Audiopipe APSM-1500 Protection for a few seconds?

It's not the remote wire. I'm pretty certain it's a ground problem.
If it turns out being only that, I'll be ECSTATIC! I'll try to find a bolt on the frame that I can get too. Idk how i'm going to do it though without cutting a hole through the bottom of my trunk.

 

---------- Post added at 11:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:38 PM ----------

 

Just run the negative wire from the front to the back, ground issue solved.
What do you mean?

 
If it turns out being only that, I'll be ECSTATIC! I'll try to find a bolt on the frame that I can get too. Idk how i'm going to do it though without cutting a hole through the bottom of my trunk.you might have to. just use a grommet to run the wire through.

---------- Post added at 11:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:38 PM ----------

 

What do you mean?
he means a dedicated wire that is identical to your power wire. Except going from the amp's negative, to your batt's negative.

edit: i failed at replying there, lol... but you get the idea.

 
he means a dedicated wire that is identical to your power wire. Except going from the amp's negative, to your batt's negative.
edit: i failed at replying there, lol... but you get the idea.
So much I don't have a clue about.. I didn't know my amp had a negative lol.

So you think its more likely a ground issue, rather than my electrical can't handle it? I know misterdeadeye said as long as I upgraded the big 3 that I should be able to run it fine, everyone makes mistakes but I was hoping he is right, and still am hoping I guess lol.

 
So much I don't have a clue about.. I didn't know my amp had a negative lol.
So you think its more likely a ground issue, rather than my electrical can't handle it? I know misterdeadeye said as long as I upgraded the big 3 that I should be able to run it fine, everyone makes mistakes but I was hoping he is right, and still am hoping I guess lol.
he's correct. your electrical can support it. when you did your big three did you use ring terminals on your wires?

 
he's correct. your electrical can support it. when you did your big three did you use ring terminals on your wires?
When I'm testing with high volume and low notes, what should my voltage not drop below?

 
So much I don't have a clue about.. I didn't know my amp had a negative lol.
So you think its more likely a ground issue, rather than my electrical can't handle it? I know misterdeadeye said as long as I upgraded the big 3 that I should be able to run it fine, everyone makes mistakes but I was hoping he is right, and still am hoping I guess lol.
The negative on your amp is the ground.

The big 3 wont determine whether you can run that amp or not.

 
The negative on your amp is the ground. The big 3 wont determine whether you can run that amp or not.
Oh ok, that's good to know, but I don't have 20' left of wire to run it to the front of my car //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

big 3 helps I got told tho because it helps the current flow better and the wires don't get hot, so you don't lose power.

 
Oh ok, that's good to know, but I don't have 20' left of wire to run it to the front of my car //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif
big 3 helps I got told tho because it helps the current flow better and the wires don't get hot, so you don't lose power.
Exactly. Small wires = excess heat = voltage drop.

 
I learned something, woo //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
As for your problem, the ground seems like the likeliest candidate. You need to find a bolt attached to the frame(or as close as possible), and terminate with a ring terminal. Not terminating the wire and just trying to clamp it with the bolt results in much less surface to conduct the electricity. Plus you can have wires sticking out -- a fire hazard.

 
As for your problem, the ground seems like the likeliest candidate. You need to find a bolt attached to the frame(or as close as possible), and terminate with a ring terminal. Not terminating the wire and just trying to clamp it with the bolt results in much less surface to conduct the electricity. Plus you can have wires sticking out -- a fire hazard.
That's good to hear. Does it sounds more like my amp ground? I know the battery ground to the chassidy is a thin sheet of metal, but it's the stock one so I figured it'd be ok.

 
Things didn't go right at all. Our voltmeter is expensive and good, my dad uses it everyday so it's not bad. When HU was at 75%, and tone was playing with gain all the way down, we had .4 on AC. The max we got to with the gain all the way up was 6 volts. Which is BAD because we are suppose to have that with the gain all the way down. My dad and I are stumped tho, period! We are going to work on it tomorrow morning so I need all of your guys help asap please!

Here's how we wired the sub when it was plugged in.



We hooked the positive to the positive speaker terminal, and then the negative prong to the negative speaker terminal. Thing is, to get two ohms all of the 4 speaker terminals have to be filled with speaker wire, so would you have to put 4 prongs in all 4 terminal spots?



 
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