Awesome old school hardware/advice to "do it right"

[HardcoreBob]

I have bad *** hardware I've held on to for well over a decade, waiting for the right time to use it...

I have a 2011 F150 super crew w/factory hu w/premium Sony Nav...

I plan to use a car audio DQ to be able to add amps, adjust sound stage and have some eq control...

I'm going to be running an old school Precision Power Pcx4125 1000 watt 4 channel (I hear amps don't get much better, been sitting on it for 12 years just waiting for the right time)...

My first question is: If I run my front component speakers on the front channel, will bridging the other channel give me enough power to get good sound out of 2 Rockford Fosgate HX2 1000 watt dual voice 10s (more candy I've been hoarding for over a decade) and if so, how would I wire those 10s?

Are the xovers on a quality amp like this ppi (and xovers in components) sufficient to not necessarily need active xovers?

Thanks, I've been out of the game a long time, and need a lot of help to put my quality hardware I've been saving for a lot of my life to finally one day put in a BAD DUDE system.

I know a lot of people say don't worry about rear fill, so I'm not going to amplify for now....

Question is, what do I do with the rear? Leave wired to factory amp? Upgrade or are the so called premium sonys sufficient for rear fill?

Is it even possible to leave them on factory amp with the DQ line converter?

Also, it has a center channel... same questions... leave it hooked up to factory? Eliminate?

(This is probably a dumb question, but I need to learn? Does wiring the center "in" with the front components make any sense, or does that change some fundamental? I'm sure it does)

I'm an older guy that is still in his prime for KILLER music, so I want to do this right, as far as sound quality and "correctness" if that makes sense.

I have a lot of newb questions though, and appreciate y'all's time and patience.

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[Flipper245]

My opinion for what you call sound quality and correctness. Use the ppi 4 channel to run your mids and tweets and get a proper class d amp for your subs. By proper I mean one that has more than enough rms power to run them.

 

[HardcoreBob]

My opinion for what you call sound quality and correctness. Use the ppi 4 channel to run your mids and tweets and get a proper class d amp for your subs. By proper I mean one that has more than enough rms power to run them.

Thanks... since I'm not going be running amplification on rear channels, just seems like such a waste on such an awesome amp, 2 only be running 2 channels... is what it is though...

If I were to run it as I stated, would I be better served to only use one of the 10s? I know that's a waste too, but hypothetically would I be better off running one?

Thanks for your time btw

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[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

See if you can find another ppi pcx 2 channel for the subs.

The crossovers today are MUCH better.

 

[HardcoreBob]

Thanks... since I'm not going be running amplification on rear channels, just seems like such a waste on such an awesome amp, 2 only be running 2 channels... is what it is though...
If I were to run it as I stated, would I be better served to only use one of the 10s? I know that's a waste too, but hypothetically would I be better off running one?

Thanks for your time btw

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Also, in your opinion, with the crossovers on this amp (which I assume would be relatively top of the line as far as amp crossovers go) and the crossover that came with my components, is there really any need for dedicated active crossover?

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[HardcoreBob]

See if you can find another ppi pcx 2 channel for the subs.The crossovers today are MUCH better.

If it were you, would you just run the ppi 4 channel I have on the subs only, and get a "lesser amp" for components?

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[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Id run that amp on the subs only..They will prob only handle approx 3-500 rms in the correct enclosure/enclosures. Id pick up a two or 4 ch to run your front stage with a little better x over settings if running active.I have 3 of those type amps /smaller sitting if you want keep all PPI..Ive got two PC250s and one PC275,and two PPI additions blue and pretty clean..Special Editions A2050, and A2075..Straight old school clean amps.Be nice to run an EQ to be able to clean up any song/music at your fingertips..Thats me,rather than playing around going through the HU all the time.I like rear fill.Doesnt take much to keep those running clean and clear on about 40 rms and gives you that surround sound affect.Center stage is nice to have as well as long as its not over powering your front stage from the doors, again 20-50 rms.Deff going to need to get your electrical to sustain the needs as most newer vehicles seem to rob power from here and there to supply electrical needs,and or place just enough to meet basic requirements to pass QC.What speakers are you wanting to use up front?Stock? All Stock except the subs?

