded Vinyl

4. Thermal acoustic barrier

So that is the order he had posted but he had also posted a link to some home depot stuff.

1.dB-3 4 ft. x 8 ft. Acoustical Barrier

2.48 in. x 6 ft. Radiant Barrier

Step 2. PVC encased fiberglass batt --- ?

Step 4. Thermal acoustic barrier--- is both the [48 in. x 6 ft. Radiant Barrier] and [dB-3 4 ft. x 8 ft. Acoustical Barrier] ?

Some clarification on step 2 and 4 products any help would greatly be appreciated

Hope the question is clear.

 
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