- Thread Starter
- #16
I am def gonna do the wooden ribs on my roof in due time. First I want to get my doors out of the way because they're a little smaller of a job.my build logs (linked in sig) show a lot of deadening work. my recent effort on my 2014 Accord is a nice balance of budget-friendly products and proper installation methods. i just finished my front doors this weekend and my methods are based on 10 years of experimentation and testing and they have helped a lot of people (including competitors) get their doors sounding perfect. sound absorption is vital for door cavities.
doors are #1 because speakers are #1 and sound quality is #1 .
MLV is for blocking exterior noise only. the roof is a noise source but so are the windows and seals and we are more concerned with the wheel wells and floor for tire noise (road noise).
deadening/stiffening is a good approach to a roof. stiffening can be achieved in a number of ways - even directly applying fiberglass matte and resin to build up a 1/8" thick layer (have fun doing that upside down without making a mess). or you can glue/jb weld/silicone wood/metal ribs to the metal roof to increase stiffness.
Right now, my main priority is to STOP FLEX AND RATTLESSSS. The only doors that flex are my two back ones because that's where my subs are (4 15s). The door panel (the part that shows on the outside of the truck) bends and flaps and makes a lot of noise. The roof does too but like I said I'm doing the doors first. Will a bunch of damp pro on the doors make this stop? If I can make these doors stop flapping like wings then I will deaden my front doors for the sake of SQ from the speakers.