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Ive never liked stock HUs or systems to be honest.Im sure in the higher end of vehicles with Bose and others, they sound great and do well.Other than that..I feel more at home and find it a little less confusing and frustrating to rip all that out and start from scratch and seem to get better results in the end

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Ive been so tempted to just rip everything out of that HHR I picked up and put some goodies in that I have lying around,but just havent made my mind up on that as of yet.Its fair but not quality that I am so used to thats for sure

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Those RF subs have the biggest pole vent opening....

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

The hx2 can handle 800 easy. Id use the ppi active.

I just bought a twk88. 380 with tax. You can use all 80 bands between the mids and tweeters. Im using 20 bands for per tweeter 10 per mid and 20 for the woofer.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Those RF subs have the biggest pole vent opening....

The power hx2 was one of the first 4" coils. They where meh..

 

[HardcoreBob]

Id run that amp on the subs only..They will prob only handle approx 3-500 rms in the correct enclosure/enclosures. Id pick up a two or 4 ch to run your front stage with a little better x over settings if running active.I have 3 of those type amps /smaller sitting if you want keep all PPI..Ive got two PC250s and one PC275,and two PPI additions blue and pretty clean..Special Editions A2050, and A2075..Straight old school clean amps.Be nice to run an EQ to be able to clean up any song/music at your fingertips..Thats me,rather than playing around going through the HU all the time.I like rear fill.Doesnt take much to keep those running clean and clear on about 40 rms and gives you that surround sound affect.Center stage is nice to have as well as long as its not over powering your front stage from the doors, again 20-50 rms.Deff going to need to get your electrical to sustain the needs as most newer vehicles seem to rob power from here and there to supply electrical needs,and or place just enough to meet basic requirements to pass QC.What speakers are you wanting to use up front?Stock? All Stock except the subs?

Appreciate it... I know this sounds "shallow" and possibly "uninformed" but I plan to use some Rockford Fosgate components up from in the $250-$300 range, I say shallow because I have no personal experience with there components, but... that's what the subs are, and they're bad dudes from back in the day when they were still made in USA, I held on to them so long they're nostalgic... but even more shallow, I just like the white mounting ring that says Rockford Fosgate" on the tweeter in the component set... I just like there logo, plan to put sticker on back window (I know that's a security risk too)... feel like even though I haven't heard them and there are probably better choices, they couldn't be too bad.

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[HardcoreBob]

Ive never liked stock HUs or systems to be honest.Im sure in the higher end of vehicles with Bose and others, they sound great and do well.Other than that..I feel more at home and find it a little less confusing and frustrating to rip all that out and start from scratch and seem to get better results in the end

I hear you man, but my HU is a feature rich premium Sony, large touch screen, navigation, blue tooth, climate control and all kinds of other stuff...

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[HardcoreBob]

Id run that amp on the subs only..They will prob only handle approx 3-500 rms in the correct enclosure/enclosures. Id pick up a two or 4 ch to run your front stage with a little better x over settings if running active.I have 3 of those type amps /smaller sitting if you want keep all PPI..Ive got two PC250s and one PC275,and two PPI additions blue and pretty clean..Special Editions A2050, and A2075..Straight old school clean amps.Be nice to run an EQ to be able to clean up any song/music at your fingertips..Thats me,rather than playing around going through the HU all the time.I like rear fill.Doesnt take much to keep those running clean and clear on about 40 rms and gives you that surround sound affect.Center stage is nice to have as well as long as its not over powering your front stage from the doors, again 20-50 rms.Deff going to need to get your electrical to sustain the needs as most newer vehicles seem to rob power from here and there to supply electrical needs,and or place just enough to meet basic requirements to pass QC.What speakers are you wanting to use up front?Stock? All Stock except the subs?

Appreciate reply... gonna run Rockford components in the $250-300 range...

I don't know how they perform, so I'm getting them for "shallow" reasons... my subs are Rockford, and I like the color of the mounting ring on the tweeter of the components I'm getting[emoji23]...

I've just always liked them by name recognition, think their logo is cool etc... I'm sure there are better choices, but figure they can't be too bad.

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